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Old 03-21-2018, 02:25 PM   #61
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And done.













How did you attach the shunt to the inside of the box without using screws that make contact with the trailer frame on the outside? I guess it might not need attached since the wires will keep it in place.


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Old 03-21-2018, 03:31 PM   #62
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Going to mount mine about the same as in the pics and secure them with a couple globs of silicone.
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Old 04-29-2018, 03:40 PM   #63
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Thank you for finding this great product.

I am trying to figure out where to install the panel meter on my 26bh, I was thinking of install it near the WFCO converter.

Can I place the shunt on the ground lead that runs to the battery? There is 12v already there to run the panel meter. All the circuits that would draw from the battery are fused at the WFCO converter.

This way I don’t have to run wires from that battery to the back of the trailer.

Thought?

Thanks

Paul
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Old 04-29-2018, 07:03 PM   #64
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. . . Can I place the shunt on the ground lead that runs to the battery? There is 12v already there to run the panel meter. All the circuits that would draw from the battery are fused at the WFCO converter . . .
FYI, not all 12 vdc circuits are typically routed through a trailer's (i.e., WFCO's) 12 vdc fuse panel. Higher current devices like electric stabilizer motors, electric tongue/landing gear jack motors, and slide motors, are sometimes routed directly to the battery, via a dedicated relay/re-settable fuse, bypassing the 12 vdc fuse panel.

If you're only concerned with measuring the current of devices that flow through the WFCO's 12 vdc fuse panel then placing the shunt as you suggested should work just fine.
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:45 AM   #65
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FYI, not all 12 vdc circuits are typically routed through a trailer's (i.e., WFCO's) 12 vdc fuse panel. Higher current devices like electric stabilizer motors, electric tongue/landing gear jack motors, and slide motors, are sometimes routed directly to the battery, via a dedicated relay/re-settable fuse, bypassing the 12 vdc fuse panel.

If you're only concerned with measuring the current of devices that flow through the WFCO's 12 vdc fuse panel then placing the shunt as you suggested should work just fine.
Thanks for the quick reply. the JayCo JayFlight 26bh is a simple layout (which is what we fell in love with) with no slides or electric stabilizers.

I looked over the wiring schematics, the only thing running straight from the battery are the tongue jack, which will run when plugged into my truck.

Paul
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:54 AM   #66
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I'm enjoying this thread for the ideas on the box. I already have everything to install it on hand but have been stumped on how to attach the shunt in my already crowded battery compartment. If you have ever shorted a battery to ground with a wrench or screwdriver you know my fear.

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Old 04-30-2018, 08:18 AM   #67
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How did you attach the shunt to the inside of the box without using screws that make contact with the trailer frame on the outside? I guess it might not need attached since the wires will keep it in place.


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Wires keep it in place and then box cover gets installed so it's not going anywhere. Plus the electrical box is the perfect size, it locks the shunt in where it can't twist.
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Old 05-01-2018, 04:00 PM   #68
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If you have ever shorted a battery to ground with a wrench or screwdriver you know my fear.

Been there, done that, almost melted a 1/2 inch Craftsman in two.
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Old 05-07-2018, 05:15 PM   #69
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Isn't the true measure of what's left in a battery the VOLTAGE?
Woulnd this conversion change over time as the battery ages?
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Old 03-11-2019, 09:29 PM   #70
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Here is the next generation of the Inexpensive Battery Monitor that I introduced 12/28/2015.

It uses a hall effect sensor opposed to a Shunt Resistor.

--

It seems to be a GREAT looking replacement, EXCEPT that the distance between the Hall Effect Sensor circuit and the COLOR display is about 6". This limits where you can mount the meter right out of the box. It would have to be next to the batteries.

--

If you can solder (small wire nuts could be an option) you can cut the ribbon cable between the Display and the Hall Effect sensor module and splice in a length of CAT5 cable. Now you can mount that new COLOR display any where.
Hi Don,

So I have read this thread a couple of times, thoroughly, when planning my shunt install. However, I just noticed that your OP shows the Hall sensor. I purchased one thinking I would try to install this to bypass the shunt business in hopes of making an easier ammeter install.

But all the followups to your OP are shunt-related. Did you have any success installing the Hall sensor? Did you try? Do you know anyone who did?

I am confusing by the proximity of the sensor ring to the display (splice in a CAT5, right?) and the power cords from the display (same?). It's all so tight, but with my batteries in boxes and my desire to not build a PVC box on my A-frame if possible, it seems that the Hall sensor could just be a losing battle. How do I mount it without exposing it to elements?
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:32 PM   #71
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Well, in a majority of cases you are correct. I saw an entirely different use for it. I wired up a circuit and connected it to my computer and used it as a tape-back-up tape system until I picked up a Colorado tape drive. DW thought I was nuts, saved my butt a few times.
That is wicked cool.
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