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Old 04-16-2013, 05:43 PM   #1
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Thinking of having 2nd AC unit installed

Many of us know that a single AC unit, even a 15 BTU unit doesn't cool our RV's they way we want them to. There is always warm places. In my case, it is my bunkhouse area. It has a slide on each side, so it is a good size area. Before I pay to have a second unit installed, I plan on trying the "diverter mod". If that works....great. All of our camping is done at Myrtle Beach, and the majority is in the summer. Hot temps, high humidity etc. Anyways, contacted 3 people in the area about adding the AC unit. First, the Jayco dealer where I purchased the TT from. He didn't seem to excited about doing it, and gave me a price of around $2000. Second is another, non jayco dealer at another campground. He said he could add a 13.5 BTU unit in the vent in the bunkhouse. Run the wires along the ceiling(and cover with some type of wire covering)and out the back to a box. He said he would install a breaker(not sure if inside or outside). Then from the box at the back, I would have a cord exactly like my present cord that I could plug into the pedestal. Cost he said was $1500-$1800. Not real happy about having a "box" at the back of the TT . The third person is a local guy who owns his own mobile RV repair service. I have used him in the past with my old TT. I always thought he was a little expensive, but as he told me once, I have only about 3 months to make my money. Alot of people at the CG use him. Anyways, he wants to install a 13.5 BTU unit in the vent, run the wires along the ceiling, covering them with wire mold, to the back of the TT, come down the back wall and go out. He too, is going to install a breaker box(but not sure where). Here's the part I like, but am not sure about. At the back of the TT, he is going to install a marine plug. He explained it as a plug that you plug your cord into and twist it on. After doing that you plug it into the pedestal. He said the plug was expensive, as is the special cord that it requires. But no box, just a covered plug, and I store the cord wherever I want. Cost he said, around $1500. Just curious as to any ones thoughts, comments, advice, etc on this. Thanks in advance
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:55 PM   #2
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I would double check with JAYCO to see if the ceiling will handle the weight. They usually reinforce the roof where the a/c units are going.

JMO.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:33 PM   #3
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A couple of years ago, I nearly had an electrical fire in my 2005 Jay Feather LGT.
(See Almost-had-an-electrical-fire!!)

As a result of and to help ensure it doesn't happen again, I rewired my AC in a manner that sounds rather similar to what the mobile repair guy suggested for your second unit.
I used a Marinco 20 amp power inlet and wired it into a new breaker I installed in the existing breaker box.
I bought 2 heavy 10 gauge extension cords, one a 25' and the other a 50'. I only use the 50' if the 25' doesn't reach, which hasn't happened yet. Generally speaking you always want to use the shortest cord possible. The longer the cord, the greater the resistance and voltage drop. A lot of voltage drop is very bad for an AC unit. On the other hand, using the largest gauge cord possible is a good thing.

If the mobile repair guy is competent and his quality of work is good, I don't see how his approach wouldn't work quite well. It sounds like the biggest issue is how to route the electric wiring up to the 2nd AC unit.

On edit: Did you look into the possibility that your 32TSBH has been pre-wired for a 2nd AC already??
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy View Post
I would double check with JAYCO to see if the ceiling will handle the weight. They usually reinforce the roof where the a/c units are going.

JMO.
Some units have available as an option a 2nd AC prep package. I ordered our new Eagle 284BHS with that option.

Its possible that the roof structure may be standard with the pre-wired electrical option just being pre-installed electrical items.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tail_gunner View Post
Some units have available as an option a 2nd AC prep package. I ordered our new Eagle 284BHS with that option.

Its possible that the roof structure may be standard with the pre-wired electrical option just being pre-installed electrical items.
That unit didn't have that option that is why I suggested that JAYCO be contacted. The upgrade was to a 15,000 in lieu of a 13,500
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy View Post
I would double check with JAYCO to see if the ceiling will handle the weight. They usually reinforce the roof where the a/c units are going.

JMO.
Thanks, I will do that. But, even if it isn't, the shops say the unit weighs 120 pounds. Since I walk on my roof, would 120 pounds really make a difference?
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:15 AM   #7
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Another lesson to those reading this thread: Adding a 2nd AC to a rv will never be cheaper than when you order it from the factory.

I know this will not help with the current problem.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:45 AM   #8
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That's surprising, as the 15k in our 32 TSBH keeps up just fine. But we don't have people going in and out a lot, and probably have more shade than you do. Have you ever considered adding slide Toomers to keep the direct sun off the slides?

I would avoid the extra cost and complexity of a second AC if at all possible, but that's just me.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:18 AM   #9
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I too plan to install a second AC unit in my 31.5FBHS in the bunk room. I priced with the Jayco dealer where I purchased the unit. $2500 was their estimate. They were going to convert to a 50amp cable, etc. That seemed a little high for the project.

My plan is to DIY it. After reading on several forums, I plan to install the unit, feed the wire to a cabnit then down and out the floor to a terminateing receiptical. I will then power the unit with a cord of it's own at the pedestal's 20amp plug. My thinking is, the pedestal is a "breaker box", why do I need a inline breaker box for the one unit?

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Old 04-17-2013, 12:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krackeer View Post
Thanks, I will do that. But, even if it isn't, the shops say the unit weighs 120 pounds. Since I walk on my roof, would 120 pounds really make a difference?
But you don't stand on the roof as it bounces down the road. I have seen units added to non reinforced openings that start to sag.
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