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02-26-2012, 05:02 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Landry
My manual says to not use a power drill to lower the stabilizer jacks. I have always been told that once the foot on the jack touches the pad, go one to one and a half turns more and stop. I havn't used the drill, but it may be hard to tell when the jack bottoms, especially with the power of an 18V drill. If I were going to use a power drill, I think I would run the jack almost to the ground then finish it by hand. JMO. I'm sure many people use drills without issue.
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I've been using a cordless drill to lower and raise the jacks on my trailer for it's entire 9+ year life. I have had no problems or issues with the jacks. I've done it a thousand times.
Once you use a drill, you will never go back to hand cranking.
Tips: - Make sure you get at least an 18V drill or higher.
- I recommend a spare battery, just in case your battery poops out at the wrong time.
- Get a drill with an adjustable torque setting so when the pad hits the ground it does not twist off in your hand. Trust me, if you don't have it set without torque slippage it will hurt when the pad hits the ground.
__________________
Russell
'13 Excel Winslow 34IKE
'12 GMC Sierra 3500HD
Previous RV's: '03 MobileScout Titan 29DBS; '01 Sunnybrook Lite 2708 SLE; '99 Coleman Utah
Previous TV's: '02 Chevy Suburban 2500 8.1 4.10; '99 Chevy Express 1500 5.7
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02-27-2012, 11:16 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 427
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I have an 18 volt impact tool which can also be used to remove lug nuts when necessary- Don't know how I ever got along without it-JMHO- Don
__________________
Fulltiming since July 1, 1999 currently with a 2005 GMC Sierra 3500 cc drw towing a 2007 Jayco Eagle 341RLQS
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02-27-2012, 11:22 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvrev2
My old Jayco uses a "J" hook instead of the 3/4 inch socket for the stabilizers. I haven't found a "J" hook adapter for my cordless drill yet, but I'm still looking.
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I have an old Ford pickup jack that utilized a "j" hook to operate- I had a welding shop install a bolt on the end so I can use the impact tool to raise and lower the jack- JMHO- Don
__________________
Fulltiming since July 1, 1999 currently with a 2005 GMC Sierra 3500 cc drw towing a 2007 Jayco Eagle 341RLQS
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02-27-2012, 08:19 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 213
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You guys are brilliant with the idea of using an allen wrench!!!!!!!!
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02-27-2012, 09:16 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvrev2
You guys are brilliant with the idea of using an allen wrench!!!!!!!!
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I'd like to claim I was the one that thought of it. I scabbed the idea off a forum 10 years ago.
__________________
Russell
'13 Excel Winslow 34IKE
'12 GMC Sierra 3500HD
Previous RV's: '03 MobileScout Titan 29DBS; '01 Sunnybrook Lite 2708 SLE; '99 Coleman Utah
Previous TV's: '02 Chevy Suburban 2500 8.1 4.10; '99 Chevy Express 1500 5.7
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02-28-2012, 10:18 AM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Donnie
I have an 18 volt impact tool which can also be used to remove lug nuts when necessary- Don't know how I ever got along without it-JMHO- Don
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x2
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02-28-2012, 03:07 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Central Ohio
Posts: 216
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I used my 18-volt impact driver one time. It did a nice job, but it was so loud everyone in the campground was watching. I went back to the 18-volt cordless drill. I love my impact driver, but not for this job. Driving a screw or bolt/nut yes, but not the stabilizer jacks on my camper.
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02-28-2012, 03:20 PM
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#28
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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True story, a friend of mine was using his drill on the stabilizers, his DW said something to him, distracted him, he looked at her and took his eyes off the job at hand. When the stabilizer was extended the drill came tight, turned out of his hand and the battery struck him in the chin. (ouch) I guess he had the torque setting way up. Lesson- DW`s, do not distract your DH while he is drilling the stabilizer!
__________________
2017 Coachmen Catalina 283RKS
2018 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.2l CCSB
2010 Jayflight 28BHS (sold)
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02-28-2012, 03:28 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Central Ohio
Posts: 216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabman
True story, a friend of mine was using his drill on the stabilizers, his DW said something to him, distracted him, he looked at her and took his eyes off the job at hand. When the stabilizer was extended the drill came tight, turned out of his hand and the battery struck him in the chin. (ouch) I guess he had the torque setting way up. Lesson- DW`s, do not distract your DH while he is drilling the stabilizer!
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Along those same lines, when we were building the deck on our old house, I had a socket on the drill (before I had the impact driver). Warned the F-I-L to be careful because it would get him. He didn't believe me, saying it is cordless, it can't have that much power. I said OK, next think I know, he is pinned up against the house because the bolt bit into the wood and he didn't let off the trigger.
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02-28-2012, 03:33 PM
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#30
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Virginia`s Eastern Shore
Posts: 17,093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwstewar
Along those same lines, when we were building the deck on our old house, I had a socket on the drill (before I had the impact driver). Warned the F-I-L to be careful because it would get him. He didn't believe me, saying it is cordless, it can't have that much power. I said OK, next think I know, he is pinned up against the house because the bolt bit into the wood and he didn't let off the trigger.
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Yeah, FIL`s always know better then SIL`s don`t they? I suspect he has a little more respect for those cordless drills now.
__________________
2017 Coachmen Catalina 283RKS
2018 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.2l CCSB
2010 Jayflight 28BHS (sold)
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03-10-2012, 07:15 AM
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#31
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 12
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Any ideas as to how to make the slotted drill adaptor. The c-jacks my friend has have a pin that comes out of each side of the screw. Any ideas?
Thank you.
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03-10-2012, 11:34 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capehank
Any ideas as to how to make the slotted drill adaptor. The c-jacks my friend has have a pin that comes out of each side of the screw. Any ideas?
Thank you.
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I just took a sawsall and cut a slot in an old socket... DONT use a thin wall socket
__________________
Seann
2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
145days /2023 2022/151 2021[/COLOR]
93/2020,157/2019219/2018 206/2017,215/2016, 211/2015, 196/14, 247/13, 193/12
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03-10-2012, 04:34 PM
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#33
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 12
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Seann45,
Thank you. I will be sure to use a thick socket.
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03-15-2012, 05:22 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 278
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Can't beat the electric jack for convenience.
Here is the tool I use:
__________________
2010 Dodge Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4
2011 Jayco Eagle Super Lite 30.5RLS
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03-15-2012, 06:26 PM
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#35
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvrev2
My old Jayco uses a "J" hook instead of the 3/4 inch socket for the stabilizers. I haven't found a "J" hook adapter for my cordless drill yet, but I'm still looking.
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Grab a rod heat it up bend it get the drill out and you have power jacks. My stabilizers are 3/4 socket. I just cut a ratchet extension and put it in my drill.
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03-16-2012, 11:49 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 148
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"power" jacks
I just bought a 18 volt 1/2 inch 400 lb torque Mastercraft drill for $89.00 including as and 2 batteries from Manards. I had a 18 volt but not enough torque, In the rain the drill is the way to go.
Buckeye jim
Eagle 322fks
Cummins Dodge
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04-01-2012, 06:15 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 320
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We have a 18V drill, with an adapter and a 3/4 inch socket. Does anyone suggest using an extender bar between the adapter and the socket? We have a 23J hybrid which we pick up two weeks from now.
__________________
2012 X23J
2011 Nissan Pathfinder
10 years till retirement than maybe full timers...the countdown begins
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04-01-2012, 07:56 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phar0e
We have a 18V drill, with an adapter and a 3/4 inch socket. Does anyone suggest using an extender bar between the adapter and the socket? We have a 23J hybrid which we pick up two weeks from now.
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I've found no need for an extender with my trailer jacks.
__________________
Russell
'13 Excel Winslow 34IKE
'12 GMC Sierra 3500HD
Previous RV's: '03 MobileScout Titan 29DBS; '01 Sunnybrook Lite 2708 SLE; '99 Coleman Utah
Previous TV's: '02 Chevy Suburban 2500 8.1 4.10; '99 Chevy Express 1500 5.7
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04-02-2012, 07:21 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Central Ohio
Posts: 216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drfife
I've found no need for an extender with my trailer jacks.
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me either. I do use a deep well socket though. Not sure if there was a reason, or if that is what Lowes had when I picked up the one I leave in the cubby.
__________________
Jim
1999 Silverado 1500 ECSB 4x4 5.3/3.73s
2009 Jayco 32BHDS
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04-02-2012, 05:40 PM
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#40
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 99
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rvrev2 - I used an allen wrench in my electric drill on the scissors jacks we used with our Scamp before getting the Jayco.
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