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Old 11-21-2017, 09:12 AM   #1
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Towing with F150 Eco boost

I am towing a Jayco 24 rbs weight being around 5600 lbs dry with a 2016 f150 with the 2.7 Eco boost engine. I have plenty of power so that is not the issue. I tend to get a fair amount of truck sway when towing. My brother in law has followed behind me and took a video. There is quite a bit of movement. My nephews work truck is a 3.5 ecoboost and says when towing a trailer he gets quite a bit of movement as well. His personal vehicle is a Tundra and tows a 30' Puma with no sway. Anyone else have the same issue when towing. I had truck and trailer weighed at scales and I'm under my tow capacity.
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Old 11-21-2017, 09:38 AM   #2
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I don't own a F150 so I won't be much help. But The one question I will ask that will help others assist you is. What is the payload capacity of your truck and what is the tongue weight of your trailer?

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Old 11-21-2017, 09:50 AM   #3
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We do not own a Ford either my buddy did own a similar truck. They added air ride, there complaint was tranny overheating.After 40000 mile they went back to a 1 ton Ford diesel.They were at the max on towing capacity for a fiver!
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Old 11-21-2017, 10:09 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil2008 View Post
I am towing a Jayco 24 rbs weight being around 5600 lbs dry with a 2016 f150 with the 2.7 Eco boost engine. I have plenty of power so that is not the issue. I tend to get a fair amount of truck sway when towing. My brother in law has followed behind me and took a video. There is quite a bit of movement. My nephews work truck is a 3.5 ecoboost and says when towing a trailer he gets quite a bit of movement as well. His personal vehicle is a Tundra and tows a 30' Puma with no sway. Anyone else have the same issue when towing. I had truck and trailer weighed at scales and I'm under my tow capacity.
If you use the search function for 'payload', you'll find a lot of info regarding 'payload' vs tow capacity and other helpful stuff.

Sway is dangerous and complex.
Things right off the top:
Do you have ~12% to 15% of the trailer loaded weight on your trailer tongue?
Are your trailer tanks empty?
What brand of weight distribution hitch to you have?
What kind of anti-sway device do you have with your hitch?
Are your trailer and tow vehicle tires inflated to the maximum shown on the tire sidewalls?
Do you carry anything on the rear of the trailer?
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Old 11-21-2017, 10:11 AM   #5
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Here is what I've learned from experience. I have a 2016 F-150 Lariat with the 5.0. My truck has the tow package which includes sway control.

I found if you use a WD hitch with a sway bar AND the truck's sway control, you will get a lot of sway. Explanation from both a Camping World tech I trust and the service manager at my Ford dealer (who has had the same problem) is this:

The sway bar and the truck will be working against each other. When the trailer starts to sway and the bar works against, the truck is applying a rear brake to try to stop the sway. This basically forces the trailer to go the other way and so on. It may sound counter intuitive but the truck is trying to correct the sway by applying one rear brake (or the other) at a time, and the bar is trying to resist the sway and the whole thing overcorrects.

The fix for this is easy. Go into the towing setup on the dash and turn off the truck's sway control. Got that from both the CW tech and my dealer's service manager. It does really help. I've explained to other F-150 owners with the same issue and every one of them said it helps settle things down.

I haven't tried to tow with no sway bar and using the truck sway control mainly to save wear on the rear brakes, and I'm old school (sway bar). I'm sure the truck's sway control would work great for boats, lighter trailers, etc.

Now if I can just figure out how to get the Blind Spot Warning System to work with the trailer hooked up. It would be great to have some blind spot coverage while towing.
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Old 11-21-2017, 10:29 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by ifallsguy View Post
Here is what I've learned from experience. I have a 2016 F-150 Lariat with the 5.0. My truck has the tow package which includes sway control.

I found if you use a WD hitch with a sway bar AND the truck's sway control, you will get a lot of sway. Explanation from both a Camping World tech I trust and the service manager at my Ford dealer (who has had the same problem) is this:

The sway bar and the truck will be working against each other. When the trailer starts to sway and the bar works against, the truck is applying a rear brake to try to stop the sway. This basically forces the trailer to go the other way and so on. It may sound counter intuitive but the truck is trying to correct the sway by applying one rear brake (or the other) at a time, and the bar is trying to resist the sway and the whole thing overcorrects.

The fix for this is easy. Go into the towing setup on the dash and turn off the truck's sway control. Got that from both the CW tech and my dealer's service manager. It does really help. I've explained to other F-150 owners with the same issue and every one of them said it helps settle things down.

I haven't tried to tow with no sway bar and using the truck sway control mainly to save wear on the rear brakes, and I'm old school (sway bar). I'm sure the truck's sway control would work great for boats, lighter trailers, etc.

Now if I can just figure out how to get the Blind Spot Warning System to work with the trailer hooked up. It would be great to have some blind spot coverage while towing.

I don't want to take this thread off topic for the OP, but you brought up an interesting point for an issue that I am having. As I have commented on in another thread, I have a 2015 Mercedes Benz Sprinter 2500 passenger van that is extremely nervous in the wind while towing. It isn't my primary tow vehicle but I have used it to pull my travel trailer several times. Any gust of wind makes that thing dance around (I wouldn't call it sway as much as a shudder) much more than I would like.

Thinking about it now that you mentioned it, that van has both electronic sway control and crosswind assist. I wounder if some of what I am feeling is what you have described above.....the electronic nanny systems working against the mechanical sway control in the hitch.

I'm going to have to look in to this more. Thanks for the thought.
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Old 11-21-2017, 07:09 PM   #7
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I have a 2014 F150 XLT SCAB w/ Max Tow and HDPP and sway control. It has 4x4 and 8' box. I have never had any sway action. My previous trailer was 24' long, and my current 23RB is 27' long.

Maybe it's due to the heavier steel body? Or long wheel base, 163"?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ifallsguy View Post
Here is what I've learned from experience. I have a 2016 F-150 Lariat with the 5.0. My truck has the tow package which includes sway control.

I found if you use a WD hitch with a sway bar AND the truck's sway control, you will get a lot of sway. Explanation from both a Camping World tech I trust and the service manager at my Ford dealer (who has had the same problem) is this:

The sway bar and the truck will be working against each other. When the trailer starts to sway and the bar works against, the truck is applying a rear brake to try to stop the sway. This basically forces the trailer to go the other way and so on. It may sound counter intuitive but the truck is trying to correct the sway by applying one rear brake (or the other) at a time, and the bar is trying to resist the sway and the whole thing overcorrects.

The fix for this is easy. Go into the towing setup on the dash and turn off the truck's sway control. Got that from both the CW tech and my dealer's service manager. It does really help. I've explained to other F-150 owners with the same issue and every one of them said it helps settle things down.

I haven't tried to tow with no sway bar and using the truck sway control mainly to save wear on the rear brakes, and I'm old school (sway bar). I'm sure the truck's sway control would work great for boats, lighter trailers, etc.

Now if I can just figure out how to get the Blind Spot Warning System to work with the trailer hooked up. It would be great to have some blind spot coverage while towing.
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Old 11-21-2017, 09:18 PM   #8
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Go to the F150forum.com

This is being extensively discussed there in the towing section.

It basically comes down to a combination of the proper weight, proper WDH and having just the right amount of weight distributed. The new trucks are very sensitive to sway if they aren't dialled in just right.
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Old 11-21-2017, 10:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Go to the F150forum.com

This is being extensively discussed there in the towing section.

It basically comes down to a combination of the proper weight, proper WDH and having just the right amount of weight distributed. The new trucks are very sensitive to sway if they aren't dialled in just right.

What you say is true, but having 2 different sway controls is never a good idea. Especially when one is electronic and it's trying to counter the mechanical sway control. My experience is with an add on sway bar. A WDH with built in sway may be different but I don't think it would be.

My WDH is set up correctly, tire pressures are where they are supposed to be and hitch is approximately 12%. Sway cut way back when the trucks controller is turned off.
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Old 11-22-2017, 01:47 AM   #10
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Weight, Balance, Loading

Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlee View Post
I have a 2014 F150 XLT SCAB w/ Max Tow and HDPP and sway control. It has 4x4 and 8' box. I have never had any sway action. My previous trailer was 24' long, and my current 23RB is 27' long.

Maybe it's due to the heavier steel body? Or long wheel base, 163"?
Atlee you bring up a very valid point, the wheelbase of the tow vehicle is a major factor in sway & trailer control. A long wheelbase will ALWAYS tow better than a shorter one. It's the laws of physics & levers and such.

Just because your weight ticket shows you're below trailer carry capacity, it doesn't mean it's balanced properly. USUALLY, you want about 55-60/40 loading bias, nose heavy. Once you check your tongue weight, you can better figure out how to distribute your belongings inside the trailer. I've added fresh water to our water tank and have noticed that it settled the sway down considerably.

You can see what truck I pull our 264BHW with, and it has a gross weight of 6500#. Most of the time our weight tickets show about 62-6300 pounds on the truck, and about 53-5400 on the trailer axle. I'm figuring we are at about 5500 pounds of loaded trailer weight.

Looking at what ifallsguy says, I would agree with the fact that a mechanical & electronic system would counteract each other. I've never used our WDH, a Reese Pro Series, without the electronic system on the truck. In just a couple short trips around town, knowing I'd have to do some backing up, I left the friction sway bar off the trailer. With ALL the tanks full, it handled better than I expected. Only twice has the electronic control on the truck engaged, and it was with an empty trailer coming home from the repair shop.

I have yet to pull our trailer without the truck sway control activated. With that said, it might be a moot point. Our trailer has some roof damage, and just depending what happens, we may not get our trailer back. If that's the case, I guess we'll have to go through this whole process again with a new trailer.
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