Trailer brakes not working

[Sandybar]

Traveling to Alaska and the Chevy trailer screen says trailer brake has a bad connection I suspect it’s in the trailer plug side. My Jayco plug looks to be sealed , enclosed and looking to take it apart. Is there a way to take it apart to look for bad connection or do I need to cut wire snd re wire a new plug?

Thanks in advance

[Gary207]

Two ways to check 1 take the junction box apart find the trailer brake wire should be blue disconnect it and find the the pin in the trailer plug check with a meter see if there is continuity # 2 find the pin on the truck for the electric brake take like a big paper clip hook a wire to it and tie it into the brake wire in the junction box hit the brake pedal and see if the problem clears up.

[Sandybar]

Thanks, the junction box should be under trailer? New to me

[Gary207]

Should be right in front behind the propane tanks and battery on the frame.

[Sandybar]

Ok found the junction box. Looks like I have continuity from trailer plug to junction box. When I was traveling the Chevy trailer monitor was intermittent off and then back on. Like every minute or so. Does this sound like a bad connection in the trailer plug?

[RogerR]

Had the same warning on my trailer and lights, brakes, etc. all seemed to work. Try the brakes on some gravel to see if both are working. Odds are you have corrosion or a broken wire. Mine were just kind of hanging there near the brakes and I did some tucking and anchoring to make sure the odd rock, branch or blown tire carcass did not rip them off.

Also, inspect and clean with fine sandpaper both sides of the brake connection. A little corrosion there will reduce or stop the connection.

[Sandybar]

Rodger thanks for your reply. I suspect it is the trailer plug. I have replaced numerous trailer plugs inland this plug looks to be sealed and not any screws to hold it together. Is there anyway to take it apart?

[RogerR]

I would just wack it off if you have enough slack to connect a new one.
I clean the holes out with fine grit sandpaper strips rolled up to make a stick that I can run in and out and twisted in circles like cleaning a gun barrel. Then I use brake cleaner to flush out any debris. Has worked several times over the years.

[JFlightRisk]

The brake wire may go through the inside of your axles to the opposite side brakes. The insulation may have abraded in there and is shorting out when you step on the brakes. There also might be a bad connection at one or more of the backing plates. Just a couple of ideas.

[travelingjw]

I would suggest you spray some electrical contact cleaner onto all electrical connections, then plug and unplug a few times. Then you can do what everyone suggests above if that doesn't work. It may be as simple as you got so dirt or mud on one of the contacts.

[bill777x]

Originally Posted by travelingjw

I would suggest you spray some electrical contact cleaner onto all electrical connections, then plug and unplug a few times. Then you can do what everyone suggests above if that doesn't work. It may be as simple as you got so dirt or mud on one of the contacts.

This^^^^^ plus it may be as simple as using a zip tie around the plug and flap so nothing can wiggle. Had the same issue multiple times on my 2015 Chevy 2500 (known issue) and the zip tie cured it. Dealer said to replace the trailer plug which I wasn't about to do since it was 6 months old when the problem started. I zip tie my plug every trip and I've never had the disconnect error again in 4 years.

[Sandybar]

Bill777, what did you zip tie your wire to?

[bill777x]

Just put it around the plug and the flap on your bumper once you're plugged in. It makes it where the trailer plug can't move at all when you're moving. The Chevy brake controller is always monitoring the connection and it doesn't take much to make it think there's a problem. Mine would always mess up within 30 min of getting on the road, no brakes but all the lights (brake and clearance) would still work. Once I made the connection secure the "ding ding ding" from the controller never happened again. Chevrolet will tell you to change the trailer plug to the same brand as their plug in on the bumper. Up to you but my "fix" worked for me.

You should also use contact cleaner as suggested to be sure both sides of the connection are good. Good luck!

[Sandybar]

Ok thanks for all reply’s and suggestions. Checked and did all above but still not working. Chevy gives me the “Check Traler Wiring” followed by the ding ding ding chime about every 3 minutes. I think it may be a Chevy issue and hopefully I can get it diagnosed before trip back home from Alaska.

[Jagiven]

One thing to try when your system says if is not working, and you are stopped in a CG, rest area. Pull the E-brake cord, and engage the brakes. Then try to pull forwards. Does the TT brakes hold you in place. It they do, the issue should not be the physical brakes, or the wiring to the brakes. It still could be a wire connection at the junction box, the 7 pin connection, or it could be the Chevy system acting up. I have a friend with a Ford, and he had to have his Ford brake controller replaced.

One more thing to consider, look in your Chevy manual at the fuses and relays. Pull out the braking related items, check the contacts, and re install.

[Sandybar]

Thanks I’ll look at the fuses next I even messaged Chevy too. We will see what happens

[Scott]

I just had a similar problem on my truck and trailer. It turned out to be the ground wires were corroded under the wire nut. Took off the nut, cut the wire back to fresh wire, and reinstalled the nut. Problem solved.

[TaftCoach]

Originally Posted by travelingjw

I would suggest you spray some electrical contact cleaner onto all electrical connections, then plug and unplug a few times. Then you can do what everyone suggests above if that doesn't work. It may be as simple as you got so dirt or mud on one of the contacts.

Exactly what I was thinking. Do the simplest step first. I actually do this as actual maintenance.

Years before the Internet I had a boat trailer that when I used my meter the truck tested fine. I could plug my boat into someone else's truck and the boat worked fine. Again I tested the truck side and there was current.

The fifth repair place I went to was literally an open air place in Reynosa, Mexico with an old dog sleeping under a tree. I was told that the old guy there could fix anything. His English wasn't too good but after I explained what was happening he laughed, said "four places? I hope they didn't charge you". Took a swig of his coke, spit it into the socket, pushed the plug in a couple times, and it worked. He told me to go buy some real contact cleaner and see him when I had a real repair problem. Lol. He wouldn't charge me so I bought him a six pack of coke.

Turns out the probe would scratch through the corrosion enough to have continuity. Life lesson in electronics and how to run a business. I was a loyal customer after that.

[Sandybar]

Question for you? Still getting the check wiring warning. I thought I checked everything but still get warning. My next step would be to change wiring through axles. I can’t quite figure out to take apart the block looking wiring nut on the passenger side trailer. Did a search but did not get results I was looking for.

Thanks

[Sandybar]

How do you get these apart?