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07-31-2014, 04:08 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 24
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Trailer Safety Chains
Hi all,
I just bought a 2010 F150 and the safety chains from my trailer are too short to hook up to the hitch receiver. I've been looking around at RV shops in town, but no one has anything long enough. I measured the current chains at 64" total, I'm thinking I could get away with about 70" or so. The RV dealer I went to said I could just buy some chain at Home Depot and make my own, but which hooks would I use to attach them to the truck? Have any of you had to replace your chains, if so, which route did you go?
Thanks in advance,
Brian
__________________
2013 X23B
2010 F150 XLT Supercrew 4X4
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07-31-2014, 04:35 PM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central
Posts: 17
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07-31-2014, 04:40 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Central California
Posts: 2,283
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^ so do I. Although I think mine are 3/8.
When first doing this I was thinking I need threaded quick links that had a SWL rating equal to 1/4 the TT GVWR -- then I realized all theses would ever be asked to support was the TT tongue weight which is ~1000lbs for me so the ~2500 LB SWL on the 3/8 was more than enough.
__________________
2020 Ram 1500 5.7L
2007 Chevy Duramax LMM/Allison (Sold)
2012 Jay Flight 29QBH (Sold)
2012 Jay Flight 26BH (Sold)
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07-31-2014, 04:53 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 24
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Thanks for the responses, I have an x23b with a GVWR of 5000 lbs and the chain installed on there now is rated for 5200 lbs. I'm thinking I can just buy some chain and use those quick links you linked to above. I saw some chain at lowes rated for 5400 lbs. not sure what the quick links are rated for though. I also noticed the chain is just screwed into the tongue, but the screws don't go all the way through the tongue. Makes me wonder what those screws are rated at and that would probably be the weak point if the trailer came unhitched during travel. Any opinions on that?
Thanks again,
B
__________________
2013 X23B
2010 F150 XLT Supercrew 4X4
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07-31-2014, 05:29 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Central California
Posts: 2,283
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Do you even need to change the chain? If a quick link on each side is long enough then just go with that -- that is what I did.
__________________
2020 Ram 1500 5.7L
2007 Chevy Duramax LMM/Allison (Sold)
2012 Jay Flight 29QBH (Sold)
2012 Jay Flight 26BH (Sold)
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07-31-2014, 06:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
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I used clevis type slip hooks with a safety latch...purchased at Menards for about $6 each. My OEM chains were too short for my F150 also so I bought 6 or 7 feet of 5/16" proof coil chain from TSC and made a new one. Find the center link and run a sturdy bolt through it into the A frame behind the tongue jack, put your 2 hooks on and done. I even put the breakaway cable through a few links so it runs right up to the hook.
__________________
2006 23B Hybrid with 10k round bar WDH
2011 F150 4x4 SCREW Ecoboost, Max Tow, Integrated TBC, 3.73 LS axle, Firestone Ride Rite airbags.
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07-31-2014, 10:40 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 24
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Well, looks like I'll be headed to the hardware store this weekend. I saw those clevis hooks there so I'll pick up some of those and some chain. Thanks for the help and the confidence to do it myself.
B
__________________
2013 X23B
2010 F150 XLT Supercrew 4X4
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08-01-2014, 07:29 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Saskatoon Sask Canada
Posts: 10,714
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I went with grade 8 chain and hooks on the end. Added 10" now I can double X the chain with ease.
__________________
Seann
2004 Chev Silverado Duramax optioned past the max. 2009 Jayco Eagle 308 RLS 900watts of solar, Lithium batteries (400amp hour), 2000 watt (4000 surge) whole house inverter.
145days boondockinig in2023 2022/151 2021[/COLOR]
93/2020,157/2019219/2018 206/2017,215/2016, 211/2015, 196/14, 247/13, 193/12
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08-01-2014, 01:23 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Bremerton
Posts: 342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcfarmall
SNIP.... I even put the breakaway cable through a few links so it runs right up to the hook.
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Not fond of that idea. there should be no interference or "weak link" when attaching the brake-away cable. I don't even like attaching it to the same safety chain hole on my TV receiver, less that hole tear out during an accident preventing brake actuation. unfortunatly I have limited attachment points on the hitch or bumper.
which reminds me, I should test mine tonight to see if it works. put a screwdrive through the loop and give it a tug.
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08-01-2014, 02:00 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sparta, TN
Posts: 1,174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjpolsin
Not fond of that idea. there should be no interference or "weak link" when attaching the brake-away cable. I don't even like attaching it to the same safety chain hole on my TV receiver, less that hole tear out during an accident preventing brake actuation. unfortunatly I have limited attachment points on the hitch or bumper.
which reminds me, I should test mine tonight to see if it works. put a screwdrive through the loop and give it a tug.
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X2. The break away cable should be completely independent of the entire rest of the hitch system and should be attached to the frame of the TV.
__________________
Chuck - Sparta, TN
2012 Jay Flight 22FB, 2 x Honda EU2000i
2013 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD
EDUCATION is what you get when you read the fine print.....
EXPERIENCE is what you get when you don't.
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08-01-2014, 03:19 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Vail
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjpolsin
Not fond of that idea. there should be no interference or "weak link" when attaching the brake-away cable. I don't even like attaching it to the same safety chain hole on my TV receiver, less that hole tear out during an accident preventing brake actuation. unfortunatly I have limited attachment points on the hitch or bumper.
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X3
Both times I've purchased a trailer from a dealer, the dealer attached the breakaway cable directly to the chain. They told me "this is how I've always seen it done".
That's the first thing I fix when I get away from the dealer.
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08-01-2014, 03:28 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sparta, TN
Posts: 1,174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slinger
X3
Both times I've purchased a trailer from a dealer, the dealer attached the breakaway cable directly to the chain. They told me "this is how I've always seen it done".
That's the first thing I fix when I get away from the dealer.
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Why is it so many "dealers" (not all) are so lacking in procedures and their product knowledge?
I have experienced this with dealers as well. You learn quickly to take anything they tell you with a grain of salt. Do your own research.
I had one tell me to be sure and turn off the antenna amplifier (yes, you should) because it drew 10 amps and would kill the battery in a couple of hours. His knowledge from that point on carried little meaning.
__________________
Chuck - Sparta, TN
2012 Jay Flight 22FB, 2 x Honda EU2000i
2013 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD
EDUCATION is what you get when you read the fine print.....
EXPERIENCE is what you get when you don't.
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08-02-2014, 05:48 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Louisville Area
Posts: 408
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The chains on my 23mbh were just a little short. Luckily a bought two 10,000 lbs snap links that screw closed. That gave me the extension I needed. I just leave them attached the truck all the time. Of course they might eventually get fused together so removing might be impractical but I will worry about that when I upgrade trailer and truck
My dealer also did some strange stuff with the safety cable. I took control and hooked it up the the frame and a smaller snap link. From now on I hook up the safety chains and breakaway cable who I take it to the dealer
__________________
John
2017 F-250 Lariat FX-4
2016 Whitehawk 27DSRL
Equalizer WDH with 10k bars
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