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Old 07-31-2014, 05:08 PM   #1
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Trailer Safety Chains

Hi all,
I just bought a 2010 F150 and the safety chains from my trailer are too short to hook up to the hitch receiver. I've been looking around at RV shops in town, but no one has anything long enough. I measured the current chains at 64" total, I'm thinking I could get away with about 70" or so. The RV dealer I went to said I could just buy some chain at Home Depot and make my own, but which hooks would I use to attach them to the truck? Have any of you had to replace your chains, if so, which route did you go?

Thanks in advance,
Brian
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:35 PM   #2
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I use these:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/National-...K-ZN/204606891

Dave
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:40 PM   #3
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^ so do I. Although I think mine are 3/8.

When first doing this I was thinking I need threaded quick links that had a SWL rating equal to 1/4 the TT GVWR -- then I realized all theses would ever be asked to support was the TT tongue weight which is ~1000lbs for me so the ~2500 LB SWL on the 3/8 was more than enough.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:53 PM   #4
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Thanks for the responses, I have an x23b with a GVWR of 5000 lbs and the chain installed on there now is rated for 5200 lbs. I'm thinking I can just buy some chain and use those quick links you linked to above. I saw some chain at lowes rated for 5400 lbs. not sure what the quick links are rated for though. I also noticed the chain is just screwed into the tongue, but the screws don't go all the way through the tongue. Makes me wonder what those screws are rated at and that would probably be the weak point if the trailer came unhitched during travel. Any opinions on that?

Thanks again,
B
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:29 PM   #5
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Do you even need to change the chain? If a quick link on each side is long enough then just go with that -- that is what I did.
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:03 PM   #6
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I used clevis type slip hooks with a safety latch...purchased at Menards for about $6 each. My OEM chains were too short for my F150 also so I bought 6 or 7 feet of 5/16" proof coil chain from TSC and made a new one. Find the center link and run a sturdy bolt through it into the A frame behind the tongue jack, put your 2 hooks on and done. I even put the breakaway cable through a few links so it runs right up to the hook.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:40 PM   #7
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Well, looks like I'll be headed to the hardware store this weekend. I saw those clevis hooks there so I'll pick up some of those and some chain. Thanks for the help and the confidence to do it myself.

B
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:29 AM   #8
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I went with grade 8 chain and hooks on the end. Added 10" now I can double X the chain with ease.
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Old 08-01-2014, 02:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcfarmall View Post
SNIP.... I even put the breakaway cable through a few links so it runs right up to the hook.
Not fond of that idea. there should be no interference or "weak link" when attaching the brake-away cable. I don't even like attaching it to the same safety chain hole on my TV receiver, less that hole tear out during an accident preventing brake actuation. unfortunatly I have limited attachment points on the hitch or bumper.

which reminds me, I should test mine tonight to see if it works. put a screwdrive through the loop and give it a tug.
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Old 08-01-2014, 03:00 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by tjpolsin View Post
Not fond of that idea. there should be no interference or "weak link" when attaching the brake-away cable. I don't even like attaching it to the same safety chain hole on my TV receiver, less that hole tear out during an accident preventing brake actuation. unfortunatly I have limited attachment points on the hitch or bumper.

which reminds me, I should test mine tonight to see if it works. put a screwdrive through the loop and give it a tug.
X2. The break away cable should be completely independent of the entire rest of the hitch system and should be attached to the frame of the TV.
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