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Old 07-26-2021, 08:13 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Chico
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Smile Trim edge separation, inside wall exposure on my 2019 Jayco White Hawk 27 R

Hi friends, I need some help identifying the cause and repair solution for this problem.

On the front end of this trailer on the driver side, I recently discovered a 1/8" to 1/4" separation between the Trim Edge rubber seal and the driver’s side fiberglass wall. The separation exposure runs for about 6', this leaves the inside of the wall edge exposed. In my uploaded pictures, I have attempted to show what I am poorly describing. I am a 2nd owner on this rig. I have had this RV for about a month now. My neighbor was the one that noticed this exposed gap area.

My biggest concern is water getting inside and starting a delamination process. Do not want this!! I am hopping others here on the forum may have seen this before? Thoughts?
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Old 07-26-2021, 08:24 PM   #2
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Trim edge separation, inside wall exposure on my 2019 Jayco White Hawk 27 RB

Hi friends, I need some help identifying the cause and repair solution for this problem.

On the front end of this trailer on the driver side, I recently discovered a 1/8" to 1/4" separation between the Trim Edge rubber seal and the driver’s side fiberglass wall. The separation exposure runs for about 6', this leaves the inside of the wall edge exposed. In my uploaded pictures, I have attempted to show what I am poorly describing. I am a 2nd owner on this rig. I have had this RV for about a month now. My neighbor was the one that noticed this exposed gap area.

My biggest concern is water getting inside and starting a delamination process. Do not want this!! I am hopping others here on the forum may have seen this before? Thoughts?
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Old 07-26-2021, 09:40 PM   #3
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I think is very common, as I have seen it on numerous travel trailers. In fact, I see it on mine as well. This area is sealed by putty, that is what you see squishing out.

I can only thing of two ways to fix this:
1) Run a bead of caulk (NOT silicon caulk!) along the entire length of the seam. This is probably not the best way to deal with it.

2) Remove the trim, remove all the putty, apply new putty or perhaps Eternabond and reattach the trim. I would say this is right way to fix it.

I am getting to do this myself and will be interested to see what others think.
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Old 07-27-2021, 11:14 AM   #4
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Must be the year for this. Here's how I did my 2017 WhiteHawk.
Tools and supplies needed: plastic scraper, finger, denatured alcohol, Lexel (white if you can order online or find locally), 1/2" painter tape, mineral spirits.
1.With a plastic scraper or plastic putty knife scrape the existing material from the face of the gelcoat. It's not necessary to cut it out from under the trim.
2.Using the alcohol, clean the gel and trim.
3. Tape the trim up to it's edge so as to completely cover the black. Burnish the tape edge with your plastic tool.
4. Tape the gelcoat with a 3/16" gap between the tape and the trim edge. Burnish.
5. Cut the Lexel tip near it's 1/4" bead line on a slight angle. Puncture.
6. Apply top to bottom. Your looking for a fairly flat application that fits the width of the gap nicely. Don't fret the "uh oh, too much came out" situation. It's fixed in the next step.
7. Pour an ounce or two of mineral spirits into a spray can cap. Dip your finger into the spirits to have a good wet tip and again, from the top drag very lightly over the bead to smooth and flatten. Don't be afraid to stop at the on third mark and rewet your finger before continuing.

Wait about 5 minutes and carefully pull the tape off the trim first, at an angle away from the bead. Do the second tape strip next. Leave it alone. Don't try to make it any more perfect than it already is. You're waterproofing and sealing a seam, not making a masterpiece.

Move on to the other side.. It will probably come out better if you've never done this before. It's like working on the disk brakes on your truck...you learn on the first side and take 1/3 the time to do the other.
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