Water heater

[PaulB12]

New problem...water too hot!!!
I see there is no temp adjustment ().
I've researched that there is a possibility of a different t-stat control. There is also a thermistor for high temp limit, maybe?
The thermistor is plug and play due to the electrical fittings I'm seeing.
Is it possible to get a thermistor that has a lower value for water temp??
I have a Domestic.
The high water temp is causing leaks!! Nothing on the cold water side.
Any ideas??????
Thanks
PaulB12

[Jagiven]

These water heaters are HOT. No factory adjustment. You can buy an adjustable thermostat for most models.

Where is it leaking? I suspect from your pressure relief valve? Mine is set to relief pressure at 75 psi. If it is leaking I suspect it is doing its job.

Are you connected to the CG city water supply? If so, what is the CG's water pressure? Are you using a pressure regulator on your hose? I suspect you do not have a pressure regulator, and the CG water pressure is really high. When you heat the water, it expands and is causing the pressure relief to do its job. If I am correct you need to lower that inbound water pressure. Ideally under 45 psi. Unfortunately just turning the hose bib down, does not reduce the static water pressure, just restricts the flow.


This might help, create a bubble of air inside the water heater. Turn off the water source, open a hot water valve, to drop your water pressure. Flip the pressure relief valve open (be careful of that hot water) and introduce some air into the top of the tank. This might help, air is comprisable, and water is not.

Long term solution, add a pressure regulator to your city water connection.

What year and model is our camper?

[Grumpy]

Also if you want the temp lower at the faucet crack the center winterizing valve and that will mix a little cold in.

[PaulB12]

Jagiven:
From hot water fittings,nothing from cold.
I have pressure regulator, set about 45-50 psi

Grumpy:
I'll have to try that idea, of mixing some cold on the way to exits.

I will see if they make an adjustable t-stst for my unit.

PaulB12

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by PaulB12

Jagiven:
From hot water fittings,nothing from cold.
I have pressure regulator, set about 45-50 psi

I will see if they make an adjustable t-stst for my unit.

PaulB12

If it is from the fittings, the installer did not do a good job crimping them. I suspect they have one person doing the hot, and another doing the cold.

Here is the tool you need. I bought mine from HD 2-3 years ago for about $12, this one is $20.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-8...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Try googling: "rv water heater adjustable thermostat" There are a number of them out there. I just crack open my water heater bypass valve.

[PaulB12]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

If it is from the fittings, the installer did not do a good job crimping them. I suspect they have one person doing the hot, and another doing the cold.

Here is the tool you need. I bought mine from HD 2-3 years ago for about $12, this one is $20.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-8...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Try googling: "rv water heater adjustable thermostat" There are a number of them out there. I just crack open my water heater bypass valve.

Not leaking from the pex clamps, from the threaded fittings.
Grumpy suggested cracking the by pass, I'll try that while looking for adjustable t-stat.
PaulB12

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by PaulB12

Not leaking from the pex clamps, from the threaded fittings.
Grumpy suggested cracking the by pass, I'll try that while looking for adjustable t-stat.
PaulB12

There are not many threaded fittings in the system, can you be specific about which one(s). I have had a few that leaked over the years.

The common leak most people have is between a faucet and the rigid pex. Pain to get to, a Basin Wrench makes it easier to access. There is a rubber gasket in these fittings, may not be snugged up enough or was not fully seated when originally installed.

Less common, on the backside of the water heater is a short pipe nipple between the water heater and pex piping. For me it was the cold water inlet. just a small weep, started maybe year 4. I just snugged it up (1/8-1/4 turn). Worked fine for that year. Following year, it was weeping again. Pulled it all apart, applied new Teflon tape and pipe dope, and re installed. Has not leaked since. I suspect not enough tape was originally applied.

One thing to remember, as we travel from destination to destination these campers are experiencing a rolling earth quake, constant vibrations. Things that were tight on the last trip, may have loosed due to vibrations on this trip.

[PaulB12]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

There are not many threaded fittings in the system, can you be specific about which one(s). I have had a few that leaked over the years.

The common leak most people have is between a faucet and the rigid pex. Pain to get to, a Basin Wrench makes it easier to access. There is a rubber gasket in these fittings, may not be snugged up enough or was not fully seated when originally installed.

Less common, on the backside of the water heater is a short pipe nipple between the water heater and pex piping. For me it was the cold water inlet. just a small weep, started maybe year 4. I just snugged it up (1/8-1/4 turn). Worked fine for that year. Following year, it was weeping again. Pulled it all apart, applied new Teflon tape and pipe dope, and re installed. Has not leaked since. I suspect not enough tape was originally applied.

One thing to remember, as we travel from destination to destination these campers are experiencing a rolling earth quake, constant vibrations. Things that were tight on the last trip, may have loosed due to vibrations on this trip.

Jagiven I'm on my 5th tt in over 30+ years and this is the first time I have had plumbing water issues. I know,, knock on wood. More aggravating that its only on the hot water side and is/was sporadic. I think I finally got it solved.
A combo of maybe loose threaded fittings and too hot water coming from water heater, not the pex. I re-snugged fittings and I am searching for an adjustable t-stat.
I'm open to the idea of cracking the by-pass valve. I know each case is different, but about how much is needed, 1/8,1/4 ?
I'm in the process of taking the temp of my hot water, I'll get back with the results.
PaulB12

[PaulB12]

Just tested water temp:
Kitchen sink, furthest from heater: 135°
Bath sink, 3' from heater:142°
Way too hot in my mind. Now I know one mixes with cold to temper. But the lines and fittings are getting the full brunt of that heat!!
PaulB12

[Jagiven]

RV water heater temp is HOT, but lowering the temp will not fix the leaking issue.

How much to crack open the bypass valve? It really is hard to say, lot depends on your incoming water temperature. I would start with a 1/4 turn. If it is to cool, back it off, to warm open it up. I put a sharpie mark across mine just as a reference line. In the early spring and fall, I need to close the valve a bit as my inbound (FW tank) water temp can be below 40 degrees. In the summer the FW tank temp could be 80 degrees, so I need to open the valve more.