Water heater bypass valve failure?

GL243 · 10-11-2019, 01:05 PM

Winterized my SLX 267BHSW a few days ago, had trouble getting the water pump to come up to pressure and stop with the water pump hose in bottles of pink stuff, finally got it to work (after going through 3 gallons . . .) after I put the plug back in my drained water heater, and, even though the bypass valves were in the "bypass" positions, I ended up with antifreeze and pressure in the water heater. Only thing I can think of is one of the bypass valves must have failed, but, has anyone here ever had this issue and/or know of any other way I would've ended up with antifreeze in the hot water tank? Trailer's going in next month for a couple warranty things and am planning to have this checked out also, perhaps. Thanks for any help.

DonaandDon · 10-12-2019, 08:23 AM

The by pass does not allow water to enter the water heater. You have to close the inlet and outlet to prevent water from entering the tank. Once the in/out is closed the water will bypass the heater and go to the hot side of the system.

After ensuring the isolation of the tank leave the drain open and be sure to flush that tank back out.

GL243 · 10-12-2019, 09:33 AM

Thanks, but that's exactly what I did, i.e. closed both (mine only has 2) bypass valves and left WH tank drain plug out, but then the water pump would not come up to pressure and stop while pumping the antifreeze into the water lines. When I put the WH drain plug back in, it did come up to pressure and stop, allowing me to complete getting antifreeze coming out of all faucets, toilet, city water connection, but I also then ended up with antifreeze in the WH tank, and it was not full but was pressurized as evidenced by the drain plug spraying when I loosened it up again.

So, again, I'm guessing the only way this could happen like this is if at least one of the 2 bypass valves has failed and now lets water or antifreeze to get into the WH tank, and questions are:

Has anyone had this happen before? and,

Is there any other way that the antifreeze could have gotten into the tank?

eagle55 · 10-13-2019, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GL243

Thanks, but that's exactly what I did, i.e. closed both (mine only has 2) bypass valves and left WH tank drain plug out, but then the water pump would not come up to pressure and stop while pumping the antifreeze into the water lines. When I put the WH drain plug back in, it did come up to pressure and stop, allowing me to complete getting antifreeze coming out of all faucets, toilet, city water connection, but I also then ended up with antifreeze in the WH tank, and it was not full but was pressurized as evidenced by the drain plug spraying when I loosened it up again.

So, again, I'm guessing the only way this could happen like this is if at least one of the 2 bypass valves has failed and now lets water or antifreeze to get into the WH tank, and questions are:

Has anyone had this happen before? and,

Is there any other way that the antifreeze could have gotten into the tank?

I don't see how antifreeze could have entered your water heater if the valves were both in the bypass position. Must have a bad valve or perhaps a loose valve handle making it seem the valve is closed..

ALJO · 10-13-2019, 10:43 AM

The 3 way valves usually don't fail, have them in the correct position. Some systems use two valves (3way) and others use 3 valve system, they close the in and out from the WH and open the bypass.

**norty1** · 10-13-2019, 12:31 PM

One of your 3way valves is bad. Warranty issue if still under 2 years.

GL243 · 10-13-2019, 06:46 PM

Here's a picture of the 2 bypass valves taken at the time that antifreeze ended up in the water heater tank (sorry it's 90 degrees off, can't seem to get it to be upright for some reason). So far, I'm inclined to agree it's gotta be one of the two valves is bad. Thanks for the replies.

2edgesword · 10-13-2019, 06:53 PM

If the bypass had failed I don't think three gallons would have build up enough pressure to stop the water pump. If the bypass value had truly failed the pump would have to fill the hot water tank in order to build enough pressure to stop the pump. Three gallons of pink stuff wouldn't fill the standard six gallon hot water tank unless all the water hadn't been drained from the tank.

GL243 · 10-13-2019, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2edgesword

If the bypass had failed I don't think three gallons would have build up enough pressure to stop the water pump. If the bypass value had truly failed the pump would have to fill the hot water tank in order to build enough pressure to stop the pump. Three gallons of pink stuff wouldn't fill the standard six gallon hot water tank unless all the water hadn't been drained from the tank.

Thanks, I actually thought the same thing. My first attempt used up 3 gallons of pink before I could get pink to all the faucets, etc. while the water pump wouldn't stop running, and I had the drain plug out of the water heater tank then, so I figured later I must have had it all drain out of the water heater tank and just didn't notice it in the gravel the trailer's sitting on in storage.

So after buying another 3 gallons and trying again, I put the WH drain plug back in, but the water pump actually came up to pressure and stopped at only about 2/3 of the first gallon of pink stuff sucked out of the jug. I almost didn't even pull the WH drain plug again after I completed the winterizing, but figured I should and was really surprised it had pink in it and under some pressure. I don't think there was even a gallon of pink in the water heater however as I caught at least half of it in a white bucket and it looked like maybe a pint or so.

So . . . it's really strange, defying what I thought I knew of the logic of this process.

Still thinking it must be a defective bypass valve, so will likely just get the dealer to check it out in the warranty service visit planned for next month (and hope they don't charge me for re-winterizing or something . . .).

DonaandDon · 10-14-2019, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALJO

The 3 way valves usually don't fail, have them in the correct position. Some systems use two valves (3way) and others use 3 valve system, they close the in and out from the WH and open the bypass.

Do you have a pic for this type of system?

Thanks.

**norty1** · 10-14-2019, 09:08 AM

Just remember, you may or may not be protected from freezing weather in the configuration you are leaving it in.

GL243 · 10-14-2019, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norty1

Just remember, you may or may not be protected from freezing weather in the configuration you are leaving it in.

Which one of us are you referring to? If it's me, I'm just leaving the valves in the bypass position like the manual says, so how would that fail to protect from water freezing and bursting pipes? It's also how I did it last year and had no busted pipe problems in the spring. Thanks.

klpoppe · 10-14-2019, 09:57 AM

Are you sure that black valve is all the way in by-pass? Maybe it is the angle of the picture but it looks like it may not be all the way in the bypass position which would let some of the antifreeze sneak by into the water heater.

RogerR · 10-14-2019, 10:10 AM

Your bypass valve may have a crumb of rust or whatever in it preventing it from fully closing. You could try flushing it with water or pink but that could be expensive and time consuming.

I would also blow out the system if you have or can borrow a compressor. The little blow out screw in connector is cheap. $6 on amazon, lots of other places have them in stock. Also, plenty of youtubes on how to do it. Keep pressure under 40 psi.

GL243 · 10-14-2019, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klpoppe

Are you sure that black valve is all the way in by-pass? Maybe it is the angle of the picture but it looks like it may not be all the way in the bypass position which would let some of the antifreeze sneak by into the water heater.

I will definitely check on that, thanks!

GL243 · 10-14-2019, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerR

Your bypass valve may have a crumb of rust or whatever in it preventing it from fully closing. You could try flushing it with water or pink but that could be expensive and time consuming.

I would also blow out the system if you have or can borrow a compressor. The little blow out screw in connector is cheap. $6 on amazon, lots of other places have them in stock. Also, plenty of youtubes on how to do it. Keep pressure under 40 psi.

Thanks, hadn't thought of that.

Does using air to blow it out make the bypass issue moot? Seems like it would, maybe.

ALJO · 10-14-2019, 11:26 AM

Those plastic valves are easy to take apart, just pull the valve stem out by the handle, some Vaseline on the seals and they are brand new.

2 valve systems - the blue line valve always points to the red water line to bypass. Pointed to the intake or WH connection is normal operation.

bankr63 · 10-14-2019, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by klpoppe

Are you sure that black valve is all the way in by-pass? Maybe it is the angle of the picture but it looks like it may not be all the way in the bypass position which would let some of the antifreeze sneak by into the water heater.

I thought the same looking at the picture, and it could be @RogerR's suggestion that is the issue stopping it from closing fully. A small leak would probably lead to the situation you described. With the tank drain plug out, the pressure will never build because it is open to air. With the plug back in, the tank itself would provide enough back pressure eventually; kind of like the accumulator tank on a well pump system.

GL243 · 10-14-2019, 01:13 PM

Thanks, that makes sense. I'll probably use up another gallon of pink stuff checking these latest leads out, but I already have plenty. Am a little scared to try and pull a valve apart yet as Aljo described, because then I might have a water leak (?), but maybe I won't need to go to that step. Anyway, thanks for all of the help.

**norty1** · 10-14-2019, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GL243

Which one of us are you referring to? If it's me, I'm just leaving the valves in the bypass position like the manual says, so how would that fail to protect from water freezing and bursting pipes? It's also how I did it last year and had no busted pipe problems in the spring. Thanks.

I was referring to your post. Just as a precaution since the bypass was not completed due to the valve not working.

You may also like: