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Old 10-03-2015, 08:25 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Donedroolin View Post
You should never replace the plastic plug with a brass or metal one. That plug did exactly what it was suppose to do. If your relief valve fails that plastic plug is the secondary back up made to fail. Never put a metal plug in place. I have seen a hot water heater where the tank failed due to this, lucky no one got hurt . But the water in the camper , not good.

I second that...
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Old 10-03-2015, 08:31 AM   #22
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Another tip: they always blow when it's cold or raining. Make sure you have a spare on hand.
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Old 10-03-2015, 08:35 AM   #23
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Thanks for to all. Great information. I have ordered a Easy Out Retractor Set and a Electronic Thermostat. Will try the saw method 1st.
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:58 AM   #24
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I just replaced the thermostats on my 10 gal Atwood. Last trip out the pressure relief valve was abnormally leaking so I shut the heater down. Found out that one of the contacts on the primary thermostat was loose so the control board wasn't receiving the shut down signal when the water reached temp. Luckily the plastic plug remained intact and the PRV did it's job.
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Old 10-03-2015, 02:54 PM   #25
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Is that just a rubber hose clamped over the plastic cap? And if so, does it seal ok?
It is a nylon plug with a male outlet for the water heater, then I use common heater hose and hose clamps. The valve is a common shut off valve for RV's.

I purchased the tank end and the shut off valve from a trailer supply company (SixRobblees: Six Robblees' Inc. | Since 1913).
The heater hose I picked up from an auto supply store. All parts handle the heat and pressure without any worries or trouble.

Even still I carry an extra plug in the TT tool bag.

Also, I want to echo another comment. DO NOT replace the nylon plug with a brass plug on the aluminum tank atwoods. The brass with the aluminum and the heating and cooling causes a reaction inside the tank which will erode the lining.
For those who have the tanks which utilize the Anode rod, the tank itself is slightly different makeup, plus the Anode rod cancels the interaction.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:54 PM   #26
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Hey Norty1, do you remember what you used to cut it down to the threads? I spent a couple of hrs this PM using a small hack saw blade without any success.
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Old 10-05-2015, 10:06 AM   #27
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I used a small hack saw blade down to the threads, then picked at it with a small screwdriver and a awl until I could pull on it with needle nose pliers.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:01 PM   #28
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W/H Drain Plug

I was able to get the threads out by using a small hack saw blade, small screw driver and needle nose pliers. However, I did damage the threads a bit as my replacement plug is cross threading. I'm meeting a couple of Canadian friends at Huntington Beach State Park tomorrow for a weeks camping, weather permitting. They are GM retired Tool and Die Makers and hopefully they can help me. Thanks to all
for the replies. Worse case, Amazon has my model W/H for $346.00.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:37 PM   #29
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I was able to get the threads out by using a small hack saw blade, small screw driver and needle nose pliers. However, I did damage the threads a bit as my replacement plug is cross threading. I'm meeting a couple of Canadian friends at Huntington Beach State Park tomorrow for a weeks camping, weather permitting. They are GM retired Tool and Die Makers and hopefully they can help me. Thanks to all
for the replies. Worse case, Amazon has my model W/H for $346.00.
You should not have damaged the threads. It is very easy to cross thread that plug. Get another and try again, I have messed up a few from cross threads. My money is the wh is not damaged.
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:08 PM   #30
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Interesting find the other day when I was draining the water lines... before placing my water heater in bypass, with the low point drains open, I lifted the pressure relief valve and the water heater tank completely drained out the hot side low point drain. I verified it was empty by removing the plug, but in the future I'm thinking that won't be necessary.
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