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06-01-2014, 11:10 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: London
Posts: 196
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Waxing Camper Trouble.
Ultralite 165 Sport, my front appeared faded. I removed some old stickers last week and hit them with turtle wax and the spots shined so bad I had to wax the whole thing. Did half this morning and the wax sort of dried down. Couldn't wipe it off, you could still see swirl marks from me hand rubbing it. I panicked and got the wash bucket and washed it good but you can still see swirl marks. What did I do wrong? Is it just where it was so dry it may take more coats? It is humid today maybe it just dried to fast, or I should not let it dry. Anyways have half a waxed front now.
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06-01-2014, 11:49 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: London
Posts: 196
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Multi coats aren't any different. Like it dries instantly it does it if I wipe it off 30 seconds after applying. Weird
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06-01-2014, 11:54 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: London
Posts: 196
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06-01-2014, 05:13 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, West Michigan
Posts: 1,817
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You should always wax the whole trailer...why wouldn't you? I never use paste wax, always the spray on and wipe off with a synthetic chamois type and have had great results.
__________________
2006 23B Hybrid with 10k round bar WDH
2011 F150 4x4 SCREW Ecoboost, Max Tow, Integrated TBC, 3.73 LS axle, Firestone Ride Rite airbags.
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06-01-2014, 07:03 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 1,261
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I wax my 165 one a year (and never look fwd to doing it either). I had the same results at times with applying a liquid wax by hand. Most if it was due to I put it on while the TT was in direct sunlight or was still warm but usually a second coat in those areas takes care of it.
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06-01-2014, 10:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
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Maybe try an electric buffer and do smaller areas.
__________________
2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
2018 Surveyor 265RLDS well equipped.
Life in the slow lane is still life.
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06-02-2014, 05:11 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 1,261
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Id try the elect buffer like Clutch suggested. You finish doesn't look that dull so the wax shouldn't be hard to remove. Not sure what type of Turtle wax your using but I've had good luck with NuFinish color back liquid wax that applied and removed easy by hand.
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06-02-2014, 08:50 AM
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#9
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverta16
snip..... Couldn't wipe it off, you could still see swirl marks from me hand rubbing it....snip.... What did I do wrong?...snip
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Actually you didn't do anything wrong, the Filon surface can be a little unpredictable at times when it comes to waxing, especially the front cap (oxidation plays into it). I've had the same thing happen with my Eagle's Filon surface, but I was able to get the wax off using a damp towel with a little "elbow grease".
A couple of years ago I went to the Filon manufacture's site and they recommended using a specific rubbing compound on the front cap to remove the oxidation first, then apply the wax....., it worked for me. The sides of my TT don't seem to give me as much trouble.
Bob
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2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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06-02-2014, 09:45 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,210
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Any oxidized surface is going to act like a sponge and should be either gently compounded or hit with a cleaner wax first. Once you "cut" the oxidation and rehabilitate it the wax can then be applied. A random orbit wheel is the easiest method of "cutting" the oxidation and it will leave swirl marks, but not noticeable on white or light colors unless at a certain angle. To cut them down a "glaze" or swirl mark remover can be applied, which is not a wax and needs a top coat of wax once complete.
Since you exposed new/old skin you are going to need to blend it. Keeping a coat of wax on it twice a year should help keep it up and not going back to the chalked look.
I do my front cap 3-4 times a year as that is the one thing that always seems to chalk especially where the roof meets it. The sides only need it 1-2x's due to the angle the sun hits it. It also helps get the bugs off easily with little pressure. Sometimes just a hose.
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06-02-2014, 02:13 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: London
Posts: 196
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My sides and rear really shine , the front was what I've now learned is oxidized. I'm going to try to hit it with the buffer and see what that does. I thought it was just where it sat back partially in the previous owners shed but front oxidation must be a common problem. My front propane cover was also faded yellow, I fixed that as well. Thanks all for the help.
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