Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
Jayco RV Owners Forum
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-09-2011, 04:14 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Full Timing since December 2011
Posts: 311
Weak welds on bumper discovered plus "Holy-Cow"

Well, I finished replacing the motors on my Eagle. While I had the belly panels off I took a close look at things. I noticed a hole in the tail section where the frame and bumper meet. Most other places I noticed spray foam and was surprised that this was not filled with the expanding stuff as well.

Upon closer inspection (had to pull out the bike rack slide gizmo) I could look underneath and see wood. I grabbed my flashlight and discovered that where the frame met the rear bumper a sizable amount of the black plastic membrane/vapor barrier had been MELTED. It appear that the installed the rear bumper post production and the frame became hot and melted the stuff around it. The wood that I observed is the back paneling in the rear bedroom.

If this was out of warranty, I would spray some insulating foam and be done with it; but, I think Ed jinxed me . This is one fix for Jayco and their crews.

(I have pictures! DW will have to help me post them from her desktop though...)
__________________
2015 Seismic 4212 on order
2010.5 Dodge Ram 3500 MC CTD HD Dually (4.10 gears), Firestone Air-Bags, with a Superglide model 4400.
2012 Yamaha Zuma 125
Shin Pond Hunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 04:28 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
edatlanta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Maplesville - Home Base
Posts: 3,059
You can't imagine how sorry I am about the jinx. I guess I don't know my own power.
Sorry about what you found. Can we assume your slide comes in now?
__________________
Ed
KM4STL

2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS, Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50X, TST Systems 507 TPMS, RV Flex Armor Roof
edatlanta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 04:53 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Full Timing since December 2011
Posts: 311
Slides work better than before - the old ones sounded strained; whereas the replacements sound smooth (if that makes sense???). I wonder if that is due to an extra RPM (old=10 / new=11) Very pleased with this.

I do dread dealing with the local crew to get this latest dilemma resolved... I'm trying to keep my angst in check...
__________________
2015 Seismic 4212 on order
2010.5 Dodge Ram 3500 MC CTD HD Dually (4.10 gears), Firestone Air-Bags, with a Superglide model 4400.
2012 Yamaha Zuma 125
Shin Pond Hunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2011, 10:38 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
The rear bumper is usually just spot welded in place and is not intended to protect anything other than the sewer hose.
__________________
2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
2018 Surveyor 265RLDS well equipped.
Life in the slow lane is still life.
clutch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 01:52 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 524
In another month or so I will be taking off the black membrane under my 07 Eagle 325BHS and having my unit spray foamed to rid me of the problems with mice. Was it much of a problem to remove the membrane? Did you notice that wiring is left hanging or is it tucked away? I was thinking of encasing my wires in a plastic casing that would be loose enough to allow me to pull wire in the event of a problem after I have it spray foamed.
Albertaguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 02:17 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
Quote:
Originally Posted by Albertaguy View Post
.... Was it much of a problem to remove the membrane? Did you notice that wiring is left hanging or is it tucked away? I was thinking of encasing my wires in a plastic casing that would be loose enough to allow me to pull wire in the event of a problem after I have it spray foamed.
To remove the black plastic fabric material (that holds the fibreglass insulation up in place) (re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0597.jpg) , simply take a sharp utility knife, push its blade out approx. 3/8" and "slice away". After slicing away a few areas and manually pulling down the fibreglass batts with gloves (while wearing clear glasses), you'll get the hang of it. Under my Jayco, I was amazed at all the dangling wires. Wires pulled on an angle (from corner of trailer to opposite corner of trailer) instead of using straight runs with 90 degree turns. And, some of the wires were pulled "too tight" as well. re: One could almost sing a song on their "too tight" of wires. One can tell the Jayco saved lots of dollars on wiring (re: using less amount of it) by installing it this sloppy and over tight method s well. Before Spray Foaming (using Contractor grade @ Close Cell - 2 lbs at 3.5"-4.0" thick), I lengthened many of its sloppy underbelly wires (re: Slide motor wires, tank sensor wires, re-ran its 10 gauge brake wiring) and put the wires inside plastic wire loom. Then, used galvanized strapping and fastened to underside of plywood floor. re: Put fasteners every 12" apart using 1/2" long screws and flat washers. re: Strapping of 1/2" wide by 50 ft long roll @ http://images.orgill.com/200x200/5965371.jpg

To view lots of before and after pictures, surf: http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ite/?start=all

For me, I would apply Contractor Grade (not those useless DIY kits) under my future TTs again. The comparison of before and after are amazing. To me, all TTs/TVs/5ers should have CC - 2 lbs Spray Foam in their floor, walls and ceiling as minimum build. But, that's a topic for a different post....

If you tow with your TTs/5ers/ RVs (instead of seasonal site like my TT), simply re-install the factory hard plastic panels. re: http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/u...90502-1511.jpg The hard plastic panels can be numbered using yellow masking tape and a black marker, and simply unscrewed (or screwed back on) using a cordless drill. These hard plastic panels create wind drag resistance and create more water splashing protection (when being towed). And in the large under belly holes (like under the tub's good neck), simply cover the areas with steel screen (stamped it to the bottom wooden floor), then Spray Foam. Spray Foam loves sticking to wood and screen. Thus, bonding this patch areas even stronger.

Hope this helps....

.
Spike99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 04:21 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Full Timing since December 2011
Posts: 311
Spike is right on! The wiring is awfully tight; when replacing my slide motors I had to be very mindful of this fact. Some wires are in plastic coverings, but most are just bundled together and are run at odd angles. I'm a little jerked too of the fact that when the wires had been pulled thru the insulation and moisture barrier, they were like Zorro! Huge gashes cut exposing the insulation and sub-floor. I bought regular insulation to add to the belly portions that I can access without cutting/dropping everything. I love the spray foam idea, but, not sure where or how to do this...
__________________
2015 Seismic 4212 on order
2010.5 Dodge Ram 3500 MC CTD HD Dually (4.10 gears), Firestone Air-Bags, with a Superglide model 4400.
2012 Yamaha Zuma 125
Shin Pond Hunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 06:30 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
To remove the black plastic fabric material (that holds the fibreglass insulation up in place) (re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0597.jpg) , simply take a sharp utility knife, push its blade out approx. 3/8" and "slice away". After slicing away a few areas and manually pulling down the fibreglass batts with gloves (while wearing clear glasses), you'll get the hang of it. Under my Jayco, I was amazed at all the dangling wires. Wires pulled on an angle (from corner of trailer to opposite corner of trailer) instead of using straight runs with 90 degree turns. And, some of the wires were pulled "too tight" as well. re: One could almost sing a song on their "too tight" of wires. One can tell the Jayco saved lots of dollars on wiring (re: using less amount of it) by installing it this sloppy and over tight method s well. Before Spray Foaming (using Contractor grade @ Close Cell - 2 lbs at 3.5"-4.0" thick), I lengthened many of its sloppy underbelly wires (re: Slide motor wires, tank sensor wires, re-ran its 10 gauge brake wiring) and put the wires inside plastic wire loom. Then, used galvanized strapping and fastened to underside of plywood floor. re: Put fasteners every 12" apart using 1/2" long screws and flat washers. re: Strapping of 1/2" wide by 50 ft long roll @ http://images.orgill.com/200x200/5965371.jpg

To view lots of before and after pictures, surf: http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ite/?start=all

For me, I would apply Contractor Grade (not those useless DIY kits) under my future TTs again. The comparison of before and after are amazing. To me, all TTs/TVs/5ers should have CC - 2 lbs Spray Foam in their floor, walls and ceiling as minimum build. But, that's a topic for a different post....

If you tow with your TTs/5ers/ RVs (instead of seasonal site like my TT), simply re-install the factory hard plastic panels. re: http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/u...90502-1511.jpg The hard plastic panels can be numbered using yellow masking tape and a black marker, and simply unscrewed (or screwed back on) using a cordless drill. These hard plastic panels create wind drag resistance and create more water splashing protection (when being towed). And in the large under belly holes (like under the tub's good neck), simply cover the areas with steel screen (stamped it to the bottom wooden floor), then Spray Foam. Spray Foam loves sticking to wood and screen. Thus, bonding this patch areas even stronger.

Hope this helps....

.
Great post thanks.
Albertaguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 06:36 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shin Pond Hunter View Post
Spike is right on! The wiring is awfully tight; when replacing my slide motors I had to be very mindful of this fact. Some wires are in plastic coverings, but most are just bundled together and are run at odd angles. I'm a little jerked too of the fact that when the wires had been pulled thru the insulation and moisture barrier, they were like Zorro! Huge gashes cut exposing the insulation and sub-floor. I bought regular insulation to add to the belly portions that I can access without cutting/dropping everything. I love the spray foam idea, but, not sure where or how to do this...
I was lucky to find a company that specializes not only in building spray foaming but he does tons of RV's. I asked him if I needed to cover the foam after it was completed and they tell my that the product that they use does not have to be covered or protected. They also have a warranty on it. The only thing that I am now worried about is what you guys are saying about the wiring. I guess I will find out soon enough. Thanks again to everyone!!!
Albertaguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2011, 08:37 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
Albertaguy.

For your TT's future Spray Foam upgrade, is there any prep work your Spray Foam company recommends? re: Do they recommend you remove the old (factory) insulation, do they recommend you re-install / re-troute the underbelly wiring properly, do they recommend you tape any non-spray foam items (re: around tank valves, around slide motor, around slide rails, around slide gears, etc. etc.) yourself? Or, perhaps remove the factory steps (to spray foam under the steps properly), remove the outer bottom hard plastic panels, etc. etc? Thus, they simply apply plastic sheets on outer over spray areas (like: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0671.jpg), and "spray away"?

If wondering, I used to work in an auto body shop and was accountable to prep vehicles for painting. At young age, I learned what to protect and what areas to prepare - so the master painter guy comes in, sprays and leaves. "spraying" prep-skills I applied in my TT's Spray Foam upgrades as well.

Just wondering if your Spray Foam company recommended any prep work on your specific TT in order to keep the costs lower and quality higher as well???

.
Spike99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2011, 12:20 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Full Timing since December 2011
Posts: 311
Quote:
Originally Posted by clutch View Post
The rear bumper is usually just spot welded in place and is not intended to protect anything other than the sewer hose.
No spot welding here. Beads are horrible and there is an inch+ gap in one of the attempted welds. Absolutely horrible! Hoping tonight to have the pictures uploaded...
__________________
2015 Seismic 4212 on order
2010.5 Dodge Ram 3500 MC CTD HD Dually (4.10 gears), Firestone Air-Bags, with a Superglide model 4400.
2012 Yamaha Zuma 125
Shin Pond Hunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2011, 09:32 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
I havn't check the bumper on our Eagle so I am not familiar with Jayco. I know on our Montana Mountaineer the welds were just big spots about a half inch long in a few places.
__________________
2011 Eagle 330RLTS with just about every option.
2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
2018 Surveyor 265RLDS well equipped.
Life in the slow lane is still life.
clutch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2011, 12:55 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shin Pond Hunter View Post
No spot welding here. Beads are horrible and there is an inch+ gap in one of the attempted welds. Absolutely horrible! Hoping tonight to have the pictures uploaded...
I'd like to see your pictures. Pictures are worth 1,000s of words...

thanks.
Spike99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 07:03 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Full Timing since December 2011
Posts: 311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
I'd like to see your pictures. Pictures are worth 1,000s of words...

thanks.
I emailed a Mod last night looking for picture-posting help...
__________________
2015 Seismic 4212 on order
2010.5 Dodge Ram 3500 MC CTD HD Dually (4.10 gears), Firestone Air-Bags, with a Superglide model 4400.
2012 Yamaha Zuma 125
Shin Pond Hunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 09:07 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Terry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 4,923
Helping Shin with some pics -- here you go:









__________________
Terry
2009 Jayco 26BH
2004 Chevy Silverado 1500
2009 JayFlight Manual Library

Want to add a signature to your posts? --> Click Here
Terry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 09:42 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
Ouch!!!! Those really are bad welds. A high school student can weld better than that. Heck. Even I can weld better then that. And, I'm not a certified welder.

Because of the paint area, it appears the welds are NOT factory. To me, the TT frames are welded, then painted (with paint over the welds). Looks like a repair job from previous owner or RV dealer. Can the previous owner or RV dealer provide some historicial history as well?

.
Spike99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 09:48 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Full Timing since December 2011
Posts: 311
I bought this new from RVs direct in Indiana (down the street from Jayco). I'll have to make a phone call and see if they have any "info" for me.
__________________
2015 Seismic 4212 on order
2010.5 Dodge Ram 3500 MC CTD HD Dually (4.10 gears), Firestone Air-Bags, with a Superglide model 4400.
2012 Yamaha Zuma 125
Shin Pond Hunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 10:03 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shin Pond Hunter View Post
I bought this new from RVs direct in Indiana (down the street from Jayco). I'll have to make a phone call and see if they have any "info" for me.
If someone is giving you the "run around", simply knock on Jayco's front door and show them your pictures. And if requested, bring your trailer to them. I'm sure they'd love to find the root cause of those bad welds as well. Besides ugly, those welds are NOT safe. One can tell just by looking at them.

Just wondering... Are both under sides of its rear bumper like that? Or, is it only one side of the rear bumper? If the other side is perfect (perfect welds with paint over the welds), then one knows those welds are a "quick fix" repair job.

Hope this helps as well....
Spike99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 08:02 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Full Timing since December 2011
Posts: 311
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
If someone is giving you the "run around", simply knock on Jayco's front door and show them your pictures. And if requested, bring your trailer to them. I'm sure they'd love to find the root cause of those bad welds as well. Besides ugly, those welds are NOT safe. One can tell just by looking at them.

Just wondering... Are both under sides of its rear bumper like that? Or, is it only one side of the rear bumper? If the other side is perfect (perfect welds with paint over the welds), then one knows those welds are a "quick fix" repair job.

Hope this helps as well....
Both welds are just as bad. Plus the paint job is blended near the welds. I ordered my rig with a bike rack. I'm wondering if the dealer cut off the rear bumper and attached one with the bike rack installed already. This has kept me wondering where else did Jayco cut corners?
__________________
2015 Seismic 4212 on order
2010.5 Dodge Ram 3500 MC CTD HD Dually (4.10 gears), Firestone Air-Bags, with a Superglide model 4400.
2012 Yamaha Zuma 125
Shin Pond Hunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 08:52 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 414
Was it Jayco or your RV dealer????

The more I look at those welds, the more I know they will NOT pass DOT or DMV certification. Actually, I bet those welds are in the deep illegal range condition.

Definitely gotta confirm if Jayco or the RV Dealer (who retails Jayco products).

.
Spike99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Jayco, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2002-2016 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.