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Old 04-09-2011, 05:14 PM   #1
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Weak welds on bumper discovered plus "Holy-Cow"

Well, I finished replacing the motors on my Eagle. While I had the belly panels off I took a close look at things. I noticed a hole in the tail section where the frame and bumper meet. Most other places I noticed spray foam and was surprised that this was not filled with the expanding stuff as well.

Upon closer inspection (had to pull out the bike rack slide gizmo) I could look underneath and see wood. I grabbed my flashlight and discovered that where the frame met the rear bumper a sizable amount of the black plastic membrane/vapor barrier had been MELTED. It appear that the installed the rear bumper post production and the frame became hot and melted the stuff around it. The wood that I observed is the back paneling in the rear bedroom.

If this was out of warranty, I would spray some insulating foam and be done with it; but, I think Ed jinxed me . This is one fix for Jayco and their crews.

(I have pictures! DW will have to help me post them from her desktop though...)
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:28 PM   #2
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You can't imagine how sorry I am about the jinx. I guess I don't know my own power.
Sorry about what you found. Can we assume your slide comes in now?
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:53 PM   #3
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Slides work better than before - the old ones sounded strained; whereas the replacements sound smooth (if that makes sense???). I wonder if that is due to an extra RPM (old=10 / new=11) Very pleased with this.

I do dread dealing with the local crew to get this latest dilemma resolved... I'm trying to keep my angst in check...
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:38 PM   #4
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The rear bumper is usually just spot welded in place and is not intended to protect anything other than the sewer hose.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:52 PM   #5
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In another month or so I will be taking off the black membrane under my 07 Eagle 325BHS and having my unit spray foamed to rid me of the problems with mice. Was it much of a problem to remove the membrane? Did you notice that wiring is left hanging or is it tucked away? I was thinking of encasing my wires in a plastic casing that would be loose enough to allow me to pull wire in the event of a problem after I have it spray foamed.
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albertaguy View Post
.... Was it much of a problem to remove the membrane? Did you notice that wiring is left hanging or is it tucked away? I was thinking of encasing my wires in a plastic casing that would be loose enough to allow me to pull wire in the event of a problem after I have it spray foamed.
To remove the black plastic fabric material (that holds the fibreglass insulation up in place) (re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0597.jpg) , simply take a sharp utility knife, push its blade out approx. 3/8" and "slice away". After slicing away a few areas and manually pulling down the fibreglass batts with gloves (while wearing clear glasses), you'll get the hang of it. Under my Jayco, I was amazed at all the dangling wires. Wires pulled on an angle (from corner of trailer to opposite corner of trailer) instead of using straight runs with 90 degree turns. And, some of the wires were pulled "too tight" as well. re: One could almost sing a song on their "too tight" of wires. One can tell the Jayco saved lots of dollars on wiring (re: using less amount of it) by installing it this sloppy and over tight method s well. Before Spray Foaming (using Contractor grade @ Close Cell - 2 lbs at 3.5"-4.0" thick), I lengthened many of its sloppy underbelly wires (re: Slide motor wires, tank sensor wires, re-ran its 10 gauge brake wiring) and put the wires inside plastic wire loom. Then, used galvanized strapping and fastened to underside of plywood floor. re: Put fasteners every 12" apart using 1/2" long screws and flat washers. re: Strapping of 1/2" wide by 50 ft long roll @ http://images.orgill.com/200x200/5965371.jpg

To view lots of before and after pictures, surf: http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ite/?start=all

For me, I would apply Contractor Grade (not those useless DIY kits) under my future TTs again. The comparison of before and after are amazing. To me, all TTs/TVs/5ers should have CC - 2 lbs Spray Foam in their floor, walls and ceiling as minimum build. But, that's a topic for a different post....

If you tow with your TTs/5ers/ RVs (instead of seasonal site like my TT), simply re-install the factory hard plastic panels. re: http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/u...90502-1511.jpg The hard plastic panels can be numbered using yellow masking tape and a black marker, and simply unscrewed (or screwed back on) using a cordless drill. These hard plastic panels create wind drag resistance and create more water splashing protection (when being towed). And in the large under belly holes (like under the tub's good neck), simply cover the areas with steel screen (stamped it to the bottom wooden floor), then Spray Foam. Spray Foam loves sticking to wood and screen. Thus, bonding this patch areas even stronger.

Hope this helps....

.
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:21 PM   #7
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Spike is right on! The wiring is awfully tight; when replacing my slide motors I had to be very mindful of this fact. Some wires are in plastic coverings, but most are just bundled together and are run at odd angles. I'm a little jerked too of the fact that when the wires had been pulled thru the insulation and moisture barrier, they were like Zorro! Huge gashes cut exposing the insulation and sub-floor. I bought regular insulation to add to the belly portions that I can access without cutting/dropping everything. I love the spray foam idea, but, not sure where or how to do this...
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:30 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
To remove the black plastic fabric material (that holds the fibreglass insulation up in place) (re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0597.jpg) , simply take a sharp utility knife, push its blade out approx. 3/8" and "slice away". After slicing away a few areas and manually pulling down the fibreglass batts with gloves (while wearing clear glasses), you'll get the hang of it. Under my Jayco, I was amazed at all the dangling wires. Wires pulled on an angle (from corner of trailer to opposite corner of trailer) instead of using straight runs with 90 degree turns. And, some of the wires were pulled "too tight" as well. re: One could almost sing a song on their "too tight" of wires. One can tell the Jayco saved lots of dollars on wiring (re: using less amount of it) by installing it this sloppy and over tight method s well. Before Spray Foaming (using Contractor grade @ Close Cell - 2 lbs at 3.5"-4.0" thick), I lengthened many of its sloppy underbelly wires (re: Slide motor wires, tank sensor wires, re-ran its 10 gauge brake wiring) and put the wires inside plastic wire loom. Then, used galvanized strapping and fastened to underside of plywood floor. re: Put fasteners every 12" apart using 1/2" long screws and flat washers. re: Strapping of 1/2" wide by 50 ft long roll @ http://images.orgill.com/200x200/5965371.jpg

To view lots of before and after pictures, surf: http://s178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ite/?start=all

For me, I would apply Contractor Grade (not those useless DIY kits) under my future TTs again. The comparison of before and after are amazing. To me, all TTs/TVs/5ers should have CC - 2 lbs Spray Foam in their floor, walls and ceiling as minimum build. But, that's a topic for a different post....

If you tow with your TTs/5ers/ RVs (instead of seasonal site like my TT), simply re-install the factory hard plastic panels. re: http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/u...90502-1511.jpg The hard plastic panels can be numbered using yellow masking tape and a black marker, and simply unscrewed (or screwed back on) using a cordless drill. These hard plastic panels create wind drag resistance and create more water splashing protection (when being towed). And in the large under belly holes (like under the tub's good neck), simply cover the areas with steel screen (stamped it to the bottom wooden floor), then Spray Foam. Spray Foam loves sticking to wood and screen. Thus, bonding this patch areas even stronger.

Hope this helps....

.
Great post thanks.
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:36 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Shin Pond Hunter View Post
Spike is right on! The wiring is awfully tight; when replacing my slide motors I had to be very mindful of this fact. Some wires are in plastic coverings, but most are just bundled together and are run at odd angles. I'm a little jerked too of the fact that when the wires had been pulled thru the insulation and moisture barrier, they were like Zorro! Huge gashes cut exposing the insulation and sub-floor. I bought regular insulation to add to the belly portions that I can access without cutting/dropping everything. I love the spray foam idea, but, not sure where or how to do this...
I was lucky to find a company that specializes not only in building spray foaming but he does tons of RV's. I asked him if I needed to cover the foam after it was completed and they tell my that the product that they use does not have to be covered or protected. They also have a warranty on it. The only thing that I am now worried about is what you guys are saying about the wiring. I guess I will find out soon enough. Thanks again to everyone!!!
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:37 PM   #10
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Albertaguy.

For your TT's future Spray Foam upgrade, is there any prep work your Spray Foam company recommends? re: Do they recommend you remove the old (factory) insulation, do they recommend you re-install / re-troute the underbelly wiring properly, do they recommend you tape any non-spray foam items (re: around tank valves, around slide motor, around slide rails, around slide gears, etc. etc.) yourself? Or, perhaps remove the factory steps (to spray foam under the steps properly), remove the outer bottom hard plastic panels, etc. etc? Thus, they simply apply plastic sheets on outer over spray areas (like: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0671.jpg), and "spray away"?

If wondering, I used to work in an auto body shop and was accountable to prep vehicles for painting. At young age, I learned what to protect and what areas to prepare - so the master painter guy comes in, sprays and leaves. "spraying" prep-skills I applied in my TT's Spray Foam upgrades as well.

Just wondering if your Spray Foam company recommended any prep work on your specific TT in order to keep the costs lower and quality higher as well???

.
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