What is level?

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by 16WhiteColly

I bought a flat round 2” disc level that I lay on the floor inside the door, that checks the level in both directions at the same time. Best $20 I have ever spent. Then we double check by putting it on the countertop. I have a residential fridge, so not as important, but still want level.

https://www.amazon.com/XMLEI-horizon...%2C192&sr=8-19

I use something similar, but not quite as nice. I spent sometime leveling the TT, used my hydraulic bottle jack to get the TT exactly where I wanted it at. Then I placed a good glob of marine adhesive on the tongue near the tongue jack, then placed the bubble level in it and made sure it showed level. It is a great location. When setting up, it is easy to see what adjustments are needed. If the weather is bad, it don't have to dink around. It is right where I need it.

[Woodworker]

Originally Posted by Bandit12

Ya'll may not believe this, but when we had our pop up camper, I leveled it even though the fridge in it was non-operational. Made it more comfortable for sleeping. I found when I leveled it before popping the roof up and extending the bunks, I was really low in the nose. I figured out when I leveled it, if I kept it a full bubble high in the front, when set up it would be perfectly level front to back. Our current rig has auto leveling so I don't worry about it anymore though I do check it with a small torpedo level.

I always leveled our old popup. Once leveled I would tweak front to back using the gap at the top of the door. Get that gap even an the door would not only open an close easier it would latch better so it would stay shut all the time

[OnTheGo]

Some years ago we had a "leveling" thread going, and I always remember one post in particular. The poster said he takes a beer break when he was about halfway through his setup. If the beer didn't slide off the dinette table, that was good enough.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Isaacs

I know I'm really level when the half open bathroom door stays in place!

I level it with a tongue level and a 2' level on the storage floor. When done, my wife checks the br door as stated above.

We don't have the modern levelers, just the old fashioned way.

[bykerhd]

The auto level in our 2020 31UL has proven to be somewhat of a joke.
"Relatively" close a couple of times.
Not sure what this system uses to tell it the unit is level but it doesn't work that well.

Usually I have to do some fiddling to get the 2' bubble level in the ballpark.

[EvilDoer]

Originally Posted by Tunce the traveler

I’ve placed 2 levels on my TT, one on the rear ( checked by DW as I back in ) & the other one on the side that I crank up or down as needed to level. I check them for accuracy twice a year and in 8 years they have never needed adjustment.

To install these my first priority is that the BEDS are level, then that the fridge is within its 3 degree operational limit. I don't count on the floor, the frame, the counters, the roof, the walls, or anything else being level or square.

The things you'll notice are the slope of the bed and the malfunctioning fridge, get those right and you'll be much happier.

[kirkelli]

Originally Posted by bykerhd

The auto level in our 2020 31UL has proven to be somewhat of a joke.
"Relatively" close a couple of times.
Not sure what this system uses to tell it the unit is level but it doesn't work that well.

Usually I have to do some fiddling to get the 2' bubble level in the ballpark.

My 19 has had to be recalibrated twice. For the most part the auto level system works well. Recalibrating is fairly quick and easy. The process involves manually leveling the trailer then run the reset calibration on your control panel.

[Firewrench]

I use my phone to start with. Then check the half bath door. Then check the R/H fridge door. If too low in the rear, the door hits the corner of adjacent countertop when you let go of it. Been “reprimanded” about that by DW.
Then if eggs run to the side of pan the next morning, I might tweak it some more.

[Cincinnati Kid]

Our auto level seems to be ok, but I would like to be sure it is set properly.

How do you make sure the frame rails are parallel, and not twisted? How far off the ground should the entire rig be? (In other words, how much are you supposed to raise the axle springs when starting to level?)
There must be a step by step process for initially setting up the rig so that it is square, level, and that the legs are putting just the right amount upward pressure on the frame to stabilize it, but not so much that they start bending/warping things.

Just watching the refrigerator door swing doesn't seem to be a good enough indicator.

[Firewrench]

Well, if you use “auto level”, it doesn’t care what the frame is doing…I never use auto level. It makes the coach too high, lifts wheels off the ground sometimes when it’s not necessary.

[craigav]

What is level "enough". According to Norcold, they recommend no more than 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back. If you look at most RV bubble levels, you will see that 3 degrees is actually a lot off level, so I agree with others, if the bathroom door stays put, and things don't go rolling off the table very quickly, then you are level enough (enough for a norcold fridge that is). ~CA

https://www.amazon.com/Graduated-Sca...224239&sr=8-23

or

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-08526...224239&sr=8-32

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by craigav

What is level "enough". According to Norcold, they recommend no more than 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back. If you look at most RV bubble levels, you will see that 3 degrees is actually a lot off level, so I agree with others, if the bathroom door stays put, and things don't go rolling off the table very quickly, then you are level enough (enough for a norcold fridge that is). ~CA

https://www.amazon.com/Graduated-Sca...224239&sr=8-23

or

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-08526...224239&sr=8-32

THIS exactly.

3 degrees out side to side (most of the time that's going to be front/back on the camper as the fridge will be mounted in the side) or 6 degrees out front/back (side to side for the camper) is pretty obvious.

Like I said before, if your rig is out of spec enough to put the fridge out of spec and you don't notice, you really need to put down the bottle...

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

THIS exactly.

3 degrees out side to side (most of the time that's going to be front/back on the camper as the fridge will be mounted in the side) or 6 degrees out front/back (side to side for the camper) is pretty obvious.

Like I said before, if your rig is out of spec enough to put the fridge out of spec and you don't notice, you really need to put down the bottle...

Lol, I agree, and I suggest for those who don't notice things like this, to be sure to put the cap back on the bottle nice and snug before you set the bottle down somewhere.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by craigav

Lol, I agree, and I suggest for those who don't notice things like this, to be sure to put the cap back on the bottle nice and snug before you set the bottle down somewhere.

LOL!! I was going to mention that too! No need to spill now...

[kirkelli]

Originally Posted by Cincinnati Kid

Our auto level seems to be ok, but I would like to be sure it is set properly.

How do you make sure the frame rails are parallel, and not twisted? How far off the ground should the entire rig be? (In other words, how much are you supposed to raise the axle springs when starting to level?)
There must be a step by step process for initially setting up the rig so that it is square, level, and that the legs are putting just the right amount upward pressure on the frame to stabilize it, but not so much that they start bending/warping things.

Just watching the refrigerator door swing doesn't seem to be a good enough indicator.

You should try to get coach as level as possible using tire blocks then let the auto level do the minor fine tuning. You don’t want to use your jacks to raise any further than spring tension and never tires off the ground. When I first got my RV and making sure the floor was level, I check my fridge and stove for level. My fridge was spot on, my stove was off quite a bit so I had to adjust and level that out. Now when I’m auto leveled, I know everything else is with it. I always check with a level in one spot forward to aft, side to side on the floor center of the coach, which just happens to be forward of the door.

[Firewrench]

I put blocks down if needed. But I wonder, if I have a couple blocks under one wheel, what is the frame doing? I think the tweaking from driving on irregular surfaces and dirt roads is more than what might occur when using the jacks.Here’s another puzzler. Our coach has a sticker that says it must be leveled before and after extending the slides… huh?

[TxLoser]

Originally Posted by Firewrench

I put blocks down if needed. But I wonder, if I have a couple blocks under one wheel, what is the frame doing? I think the tweaking from driving on irregular surfaces and dirt roads is more than what might occur when using the jacks.Here’s another puzzler. Our coach has a sticker that says it must be leveled before and after extending the slides… huh?

That’s funny. Must’ve been a Friday before a vacation when they tasked someone with creating that placard.

[bykerhd]

We were on the road for a couple months this summer and stayed at quite a few parks.
Blocks of wood under the front jacks and front wheels off the ground by a couple inches was NOT unusual to more, or less, achieve "level" for our 31UL.

Auto level quite often displayed "out of range" which would mean more wood and some manual fiddling with the right/left or front/back adjustments.
"Close enough", at least so the beer didn't slide off the table, became the norm, mostly.

[kirkelli]

Originally Posted by Firewrench

I put blocks down if needed. But I wonder, if I have a couple blocks under one wheel, what is the frame doing? I think the tweaking from driving on irregular surfaces and dirt roads is more than what might occur when using the jacks.Here’s another puzzler. Our coach has a sticker that says it must be leveled before and after extending the slides… huh?

If you have tandem wheels make sure to block/support both. Blocking up the tires would have not effects on the frame as it is no different than the the tires supporting weight sitting on the ground. Your frame is designed to support the weight of the trailer by your wheels and axles, not the four or six points of your leveling system. The leveling systems just fine tunes your coach to a level point. Never let your jacks raise one side or both tires off the ground. They are not designed to support that total weight... If you are parking on a slope, sometimes it may even be necessary to dig an approach trench on the high side for your RV tires to lower that side to a near level point. Do what ever it takes to get your RV as close to level as you can before deploying your leveling jacks.

[16WhiteColly]

I use this to level.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Hor...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==