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Old 10-11-2018, 06:24 AM   #11
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I usually leave the facets open/cracked so that any freezing/expansion that may occur will just push some air out of the lines. I've always done the blow out method and AF down all the p traps, but going to go with AF pumped thru the lines on our new TT. Lost a toilet valve on the old Class C so maybe I will get lucky with the new TT.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:07 AM   #12
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The antifreeze will gel up when it gets cold, and looks a lot like a Slushy, it has no strength like regular water. The temperature noted on the container is for pure antifreeze that has no added water. Any residual water in the lines reduces the freeze protection.

I have been using -50oF antifreeze. Where I store my TT, the typical low temp gets down to -30oF to -40oF. Because I am getting very close to the -50 mark, I blow out the lines to remove most of the water, to ensure the maximum protection. As noted above, any water mixed in the antifreeze will reduce your level of protection.

If I lived somewhere that got closer to the -50oF mark, I would choose an RV antifreeze with more protection.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:17 AM   #13
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The antifreeze will gel up when it gets cold, and looks a lot like a Slushy, it has no strength like regular water. The temperature noted on the container is for pure antifreeze that has no added water. Any residual water in the lines reduces the freeze protection.

I have been using -50oF antifreeze. Where I store my TT, the typical low temp gets down to -30oF to -40oF. Because I am getting very close to the -50 mark, I blow out the lines to remove most of the water, to ensure the maximum protection. As noted above, any water mixed in the antifreeze will reduce your level of protection.

If I lived somewhere that got closer to the -50oF mark, I would choose an RV antifreeze with more protection.
You must be talking wind chills which does not factor into these ratings. Not to many places ever see -30 to -40
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:19 AM   #14
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Prior comment that they can dilute antifreeze.

RV antifreeze is cheap, about $3 a gallon. My smaller trailer only needs about 1 1/2 gallon to get nice pink flow out of faucets, shower and toilet plus some to pour into sink, shower and toilet.

Just not enough savings to dilute. Plus my reason for using pink rv antifreeze is to dilute anything that a blowout might miss, condensate, etc.

The cost of a line or valve compared to antifreeze makes it worth it to both blow, pink it and blow again.

I also leave to valves open as previously mentioned. Condensation froze the exterior shower valve, what a mess to fix!
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:33 AM   #15
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You must be talking wind chills which does not factor into these ratings. Not to many places ever see -30 to -40
Oh, I wish, no those are actual temperatures! Last winter I went up to my parent's place which is just down the road from where I store the TT. When I got up, it was -39oF actual temperature. The truck was stiff, that day.

You have to come to the Ice Box of America. Coldest temperature on record in the state is -60oF recorded in Feb 1996. That particular day it was -32oF at my house in the Twin Cities, and the record low is -34oF.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:56 AM   #16
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I would think windchill factor does play into whether something will freeze or not even with the pink stuff. I had a water pipe freeze & burst on my house years ago. Pipe was located along the foundation wall just below the sill plate, and there was a very slight gap where the north wind would blow thru. Just happened to get down to around 0* that night and the wind was just a 10 mph or so IIRC. Happened on 12/23 with family coming in for xmas on the 25th. Plumber charged me $50 to do the repair back then. LOL.
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:09 AM   #17
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I would think windchill factor does play into whether something will freeze or not even with the pink stuff. I had a water pipe freeze & burst on my house years ago. Pipe was located along the foundation wall just below the sill plate, and there was a very slight gap where the north wind would blow thru. Just happened to get down to around 0* that night and the wind was just a 10 mph or so IIRC. Happened on 12/23 with family coming in for xmas on the 25th. Plumber charged me $50 to do the repair back then. LOL.
The only effect wind chill has on inanimate objects, such as car radiators and water pipes, is to more quickly cool the object to cool to the current air temperature. Object will NOT cool below the actual air temperature.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:18 AM   #18
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Sundancer, you need to move to Canada; we regularly get down that low several times each winter. Last year we had a full week stretch of deep freeze; killed my car battery but no problems with the trailer come spring.

Antifreeze itself does not expand when it freezes. Water is actually the only common substance that expands when it freezes (generally a solidification or crystallization phase change), almost every other substance known will shrink. I say almost; my chemistry teacher taught it was the only one, but there are probably other exceptions).
If there is water mixed in, the water will still expand, but this process is somewhat offset by the contraction of the glycol as it solidifies. Too much water in the mix, and the pipe can still burst.

Note that leaving faucets open isn't much protection as the surface exposed to air will often freeze first creating a plug. it is the pressure behind that then cracks the pipe.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:35 PM   #19
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Can anyone make sense of this?

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co....do?docId=1144


The burst point of an antifreeze is the temperature at which a sealed copper pipe filled with the undiluted product will burst. Burst points are a standard created by the plumbing industry in the 1930s to indicate the relative strength of antifreeze. They have since become synonymous with the name of antifreeze products used for winter storage. Burst points help consumers choose the proper product based on the lowest expected temperatures for their specific area.

A freeze point is the temperature at which ice crystals begin to form in the undiluted product. Freeze points are the measurements given when using refractometers and hydrometers. Note: most refractometers provide readings on both a PG and an EG scale, so it is important to use the PG reading when testing this product. Hydrometers are either made to provide PG or EG readings. It is critical to test this product with a hydrometer specifically designed to provide PG readings. Most hydrometers are purchased at auto supply stores and are designed for use with EG, so they cannot be used to test PG antifreeze. Keep in mind that it is normal to see readings that may vary by several degrees from the product's stated freeze point based on ambient temperature or the age of the product. For example, the freeze point of the -50F product is +12F, but it is not unusual to see readings in a range of +12F to +16F. Shake PG antifreeze well before testing as the heavier PG component may have settled toward the bottom.

Because the stored engine or water system is not in use, preventing ice crystals is not necessary, and to do so would require the use of a more expensive product with a higher PG content. As an example, the -50F antifreeze has a freeze point of +12F while the -100F antifreeze has a freeze point of -60F.

However, as the temperature drops the solution begins to solidify and expand, it puts pressure on pipes that can lead to damage. This is why it is important to select an antifreeze that will provide burst protection appropriate for a specific region's lowest anticipated temperatures. Products providing lower burst point temperatures contain higher concentrations of PG and are thus more expensive, but they will provide the protection needed in the event of extreme weather.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:39 PM   #20
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I don't need any schooling on antifreeze, if the label says -50 that works, I use air so I had no reason to read it, it looked pretty long winded.
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