What type of Anti-Freeze -50F or -100F

[homer1959]

Less than 10$, taking no more than 30mn to do ... so, what was the question again ?

[01tundra]

Star brite® Wintersafe -50°F (-46°C) Non-Toxic Antifreeze will provide burst protection to -50°F (-46°C) and freeze protection within a range of +14°F to +18°F (-10°C to -8°C).

When winterizing water systems with plastic pipes in regions where temperatures can fall below -10°F (-23°C), we recommend using Star brite® -100°F (-73°C) Non-Toxic Antifreeze.

[jimp]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

Can anyone make sense of this?

https://www.jamestowndistributors.co....do?docId=1144


The burst point of an antifreeze is the temperature at which a sealed copper pipe filled with the undiluted product will burst. Burst points are a standard created by the plumbing industry in the 1930s to indicate the relative strength of antifreeze. They have since become synonymous with the name of antifreeze products used for winter storage. Burst points help consumers choose the proper product based on the lowest expected temperatures for their specific area.

A freeze point is the temperature at which ice crystals begin to form in the undiluted product. Freeze points are the measurements given when using refractometers and hydrometers. Note: most refractometers provide readings on both a PG and an EG scale, so it is important to use the PG reading when testing this product. Hydrometers are either made to provide PG or EG readings. It is critical to test this product with a hydrometer specifically designed to provide PG readings. Most hydrometers are purchased at auto supply stores and are designed for use with EG, so they cannot be used to test PG antifreeze. Keep in mind that it is normal to see readings that may vary by several degrees from the product's stated freeze point based on ambient temperature or the age of the product. For example, the freeze point of the -50°F product is +12°F, but it is not unusual to see readings in a range of +12°F to +16°F. Shake PG antifreeze well before testing as the heavier PG component may have settled toward the bottom.

Because the stored engine or water system is not in use, preventing ice crystals is not necessary, and to do so would require the use of a more expensive product with a higher PG content. As an example, the -50°F antifreeze has a freeze point of +12°F while the -100°F antifreeze has a freeze point of -60°F.

However, as the temperature drops the solution begins to solidify and expand, it puts pressure on pipes that can lead to damage. This is why it is important to select an antifreeze that will provide burst protection appropriate for a specific region's lowest anticipated temperatures. Products providing lower burst point temperatures contain higher concentrations of PG and are thus more expensive, but they will provide the protection needed in the event of extreme weather.

copied from the jamestown link:
Because the stored engine or water system is not in use, preventing ice crystals is not necessary, and to do so would require the use of a more expensive product with a higher PG content. As an example, the -50°F antifreeze has a freeze point of +12°F while the -100°F antifreeze has a freeze point of -60°F.

Sounds like the -50* stuff don't work too well to me.

[vcbice]

I have only 'tested' the standard stuff down to -12F. No ill effects on plastic pipe.

If I lived in the more frigid regions of the world I would certainly look carefully at the different types of antifreeze.

Blowing out lines will get out a lot of the water, but, not all of it. I never used the method since I had no way of telling where some water might settle in the system.

[bubba4121]

Originally Posted by Packerbacker_TX

I'm a year into my new 5th wheel out here in the Pacific NW and last winter I was presented with this task. Camping World offered to "winterize" my 5'r for $120. I believe that consisted of draining some water and pouring $15 worth of anti-freeze down the drains. I'd read somewhere that you could simply blow the lines out with an air hose adapter and air pump. This made sense to me - hook up air pump, add pressure to the line and open the faucets until all the water goes down the drain. Then drain the water from the pipe and all you have left is Pex and PVC with nothing but air in the lines. It dropped down to freezing a few times and I had no problems. I'm starting to wonder why make the effort to adding anti-freeze in the lines if there's nothing to freeze in the first place?

Side note: We've got a tank-less water heater (vs. tank), so nothing to worry about there. Our rig also has an enclosed underbelly and it's rated for "seasonal" weather.

I was told a tankless water heater holds a small amount of water.

[DarrellD]

Originally Posted by oldmanAZ

This is the first I'VE heard about RV antifreeze expanding when freezing. People use RV antifreeze because it isn't supposed to expand when it freezes. I would think that if it's true, it would be all over the RV sites, including this one.

Do NOT use regular (automotive) anti-freeze as some seem to be doing, it's poisonous and does gel when cold unless mixed with water. Use antifreeze specifically for plumbing. This stuff is pink in colour and has a sweet smell to it, good for -50 degrees (at that temp it doesn't matter if it's celsius or fahrenheit) and is not harmful to use in potable water systems. It is not thick like automotive anti freeze, and it just looks like pink coloured water. Can be purchased in most hardware stores.
On my 2017 Jayco SLX, there is a clear plastic hose attached to the water pump located under the kitchen sink. There is also a valve in one of the water lines coming from the pump. Close that valve and the by-pass valves near the hot water tank(to divert any anti freeze from entering the hot water tank). Not necessary to put anti freeze in the hot water tank since it should have already been drained of water.
Next, put the clear plastic hose from the pump into a container of plumbing anti freeze and turn on the pump to fill the water lines. Open the water faucet(s) furthest from the pump, one at a time, until the exiting fluid shows pink (the anti freeze). Do this for all the remaining faucets, getting closer to the pump with the kitchen sink being the last one. Allow some of the anti freeze to drain into the traps.
Voila! Done for another winter.
I used to blow the water lines on my previous trailers, before the anti freeze, but have found it to be an unnecessary step.

[mdmlm2015]

I am new to rv'ing too. Where do you put the blower to blow the pipes?

[Stelewis]

You only have to do one or the other I use the antifreeze method. Use the t.v. antifreeze I get mine at tractor supply but any store like home depot or Lowe's should have too

[ifallsguy]

As Roger R said, USE 40PSI and no higher when blowing out lines. Remember, you are dealing with plastic lines and you don't want to blow a connection or a line.

[GrumpyDad]

Originally Posted by mdmlm2015

I am new to rv'ing too. Where do you put the blower to blow the pipes?

you connect to the city water connection. You need an air adapter, which is available from Wal mart or any rv parts place. Camco makes one.

[Midnightmoon]

Originally Posted by GrumpyDad

you connect to the city water connection. You need an air adapter, which is available from Wal mart or any rv parts place. Camco makes one.

Here is a link to the Camco adapter many of us use,

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-C.../dp/B002XL2IEA

[thenne1713]

My SIL has had a trailer for 10+ years, told me the one time he blew out lines w/ no antifreeze, a little water must have remained and cracked a faucet, requiring replacement, so he found it safer to use the RV antifreeze and not delay/ cancel a trip, or require unexpected repairs

[ifallsguy]

Make sure you have a faucet open before you apply air pressure. That way if you have too much pressure you have a relief.

[rvtravlr]

HI Edena; I live in the Canadian prairies where it gets down to -40 F degs in the winter.What i use is either rv anti freeze or plumbing anti freeze (it's the same stuff} that has a -50 rating and never have had any probs. Hope this helps.

[GrumpyDad]

Originally Posted by ifallsguy

Make sure you have a faucet open before you apply air pressure. That way if you have too much pressure you have a relief.

Good point, no need to take a risk with overpressure and no benefit to pressuring up the system anyway.

Originally Posted by rvtravlr

HI Edena; I live in the Canadian prairies where it gets down to -40 F degs in the winter.What i use is either rv anti freeze or plumbing anti freeze (it's the same stuff} that has a -50 rating and never have had any probs. Hope this helps.

Yep, I've never seen the -100 stuff, and people who use the -50 stuff report no issues even in the worst winters up here.

[Riich]

If everyone would just blow there lines out with air, you wouldn't worry about -50 or -100 protection. In every camper I have owned, I blew the lines out and left it at that. Yes, there may be traces of water in the lines, who cares, it isn't enough to expand and break lines.

It's no different than underground sprinklers, nobody uses antifreeze in them.

Blow the lines out, folks. Pink stuff down the drains, and quit the worrying.

No air compressor? Borrow the neighbors.

[norty1]

That may work if the freeze is not long. An extended freeze can damage valves and seals if even a drop is in there. I live in the south and we don't worry about it much but every now and then we get a long cold week or so.

I keep anti freeze on hand for that week.

Its going to be 29 here tonight, I plan to turn the furnace up and disconnect my water hose.

[Riich]

Originally Posted by norty1

That may work if the freeze is not long. An extended freeze can damage valves and seals if even a drop is in there. I live in the south and we don't worry about it much but every now and then we get a long cold week or so.

I keep anti freeze on hand for that week.

Its going to be 29 here tonight, I plan to turn the furnace up and disconnect my water hose.

My freeze is 4-5 months. To freeze is to freeze. Period. I stand by my advice. Blow your lines out.

To clarify, this is for guys storing their campers over the winter. For you guys getting chili in a campground down south for a couple of days, please disregard.

[Rice1951]

Using compressed air works well on systems that incorporate faucets, toilets and showers. On more complex systems that use a valve control arrangement, fridge with ice maker, washing machine or other devices that use an electrically operated valve then you are going to want to use RV antifreeze. Always follow the manufacturer instructions for winterizing a particular appliance as some do not recommend using compressed air. Truma does not recommend using RV antifreeze in its tankless WH so you need to pay attention to each manufacturer. It can be a complex process to properly winterize an RV, especially if you’re doing it for the first time. Use the method that works for you.

[Riich]

Originally Posted by Rice1951

Using compressed air works well on systems that incorporate faucets, toilets and showers. On more complex systems that use a valve control arrangement, fridge with ice maker, washing machine or other devices that use an electrically operated valve then you are going to want to use RV antifreeze. Always follow the manufacturer instructions for winterizing a particular appliance as some do not recommend using compressed air. Truma does not recommend using RV antifreeze in its tankless WH so you need to pay attention to each manufacturer. It can be a complex process to properly winterize an RV, especially if you’re doing it for the first time. Use the method that works for you.

I gotcha. I guess I didn't know systems were that complex. How do you get that antifreeze taste out of an ice maker though?