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Old 10-03-2011, 11:41 AM   #1
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Winterizing question for new owner

I've been studying both "wet" and "dry" methods of winterizing my new rv but cant seem to find the answer to a specific question. If I am using air rather than running rv antifreeze through everything, what about the fresh water pump? Will attaching an adapter to the fresh water tank fill clear all water from the pump or do I really need to run antifreeze through it? I was planning on antifreeze in all traps and the holding tanks even using air only.
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:57 PM   #2
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I would suck at least a little antifreeze through your pump.

Good luck
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:18 AM   #3
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Run the pump dry.

RV Winterizing….Blowing Out the Lines Method.

You will need an air compressor or some source of air with an air hose.
An air hose chuck.
Compressed air adapter. (blowout plug)
And less then a gal. of RV antifreeze.

1. Drain fresh water tank, close valve.
2. Drain hot water heater replace drain plug.
3. Dump and (flush if possible) both black and gray water holding tanks, leave gray water valve open.
4. Turn the pump on and open a faucet to run the pump dry. Turn pump off.
5. Screw compressed air adaptor into the fresh water inlet. The adapter is available from Camping World or most RV dealers.
6. Apply compressed air, keeping the pressure at 30 PSI but less than 40 PSI. You may need someone to hold the air hose on the adapter.
7. Open then close each faucet, hot and cold, one valve at a time, allowing the compressed air to force the water out of the line. Don't forget the shower and toilet and outside shower. Remove and replace the ice maker hose on the outside if equipped. Open both low point drains and close.
8. Remove the drain plug from the hot water tank and allow the compressed air to blow out the remaining water. Reinstall drain plug.
9. Remove the compressed air source and adapter.
10. Close gray tank valve.
11. Pour a few cups of RV antifreeze down each drain and toilet.
12. You’re done.
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:12 PM   #4
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hammerdown,
any specifics on which faucet to start with - the farthest from water inlet or closest one to the inlet? Or maybe it doesn't matter?? Just remembering the principles of bleeding brake lines (seems to be a similar process - remove water instead of air) - always start as far away from master cylinder and work closer. Just curious..
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Old 10-04-2011, 03:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gma-n-Gpa View Post
hammerdown,
any specifics on which faucet to start with - the farthest from water inlet or closest one to the inlet? Or maybe it doesn't matter?? Just remembering the principles of bleeding brake lines (seems to be a similar process - remove water instead of air) - always start as far away from master cylinder and work closer. Just curious..
I don't think it matters, but I do the closes first.
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Old 10-05-2011, 09:07 PM   #6
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If you release your low-point cold water drain and open the PT valve on the hot water tank, you can drain the hot water tank without removing the drain plug. It's a longer process, but it's one less tool to use. My previous camper had a "Hot Rod" installed, which made removing the drain plug a very difficult process. This siphon method worked very well for years.
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:23 PM   #7
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Thanks all for the information!
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