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Old 10-26-2015, 07:13 PM   #1
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Yes...I drilled a hole in the rear of my camper

Our Eagle is a rear living model with a table/cabinet located between the 2 chairs that houses the city water inlet and pull out power cord storage. First, I wanted to do a detachable power cord mod, and secondly in the same area, install a 15amp auxiliary power inlet to run things like a second ceramic heater straight off the pedestal. I e-mailed Jayco for the rear wall schematics and had them in 2 days. Great customer service from Allen. There was already an outlet on the left side of the table for the lamp. I cut down the divider and relocated the existing power cord electrical box for more room. After removing the table top, I cut it 3" from the wall and then hinged it for easy access with the 3'' part securely fastened to the wall and the main table top has out of sight hinges to hold it down. All products are from Marinco. The newer detachable power cords are twist 'n' lock and the main lock ring is no longer a screw on to avoid cross threading as it too twist locks in it's own channel for a secure fit. Total price for mods was around $150 and that includes a 1&7/8 hole saw and a roll of Dicor butyl tape which I found to be more effective than the gaskets supplied with the power cord assembly.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-26-2015, 07:28 PM   #2
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I Like It.
Nice Job.
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:04 PM   #3
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Nicely done. Very clean mod.[emoji482]
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:08 PM   #4
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Looks great, I want to do the detachable power cord but just haven't gotten to it yet.
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:42 PM   #5
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I like what you've done for a new power source for your heater. I'll be thinking about your install all night and see how I can install one on mine. On second thought even thou it's raining I'm going out now and take a look. Thanks for sharing that great idea.
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:30 AM   #6
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Has anyone done this mod on a aluminum sided TT?
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Old 10-27-2015, 08:42 AM   #7
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That looks very neat. However, in my HT 26.5 RLS, the table between the chairs also has the water pump so there is not near as much "clean" space as what you are showing. I am interested in the detachable power cord. Is there a kit that can be used or does a person just have to "cut and splice" to get this done? I have had a couple of times where the cords got so tangled up that I had to take off the plate to be able to reach in and get it un-tangled.
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jal0710 View Post
I am interested in the detachable power cord. Is there a kit that can be used or does a person just have to "cut and splice" to get this done? I have had a couple of times where the cords got so tangled up that I had to take off the plate to be able to reach in and get it un-tangled.
Here's the kit I used for the power cord. It comes with adapter plates if needed, which I did. Here's the receptacle for the 15 amp aux power inlet. You don't use all the stuff you get with the conversion kit. Pull the cord out all the way and cut it leaving about a foot to work with. Inside access is not needed for this mod as everything can be done outside. I needed inside access to wire up my 15 amp aux power inlet. Amazon has all this as well.
Marinco Parkpower Detachable Power Cord Conversion Kit 30 Amp RV camper 30ARVKIT | eBay
Parkpower on Board Charger Inlet 15 Amp 150BBIW RV | eBay
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Old 10-27-2015, 12:42 PM   #9
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Has anyone done this mod on a aluminum sided TT?
If you're talking about the power cord conversion, I've seen many detachable cords on aluminum sided trailers. Kit comes with everything needed. If you're talking about the 15amp aux power mod, the hole saw I bought is bi-metal so I think it would make a clean cut through the aluminum. It went through my fiberglass like butter. I pre-drilled a small hole first just to make sure I wasn't going to hit anything I shouldn't even though I had the schematic of the rear wall. Also made it easier to line up the hole saw. I gotta tell you I was a little nervous drilling a hole in the camper but it was over in 3 seconds.
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Old 10-27-2015, 01:41 PM   #10
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Nice! I had a similar setup on my last rig which was 30a. I ran the extra 15a feed to a outlet near the water heater which allowed me to plug the water heater in if I had the 15a feed. This saved me from over loading the inside breaker panel.

Cutting the big hole sure make you pucker. I used a stud finder but it was still a tense moment.
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:19 AM   #11
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Does that kit come with a plug for the longer part of the cord to plug into the trailer connection???
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Old 10-28-2015, 02:21 PM   #12
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Does that kit come with a plug for the longer part of the cord to plug into the trailer connection???
Yes. The entire process is quite easy. Pull your cord all the way out of the "mousehole" opening. Measure about 1 ft from the mousehole and cut the cord. On the long part of the cord, slip the large yellow boot on first, then the female end of the connection gets wired on there. It's all color coded [black, green, white so it's hard to screw up], then the large yellow boot slides over the female end and you're done with the detachable end. A soapy water solution makes it easier to slide the boot over the cord. Next step is to remove the actual mousehole cover that's still attached to the trailer and slip it off the 1 ft section of cord still attached. Wire the 1 ft section to the male cover that takes the place of the old mousehole cover. Now you only have to cram 1ft of cord back into the trailer as you attach the new male cover to the trailer, usually 3 screws. If you don't have any Butyl tape, try and save what came off with your mousehole. There is some wire stripping involved but the entire process shouldn't take more than an hour. Kit comes with instructions. Lot's of good reviews if you look on Amazon.
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Old 10-29-2015, 08:38 AM   #13
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Thanks, tcnashville, for all the info.
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