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Old 03-29-2017, 11:58 PM   #21
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If I calculate with my son's current weight plus his car seat, we are at 335.
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:04 AM   #22
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If I calculate with my son's current weight plus his car seat, we are at 335.
Take a look in the towing section of the manual. They may have accounted for the driver or at least 150 lbs which can be applied to your calculations. It would be nice if there was a set formula for how they come up with cargo capacity but every manufacturer does it differently.

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Old 03-30-2017, 12:44 PM   #23
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Take a look in the towing section of the manual. They may have accounted for the driver or at least 150 lbs which can be applied to your calculations. It would be nice if there was a set formula for how they come up with cargo capacity but every manufacturer does it differently.

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My manual says "Towing capacities are calculated assuming a base vehicle with driver and any options required to achieve the rating. Additional passengers, cargo and/or optional equipment, such as the trailer hitch, will add weight to the vehicle and reduce your vehicle's maximum towing capacity and trailer tongue load."
Which is what you all have been so kindly trying to explain to my exhausted mama brain. So the driver (usually my husband) doesn't count, but it doesn't say how much he gets to weigh. And the running boards which we added Do count (and I have no idea how much they weigh), as does the as yet unpurchased hitch. How can I figure this out?
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:47 PM   #24
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The only real way is to take your truck, with you and your husband in it to the nearest CAT scale, pay the 7 bucks to have your vehicle weighed.

Subtract that weight from the GVWR of your vehicle, and you will know *exactly* how much remaining cargo capacity you have. To get the best results, make sure you have a full tank of gas, and you've got the same people, and gear that you would normally take with you on a camping trip.

For towing capacitys that say they account for a driver - I believe it's usually a 150 lb driver.
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Old 03-30-2017, 12:51 PM   #25
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You may have to look under "cargo" or "payload capacity" in the manual to find how much they factor the driver to weigh. I believe that 150 pounds is the usual and customary number, at least it is with Ford. Advertised "towing capacities" are almost useless numbers. Its the cargo or payload capacity weight that is the important numbers to know. But, no one at the dealer tells you that.
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Old 03-30-2017, 01:11 PM   #26
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My manual says "Towing capacities are calculated assuming a base vehicle with driver and any options required to achieve the rating. Additional passengers, cargo and/or optional equipment, such as the trailer hitch, will add weight to the vehicle and reduce your vehicle's maximum towing capacity and trailer tongue load."
Which is what you all have been so kindly trying to explain to my exhausted mama brain. So the driver (usually my husband) doesn't count, but it doesn't say how much he gets to weigh. And the running boards which we added Do count (and I have no idea how much they weigh), as does the as yet unpurchased hitch. How can I figure this out?
As we have been saying they normally consider a driver 150lbs. Running boards are a little harder. Maybe you can find them for sale online somewhere that will list the shipping weight for a ball park estimate. If you want to guess I would say 50-100lbs depending on how long they are and material. The same goes for the hitch but you don't know what you are going to get for a hitch. I normally use 80lbs for a ball park guess but this is for the bigger Class IV hitches that we need with the bigger Travel Trailer. If you are realistically going to be limited to a popup I don't know what the requirement is before you need a WD hitch and it may depend on your vehicle. For instance I have an aluminum utility trailer. We have a big yard so I have one of the big John Deere commercial zero turn mowers (Z950R) with collection system. When you add that to the mower you have to run a bunch of suitcase weights. The total weight of the this system is going to be pretty close to a loaded out popup camper. Now it is my personal mower so it isn't like I drive all over the place with it but I do load it up with a gas cart when doing fuel runs. It is also a 60 mile round trip to the dealer if going in for warranty service. I don't use a WD hitch with this. Just my regular Class III hitch but my truck is much bigger and probably can take more weight on the hitch receiver without a WD setup. It also has load leveling air suspension.



In your case are you still trying to work out something in a small travel trailer or are you leaning toward popup?
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Old 03-30-2017, 01:51 PM   #27
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One additional thing to look for in the manual. It should indicate at what tongue weight they recommend using a Weight Distributing Hitch. For my TV it is 500 lbs TW. If you go with a pop-up, I would suggest you simply do a straight weight bearing hitch (no WDH or sway needed). The tongue weight will likely be well below 500 lbs, and susceptibility to sway is lower in a pup (lower CG and less exposure to wind). I pulled a pup for years without WDH, only stepping up when we moved to a hybrid. Once the trailer gets bigger and you get closer to weight bearing capacity of the hitch, you should consider WDH and anti-sway.

To be honest, with 880 lbs. of payload, you're going to be in a very lightweight camper. Don't forget that the kid grows, and wants to bring more stuff along as he does.
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Old 03-30-2017, 03:55 PM   #28
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I would prefer a travel trailer over a popup if possible. In Starcraft, the lightest weights are (GVWR, UVW, Dry Hitch weight):
Launch Mini
16rb (double bunk hybrid) 3,500 - 2,925 - 300
17bh 3,500 - 3,065 - 340
Autumn Ridge Mini
15rb 3,200 - 2,615 - 220 (This one has a pop out bed only in the rear, so we would have to make the front table into his bed)

In Jayco the lightest are:
Jay Flight
154bh 3,200, 2,555, 325 (has a table instead of a queen bed)
174bh 3,500, 2,945, 280

If we could get any of these it would be great. And if possible, we would like to add the Extreme or Baja package, and I assume that would increase the dry weight and the hitch weight, but I'm not sure if it would increase the GVWR?
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:22 PM   #29
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Did anybody look at the spreadsheet I linked to? Seriously, put the number's from your doorjamb in the spreadsheet, fill out the other boxes, and you'll know a lot. Get on the CAT Scale and update the spreadsheet and you'll know everything you could want.

The only thing it doesn't do is GAWR, but that's easy peasy if you take it to a CAT Scale.
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Old 03-30-2017, 04:34 PM   #30
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Did anybody look at the spreadsheet I linked to? Seriously, put the number's from your doorjamb in the spreadsheet, fill out the other boxes, and you'll know a lot. Get on the CAT Scale and update the spreadsheet and you'll know everything you could want.

The only thing it doesn't do is GAWR, but that's easy peasy if you take it to a CAT Scale.
I sent it to hubby!
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Old 03-30-2017, 05:02 PM   #31
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Did anybody look at the spreadsheet I linked to?
I definitely did. I plan on using it too
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Old 03-30-2017, 05:42 PM   #32
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I And if possible, we would like to add the Extreme or Baja package, and I assume that would increase the dry weight and the hitch weight, but I'm not sure if it would increase the GVWR?
Our 195RB with Baja has an increase in GVWR to 3750. I suspect that there is a similar increase for other Baja models. That isn't listed on Jaycos web site for some reason.

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Old 04-01-2017, 02:34 PM   #33
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I looked at individual dealer websites to try to find the weight specs on a Jay Flight 154bh baja edition (because that has bigger black and gray tanks than the Starcraft Autumn Ridge Mini 15rb), and what I found did not totally make sense. The dry weight was increased by 100 pounds, but the hitch weight was decreased by twenty pounds. And the water tank sizes were different than what the Jayco website lists on either the regular or the baja versions. Is that shady?
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Old 04-01-2017, 03:23 PM   #34
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A heavier camper can easily have a lighter tongue weight than lighter camper depending on how the weight is distributed in the unit.

If those bigger tanks are located at, or behind the axle of the camper, it will reduce the tongue weight. It's just like one of those see/saws at the play ground. The axle is the pivot point. Weight in front of it - increases tongue weight... while weight behind it, will decrease it.

The important thing is that you stick to the 10 to 15 % rule. It would be pretty easy to only have 5% of the trailers weight on the tongue if everything is loaded in the back.
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Old 04-01-2017, 03:37 PM   #35
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As for personal observations regarding towing with an Xterra, I suggest you search my postings about my experiences with a 4x4 Xterra v-6 pulling a 145Rb SLX baja edition.
And it's not about the weight involved, it's about the wind resistance of the big box being pulled behind the Xterra. We were forced to upgrade to a v-6 Toyota Tacoma which has the same displacement as the Xterra, but with an additional 1000 lbs. tow rating when compared to the Xterra. And don't misunderstand the Xterra is a great 4x4!!, but the additional tow capacity of the Tacoma is noticeable. Also, research your stated axle ratio, as a 3.73 axle is "reasonably" well suited for towing. To add to possible confusion, the larger (bigger) the number for the axle ratio, the easier towing becomes, until you then hit the limitations of highway speeds and fuel usage. So...just more food for thought.
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