Newbie to the RV world

[Louie79]

We have been been wanting an rv for a long time. But when we decided to build our dream home, selling our current home is needed. Saying that, our want for a rv became a need. We are the new owners of a Jayco 284BHSW. We will taking delivery shortly. We have some questions.

1) how long of a power can I use? Of course 30amp. This leads into how long of a sewer pipe can we use? We are trying to determine where to put rv. Main receptacle was mounted to powerline pole below breaker just for the rv. septic system and power pole are close but probably 100-120ft apart.

2) while we opted to stay with a more basic rv to save money, the 284bhsw doesn't have a black water flush. I'm assuming I will need to use a macerator to "break" it all up and just flush a bunch? Let the tank fill or let drain constantly?

We haven't ruled out the idea of just renting a spot at an rv park for the needed six months. But still need to know about power distances and the black water storage or constantly drain procedure. Thanks.

[RAurand]

If you hooked up 3" PVC pipe to run your sewer and grey water tanks to the sewer cleanout of the house, you will need about a 25" (inch) drop per 100 feet of pipe run.
Check zoning regulations, some towns do not allow you to empty your sewer tank into house sewer cleanouts. I have a 50' (foot) 30Amp RV Extension cord that I have used on occasion when my trailer power cord could not reach the campground 30 amp pedestal. Didn't have any issues.

[RayPayne]

Provided you use a heavier gauge, you can go quite a distance for power. When using the RV as a base for a project I was doing, I plugged in just under 250' from where I parked. I figured being closer to sewer was less problematic. Long sewer hose made of PVC will cost you a lot less that heavy gauge power cables will as a rule. I used 4 gauge wire if memory serves. The voltage drop over the distance was less than 4 volts and still well within the range it should be.

[Louie79]

We will out in the country, so don't think we have any restrictions. But will check just to be safe. Thank you both for the advice.

What are yalls thoughts on macerators? Beneficial? Waste of money? Should I fill black tank then flush or let it continously flow into septic? The less I have to deal with "****" the better.

[The Logans]

Never leave the black connection open... NEVER! Everything gets clogged up, as a bunch of flowing water is needed to properly flush everything out of the pipe and connections. On top of that, sewer gas and rats... yes, rats, can come back up the pipe into the tank.

Follow the standard routine of dumping the black tank when it gets about three quarters full, flush the black tank (install an after market tank flusher) then close the black valve and dump the gray tank. Dumping the gray tank after showering is great as the hot soapy water helps clean out the hose.

[RAurand]

Originally Posted by Louie79

We will out in the country, so don't think we have any restrictions. But will check just to be safe. Thank you both for the advice.

What are yalls thoughts on macerators? Beneficial? Waste of money? Should I fill black tank then flush or let it continously flow into septic? The less I have to deal with "****" the better.

I have a macerator
(FloJet RV Waste Pump Kit - Xylem 18555000A - Drain & Flush Systems - Camping World

Shop around and you might find better pricing other than CW. I use it when coming home from dry camping/Boondocking to empty my tanks. I use a 3/4 inch hose and it is good for 50-60 feet and works well for me. I would not run the hose any longer than that or you might have jamming problems inside the hose. I do have a black tank flush and hook up another hose to that and really clean out the tank when we get home, However, if you are living in the trailer continuously, I would just empty the tank when it gets full. Same with the grey water tank. Like The Logans stated above.... Keep the valves closed until the tank is almost full then empty it, you get a cleaner empty tank doing it that way.

[Mustang65]

CONGRATULATIONS on the JAYCO!!!

...and WELCOME TO JOF!!! The members here are GREAT!!! There is a lot of GREAT information to be found here. I am sure that you will have information and pictures to share with us... so please do!!

Looks like you already received some good advice.

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[Louie79]

I'm loving all info. Been surfing thru the upgrade see room seeing what in all everyone is doing. A few things right off the bat will be shocks and frame support for the main bed. Another is the compartment above microwave opening it up. Most use it for bread as we will probably do as well. And going with a digital thermostat. I'm already looking at different stabilize Jacks and a back up 📷 system.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

[Subaru297]

If you can't get a nice downhill run to the sewer then you will need a macerator. And this might also be easier than setting up a long run of pipe or hoses. I would do a cost comparison if both methods are suitable from the trailers location

And as stated above don't leave your black tank valve open as the "Stuff" will dry out and leave a hard mess in your tank.

Long power cord should be fine. If you have any big loads like the air conditioner or something you should check your line voltage while under load to make sure you aren't getting too much voltage sag. Also check connections for heat while under load.

Cheers

[LiftedAWDAstro]

Personally, I would park close to the septic connection and then run power to the RV. For some reason, having a clog in my sewer line is much less appealing to me than the added expense of running power. I would look at putting a temporary pole near the where the RV will be parked and get a length to direct burial #8-2 UF at Lowes. Then put a 30 amp RV power outlet on a post.