Ready to fill out credit app on 2018 284BHS

[gunner18]

Hi. My wife, 2 kids, 1 dog and I are ready for our first travel trailer or camper of any kind for that matter. We shopped all day Saturday and liked the Jayco 284BHS the best. Probably a little big for our first one but the price is right and the wife really likes the layout and room inside. Our kids are 4 and 2 and are really excited about camping.

Im definitely concerned about the quality as Ive heard and read a lot of horror stories. I am a mechanic and certainly am not afraid to fix things myself but also don't want a $20,000 POS. I will be buying from a local family owned dealer that is literally 5 minutes from my house so I hope warranty repairs won't be to much of a headache. Im so new to everything and have a lot to learn. I will definitely use the PDI checklist as best I can when taking delivery. I will be towing with a 2014 Ram crew cab 1500. 5.7 8 speed with 3.21 gears. Wish i had the 3.55s but from what I've read on the ram forums i should be ok. Ill take any tips or pointers anybody wants to throw at me. Like maybe sway and weight distribution?
Thanks!

[nevermind]

Originally Posted by gunner18

Im definitely concerned about the quality as Ive heard and read a lot of horror stories. I am a mechanic and certainly am not afraid to fix things myself but also don't want a $20,000 POS.

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I will be buying from a local family owned dealer that is literally 5 minutes from my house so I hope warranty repairs won't be to much of a headache.

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Like maybe sway and weight distribution?
Thanks!

Your choice looks great for your family size!!!



If something doesn't look right/straight/assembled properly, ask for another camper. That is the only way you can avoid a messed up one from the get-go.
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Anything that needs to be fixed after initial inspection has to be done before you sign on the dotted line. No exceptions.
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Research WD hitches, you'll need one with that 1500. Find out which one has the fewest annoying features and make sure they have that one installed on the trailer before or as you are signing on the dotted line. My Camping World store didn't have the one I wanted and I had to settle for second best.
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My sales peep kept touting the lengthy Jayco warranty, saying "Best in the Industry". The only "warranty" you get directly from Jayco is on the Jayco manufactured items. Chassis, sidewalls, roof, windows, doors, cabinetry and some furnishings. All other warranties are through the manufacturer of the item.

[Midnightmoon]

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your soon to be new Jayco.

Are you buying from Huffy's?

[gunner18]

Originally Posted by nevermind

Your choice looks great for your family size!!!


Research WD hitches, you'll need one with that 1500. Find out which one has the fewest annoying features and make sure they have that one installed on the trailer before or as you are signing on the dotted line. My Camping World store didn't have the one I wanted and I had to settle for second best.

I was thinking the anderson? BTW i will never go to a camping world ever again they tried to push a trailer about 1,000lbs over my trucks towing capacity just.

[ttavasc]

First off - welcome to the forum! Lots of great folks and information here. Being a '14 RAM 1500 owner myself I would recommend that you verify the payload for your specific truck in order to make sure that it is sufficient for the trailer you are looking at. RAM 1500's have some of the lower payload numbers, especially the larger cab configurations and higher trim levels - I know as I have one of those lower payload models. Look on the drivers door jamb for the tire and loading sticker - the phrase "the combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX lbs". That will tell you what your truck can carry as delivered from the factory. Post that number back here and that will help others provide better and more accurate feedback.

You need 10-15% of the loaded trailer weight for tongue weight. The trailer you are looking at has a GVWR of 7500 which could mean upwards of 1000lbs of tongue weight or more. Your truck needs to carry the tongue weight plus the weight of all occupants and additional cargo you put in the truck. If you've added other items such as a hard bed cover/topper, side steps, bed-liner, etc. after purchase the weight of those items needs to be subtracted from the payload as well. It's also good subtract 75-100lbs for the weight distributing hitch as well. With a family of 4 plus the pooch this could be close to if not over the payload capacity of the truck. You may need to look at a lighter weight model to stay within the available payload.

The other thing I see is that trailer is almost 34' long. The RAM 1500 crew cab has a 149.5" wheel base which is a little on the short side for that long of a trailer. Below is a little rule of thumb chart for matching trailer length and wheel base. You might also want to look for something around 28-30' as well.

[gunner18]

Originally Posted by midnightmoon

welcome to the forum and congratulations on your soon to be new jayco.

Are you buying from huffy's?

yes

[Midnightmoon]

Originally Posted by gunner18

yes

My 2017 came from there. Great people to deal with and my trailer came from there prepped perfectly. The only time I have been back was for a recall on the LED interior lights. The owner, secretary, and the guys in the service department are top notch.

I use an Anderson Hitch with my 22BHM. I pull it both with my Ram 2500 Cummins and my F150 and the hitch is very easily adjustable for use with both. My trailer sits at almost exactly 800# tongue weight ready to camp and the Anderson works extremely well at that level. I have no feedback on a unit that approaches that 1000# mark however.

[gunner18]

Originally Posted by ttavasc

First off - welcome to the forum! Lots of great folks and information here. Being a '14 RAM 1500 owner myself I would recommend that you verify the payload for your specific truck in order to make sure that it is sufficient for the trailer you are looking at. RAM 1500's have some of the lower payload numbers, especially the larger cab configurations and higher trim levels - I know as I have one of those lower payload models. Look on the drivers door jamb for the tire and loading sticker - the phrase "the combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX lbs". That will tell you what your truck can carry as delivered from the factory. Post that number back here and that will help others provide better and more accurate feedback.

You need 10-15% of the loaded trailer weight for tongue weight. The trailer you are looking at has a GVWR of 7500 which could mean upwards of 1000lbs of tongue weight or more. Your truck needs to carry the tongue weight plus the weight of all occupants and additional cargo you put in the truck. If you've added other items such as a hard bed cover/topper, side steps, bed-liner, etc. after purchase the weight of those items needs to be subtracted from the payload as well. It's also good subtract 75-100lbs for the weight distributing hitch as well. With a family of 4 plus the pooch this could be close to if not over the payload capacity of the truck. You may need to look at a lighter weight model to stay within the available payload.

The other thing I see is that trailer is almost 34' long. The RAM 1500 crew cab has a 149.5" wheel base which is a little on the short side for that long of a trailer. Below is a little rule of thumb chart for matching trailer length and wheel base. You might also want to look for something around 28-30' as well.

So towing capacity on my truck is 7850, payload is 1326. Tongue weight on the 284 was 695. We were also considering the 267BHS but liked the layout in the 284 better. The tongue weight in the 284 is only 30lbs heavier then the 267 but the length would probably be better for my truck. I was hoping with a good sway and weight distribution system it would help with the short wheel base and tongue weight.

[robkelly]

Congratulations and welcome! We started out with a TT about the size of yours and the best advice we got was to take everything slow and easy. I like to pass that advice along as it worked out great for us.

[ttavasc]

Originally Posted by gunner18

So towing capacity on my truck is 7850, payload is 1326. Tongue weight on the 284 was 695. We were also considering the 267BHS but liked the layout in the 284 better. The tongue weight in the 284 is only 30lbs heavier then the 267 but the length would probably be better for my truck. I was hoping with a good sway and weight distribution system it would help with the short wheel base and tongue weight.

The 695 tongue weight is the "dry" weight which doesn't include propane or batteries, etc. Actual tongue weight even when empty is always more than this "dry" weight as delivered from the factory. Once loaded for camping it will be even higher. Most folks will use a rule of thumb to estimate tongue weight based on the GVWR of the trailer. I personally use 12.5% - others may tend more towards 15%. This helps leave some "wiggle" room as to some degree you can control overall trailer weight based on how much you load in it. But you don't want to go too light on the tongue weight as that will quickly become an unstable towing situation which is why most folks try and stay in the 12-15% range of loaded trailer weight.

Let's say you load the trailer up to 7000lbs, 500 short of it's GVWR. 12.5% of that will be 875 tongue weight. Assume you use the Andersen No-Sway that Midnightmoon suggested - I use that hitch as well - that's another 60lb. Use 75-100 for a more traditional weight distributing hitch. Subtract those from your 1326 payload and you have 391lbs left for passengers, the pooch and any other cargo you plan to carry in the truck. You starting to run low on payload.

Take a look at the numbers - make some reasonable estimates as to how much payload you will need to carry the passengers and other cargo in the truck and see where things land. My feeling is something in the 6000-6500lb GVWR is probably going to work better from a overall weight perspective.

[gunner18]

Originally Posted by ttavasc

The 695 tongue weight is the "dry" weight which doesn't include propane or batteries, etc. Actual tongue weight even when empty is always more than this "dry" weight as delivered from the factory. Once loaded for camping it will be even higher. Most folks will use a rule of thumb to estimate tongue weight based on the GVWR of the trailer. I personally use 12.5% - others may tend more towards 15%. This helps leave some "wiggle" room as to some degree you can control overall trailer weight based on how much you load in it. But you don't want to go too light on the tongue weight as that will quickly become an unstable towing situation which is why most folks try and stay in the 12-15% range of loaded trailer weight.

Let's say you load the trailer up to 7000lbs, 500 short of it's GVWR. 12.5% of that will be 875 tongue weight. Assume you use the Andersen No-Sway that Midnightmoon suggested - I use that hitch as well - that's another 60lb. Use 75-100 for a more traditional weight distributing hitch. Subtract those from your 1326 payload and you have 391lbs left for passengers, the pooch and any other cargo you plan to carry in the truck. You starting to run low on payload.

Take a look at the numbers - make some reasonable estimates as to how much payload you will need to carry the passengers and other cargo in the truck and see where things land. My feeling is something in the 6000-6500lb GVWR is probably going to work better from a overall weight perspective.

Thanks. This is why I posted before committing 100% to this trailer.

[Midnightmoon]

Originally Posted by gunner18

Thanks. This is why I posted before committing 100% to this trailer.

Please let us know if you have any more questions. All of us here will be more than happy to help. Since we are so close, if you need anything specific, setting up your hitch once you eventually purchase, etc. please let me know. If we aren't traveling, I'll be happy to give you a hand.

[sasiki]

I was in a similar position in January. I have an Expedition with towing capacity of 9000lb and payload of 1500lb, and was looking for a camper. We have a 9, 7 and 4 year old so bunk house and slide was a must. I had towed a 26ft (30ft total length) camper before so I knew I didn't want to go any bigger than that without having an expensive 3/4 ton truck. We settled on a 267bhs and are happy with it. We like the sink outside the bathroom so we can help the smaller two brush their teeth while someone else is in the shower. The table is also in a good position for when they want to watch it while eating.

The 267bhsw is all "I" want to tow with a half ton vehicle.

[Mustang65]

gnner18, what is your TV's rear axle ratio?
Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[John from Central Florida]

Originally Posted by gunner18

Probably a little big for our first one

Gunner,

My guess is you'll be gad you went larger than you first thought!

Welcome to team Jayco!

[ttavasc]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

gnner18, what is your TV's rear axle ratio?
Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

I believe I saw the OP state he had the 3.21 gears which isn't surprising. I couldn't find a 3.92 gears on any of lots when I was looking for mine. It does limit the tow capacity to around 8k though.

[gunner18]

Originally Posted by mustang65

gnner18, what is your tv's rear axle ratio?
Don

my registry

rving with solar

3.21

[Iraq 69]

Congrats and welcome to the Zoo from MO

[upinthemountains2009]

Welcome and enjoy the new trailer if you make it happen!

If you are looking for a good WD hitch, I recommend an Equilizer with 4 point sway control. They have great prices on retailer.com. It’s super easy to install and you don’t need to drill your trailer frame.

Second, make sure you do the math properly on your towing capacity. You have to include gear, passengers, water, fuel, cargo and such (in the truck too) into the equation. There are some good videos on YouTube and even a true tow capacity calculator in excel form floating around online. It will calculate hitch weight, tow capacity and everything based specifically on our vehicle and trailer specs. Better safe than sorry.

Again, enjoy the trailer!

[2edgesword]

The weight breakdown ttavasc gave you is a much more realistic estimate than going with the published dry hitch weight. Adding in passengers and “stuff” will bring you very close to the max payload for the truck. If you’re someone that likes to have a buffer between the actual and maximum numbers you’re either going to have to sacrifice on the floor plan or consider a tow vehicle upgrade. If your wife is anything like my wife the sacrifice was going to be on my part in upgrade the truck (she really wanted that walk around queen bed and shower she could move around in).

Another aspect to consideration is the types of trips you’ll be making with the family. If they’re going to be short journeys over flat terrain (100 miles or less) to local campgrounds then being close to the maximums isn’t as much of an issue versus making regular 500 mile trips where you’ll be doing a lot of hill climbing.

I’m not talking about compromising safety but compromising towing comfort. A loss of some comfort during a two hour trip is a lot different than spending days on the road in an uncomfortable driving situation.

For a host of reasons I ended up getting a 2012 F250 regular cab to pull our new 8,800 lbs trailer. It has zero creature comforts, not even power windows and door locks, and it drives like a truck. Since our drive to our favorite campsite is one hour we gladly deal with the lack of creature comforts to spend days in the trailer we really like. We’ve may occasionally “suffer” through a four or five hour drive but we’re willing to compromise on the truck and the types of trips we take to get the trailer we really wanted.