What Did You Do To Your RV TODAY?

[oldmanAZ]

Unpacked and re-winterized after a weekend camping trip to see son, DIL, and 2 grandsons.

[Bookemdanno]

Originally Posted by blujay40

It was the DW's idea, but she said go ahead!

Great job Bluejay! I'm not showing the DW, or this would be my next mod!


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[Big1]

Oh yeah I also install a Oxygenics shower head, and have the rvlock coming.

[Aardvarkjff]

I replaced the cam lock on the outside shower so it is keyed alike with my other Bauer keys on the unit.

[Woodworker]

After 9+ hours later the new Dish Tailgater and Wally box finally made friends and are up and running. 4" PVC painted black and mounted to back bumper to store the drain line in instead of using bumper

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[dartwest]

Originally Posted by dartwest

Took advantage of the "pre-wired for camera" on my brand new 23RB. Pulled off the center running light and fished around for the pair of unused wires. I only found the 12v wire and did not find the return. I ended up tying into the return of the running light which works fine. Did Jayco start only running one wire now or did I just not find it? The camera seems to work fine at home. I took it about 200 feet away and the signal was low but I could still clearly see the picture. Will be taking it out the end of this week for our first overnight and will report back on how it works driving down the road.

Just returned from a trip to Houston with the new TT. Everything went very well and I continue to learn a lot. First large mistake was I put the destination into Waze and blindly followed directions. Ended up on a narrow gravel, dead end road. Very dark. Had to back into a driveway between a telephone pole, and a mail box. Was thrilled to have my newly installed rear camera that could see in the dark. Was not for that I would have had to wait until light to get out of there. Camera is a Voyager WVOS541 (wireless). It was a life saver. It worked well on the highway. Lost the signal a few times for a second or so then came back on. Seems to happen more often in urban areas with lost of interference. I will call Voyager and see if it can be improved but I will take it as is and be happy.

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/me...icture7784.jpg

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/me...cture7785.jpeg

[RickAE]

Had a leak in our outside shower I couldn't fix . So I got a new outside shower assy. and installed it.
Removed the Thedford low toilet. Replaced it with a Dometic model 310 tall porcelain toilet. Nice deep bowl.
Next is the kitchen sink. I need to measure it. Going to replace it with a stainless sink.. But that's another day..

[Brownie]

2-1/2 years of full-timing, now and all is well. Just completed a project (actually, 2 related problems) that I've been meaning to get to for about 6 months now. My black tank flush hasn't worked in about a year, and my water lines have frozen up 3 times, now - fortunately, without any damage. So I decided to drop the underbelly liner to see what I could see. For anyone who's had similar issues, here's what I found:

1) First, I lowered the under-mounted spare tire. There are about 1/2 a million hex-head, self tapping machine screws that hold the underbelly liner in place. A 5/16" hex head socket on a small ratchet work better than a fixed nut-driver.

2) With 2 fresh water, 2 grey water, and 1 black water tanks, there are a lot of valve handles, low point drains, and overflow drains coming out through the underbelly liner. Each one has Styrofoam insulation blown around it to keep out the heat/cold/critters. As a result, it is virtually impossible to completely remove the underbelly liner - unless you want to chip/cut all of that foam away, then re-spray it in when you're done. I wasn't willing to do that so my access to the entire area was somewhat limited.

3) I assumed the heating ducts and water lines ran through the underbelly area, just above the liner, in the area of the "I"-beam body. So, if I removed the liner, I'd be able to see and work on both. WRONG! There is actually a sub-floor that sits atop the "I"-beam, then a spacer, then the top floor. The water lines and heat ducts run through the area between the subfloor and the top floor. Then, there is a thin layer of insulating material on the underside of that subfloor. If you want to access the water lines and heat ducts, you have to cut through that insulation and the subfloor to get to them. Since I wasn't willing to do that, I guess I won't find the reason my water lines are freezing up. Maybe it has something to do with 9* outside temps! Think I'll just start using my furnace more and space heater less when I'm camping in sub-freezing temps. May use more propane, but (hopefully) it will reduce the chances of water line/fittings damage.

4) I was able to access the black tank rinse mechanism. It consists of a flange that attaches to the body of the black tank (above the drain) with 6 screws. Attached to the flange (inside the tank) is a 1/2" I.D. X 2" long black plastic pipe with a cap on the end. The pipe and cap have about 9 or 10 holes drilled it them at various angles to spray water around the tank to clean it. It does not spin! The water line simply screws onto the outside of the fitting with a standard 1/2 PEX screw-on fitting.
Being all plastic, it was not rusted closed (as I feared). Also, the holes were not corroded or calcified closed. They were, however, absolutely packed with some mysterious brown substance (ha, ha). After soaking it in some soapy water with Borax in it, I used a tooth pick to clear the holes, then soaked it in white vinegar. I cleared the holes a 2nd time, then screwed it onto the hose for my hand-held shower to test it. It worked great, with plenty of pressure. I reinstalled it on the holding tank and was able to get a very thorough black tank cleaning for the first time in a year.

5) Reversed the disassembly process to reinstall the underbelly liner, and all is well. No leftover screws! Used a strip of black Gorilla Tape to cover the slit I had to make in the liner to access the BT rinser. You can't even see it!

Eventually, I may remove the liner again and glue some foil-backed Styrofoam insulation under that subfloor, but that's a job for another day. I just wanted to share my experience with anyone else who's black water rinser has stopped working. It's not a hard project; just takes a long time to remove & replace all the screws (5-6 hours total project time).

[dzwiss]

My black tank rinser stopped working on two occasions. The first time, after going over a year without, I half filled the tank with hot water and TSP. Let it soak and drove a few hundred miles. Voila, it worked. The second time it clogged I didn't have any TSP, so I did the same procedure with Cascade dishwasher powder. Worked again.

[2nOZ]

While the DW was raising the TT off of the hitch, she informed me the electric jack had stopped. Apparently she ran it to the max extension and blew a fuse. After searching for the location of the fuse, I replaced the 30 amp fuse and all was good. Always learning something new.

[Magnolia Tom]

Getting it loaded up for a week long trip over spring break. Heading out tomorrow


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[Bsikes]

Gonna Spring her out of storage. De-winterize. Wash her, pack her and go to Dinosaur Valley State Park in Glen Rose, Texas for Spring break!!

[norty1]

Fridge off, slides in. Trip cancelled due to family illness.

[dzwiss]

Replaced fan in kitchen area with remote control Maxxfan. It's quieter, should move more air and doesn't need a cover.

[azreddot]

Finally remember to buy the pvc elbow to connect my city water hose, plus a polarity checker, and water Psi gauge. But best of all checked the batteries and found my loved one left the master switch 'ON' after a weekend trip two weeks ago. [emoji849] glad I looked. Threw the battery tender on. Our next rip isn't probably until this summer so it was a lucky thing I looked.


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[ttavasc]

Wired in a cut-off switch for the radio unit. The switch is mounted inside the cupboard next to where the radio is installed and at the top of the divider panel between the radio and the cupboard so it's out of sight and out of the way.

[leeinmt]

Installed hang down white wire shelves under the kitchen cabinets for stuff like keys, salt & pepper, dog treats, etc. Found them at Lowes that were meant to put inside cabinets for stacking dishes, but was able to mount them upside down over the sink and counterspace.

[northwindone]

Getting ready for some spring camping here pretty soon, so over the last few weeks I've:


- Mounted a 24" TV in the bedroom (mostly to use while in RV parks, don't watch much TV when boondocking, except maybe a movie once in a while).

- Got tired of the table shaking, so ran a plastic plumbing strap from a screw in the window frame up to the table and then back to one on the other side. Pulled it tight as a guitar string and now the table is very solid despite the best efforts of our 2-year-old to shake it while eating.

- Picked up a 2000 watt champion to top off the batteries (in addition to the 120 watt solar) and run everything but the A/C. Plane to pick up a second one in a couple months to run the A/C in tandem.

- Not part of the Jayco, but to support it. Our sewer cleanout is about 25' too far from our TT to use the sewer solution we bought. So I spent about $20 on PVC and ran a rigid 1.5" line from near my power pedestal to the clean out that will allow the sewer solution to "pump" the waste the full distance. Tried it out with a partial black tank and full grey tank and it worked great. And best of all, no mess or smell!

Eventually I'll add all of these with pictures to the mod and repair thread I have going.

[DrtEmaxChvy]

Loaded more for the trip...yesterday not today


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[Woodworker]

Plugged it into the house an cut the heat on to protect the pipes.

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