2 weeks in... Plumbing issues

ChaosTheory · 03-04-2019, 10:32 AM

I've been full-time RV'ing in my new 2018 Octane 161 without issue until this morning. I went outside and noticed a puddle on the ground, adjacent to the door, under the sink area. I removed the drawer under the sink and noticed a wet 'spray pattern' where the plastic hot water line connects to the mesh faucet lines and the furnace and surrounding wood was wet.

I tightened the connector, which seems to have worked for now, but I'm concerned that my furnace got wet. I can actually see the circuit board where the water has been 'spraying' every time I activated the hot water on the faucet.

My hope is that if I keep the drawer out and let everything under there dry out, the furnace will not be impacted. I've not been using the furnace (it's off) as I'm using a space heater, so hopefully as long as I don't turn it on when it's wet, things will be ok?

Also, when testing the connection, I noticed my sink wasn't draining anymore and figured out my grey tank was full. I had kept it closed even though I'm at a full hookup to 'test' the system and I would like to use the grey tank to help with flushing the black tank hose when I leave.

Thing is, I've been monitoring tank levels and the level indicator at the master panel never showed anything other than "less than 1/3rd full", so that indicator system is obviously not working for the grey tank.

Not sure if there's a fix for that, so I'll have to do some research. Life in an RV *shrugs*

Rustic Eagle · 03-04-2019, 11:28 AM

ChaosTheory,

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaosTheory

snip.....I tightened the connector, which seems to have worked for now,......snip

Not an uncommon issue. Most of those connectors have a rubber cone seal and can be compromised during factory installation, and also don't hold up well after a few disconnect cycles. I keep a few extra cone seals on hand and have used them over time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaosTheory

snip....I noticed my sink wasn't draining anymore and figured out my grey tank was full......snip

Wow, lucky there wasn't a leak between the kitchen/bath grey drains and tank.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaosTheory

snip..... so that indicator system is obviously not working for the grey tank......snip

Common problem. If your still under warranty may be something for your dealer to tackle.

Bob

redsnapper · 03-04-2019, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaosTheory

Thing is, I've been monitoring tank levels and the level indicator at the master panel never showed anything other than "less than 1/3rd full", so that indicator system is obviously not working for the grey tank.

Not sure if there's a fix for that, so I'll have to do some research. Life in an RV *shrugs*

Mine did the same thing.....showed 1/3rd full when I knew the tanks were empty. (nothing coming out of the drains)

I used one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before I hooked this up, the idiot lights showed 1/3rd.
When the flush was finished, both the black and gray showed empty.

Fingers crossed that it's not just a one time fix.

ChaosTheory · 03-04-2019, 02:12 PM

So my leaky connection continues. I pulled it off, and this is what it looks like. I'm going to go about 25 miles to an RV dealer to see if they have a gasket, assuming that's the problem and it's not a bad fitting in general, but if they don't, can I use silicone in there around the edges?

Bookemdanno · 03-04-2019, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaosTheory

So my leaky connection continues. I pulled it off, and this is what it looks like. I'm going to go about 25 miles to an RV dealer to see if they have a gasket, assuming that's the problem and it's not a bad fitting in general, but if they don't, can I use silicone in there around the edges?

You can just replace the inner rubber seals (the white rubber inside the connection). I've had to replace several on mine. I know I put a pic somewhere in the 377 mods thread. I can't find the pic on my phone right now...sorry.

ChaosTheory · 03-04-2019, 02:17 PM

Thanks, will update when/if fixed.

Rustic Eagle · 03-04-2019, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaosTheory

snip......see if they have a gasket, assuming that's the problem and it's not a bad fitting in general, but if they don't, can I use silicone in there around the edges?

If you can, remove the existing cone seal and take with you to the dealership because they do come in different configurations/sizes, but a tech should know based on the specific connector.

IMO silicone wouldn't be a good fix...., "maybe" a wrap of plumbers tape around the threads, but normally a good cone seal does the job. Confirm that the mating threads are compatible and getting a firm connection.

When I was adding an inline on/off valve (recommended mod) for my toilet I noticed the PEX line/connector at the back of toilet was torqued, removed it found the OEM cone seal destroyed..., month old TT. Wasn't leaking "yet"..., replaced the cone seal and addressed the torqued PEX line.

Bob

2edgesword · 03-04-2019, 03:36 PM

"Also, when testing the connection, I noticed my sink wasn't draining anymore and figured out my grey tank was full. I had kept it closed even though I'm at a full hookup to 'test' the system and I would like to use the grey tank to help with flushing the black tank hose when I leave."

I would think the first place water would come up would be the lowest point in the system like the shower/bathtub. Do you have two gray tanks?

**Midnightmoon** · 03-04-2019, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2edgesword

"Also, when testing the connection, I noticed my sink wasn't draining anymore and figured out my grey tank was full. I had kept it closed even though I'm at a full hookup to 'test' the system and I would like to use the grey tank to help with flushing the black tank hose when I leave."

I would think the first place water would come up would be the lowest point in the system like the shower/bathtub. Do you have two gray tanks?

For what it's worth, the first place it comes up in my current 22BHM is the lavatory sink, which is much higher than the tub drain. Why it comes up there, I can't explain, but it does.

In my old Nash and Airstream, they would come up in the tub first.

ChaosTheory · 03-04-2019, 05:23 PM

Ok so I was given 2 options after driving to RV place. The first is to try and replace gasket with one of the 2 on the right.

The RV guy said the crimped pipes are cheap, and it may be leaking past the seal. He suggested I try the left option, to cut the flex tube just below and cram that new fitting on the end.

I'm going to try the least intrusive method first (gasket). Also, in reply to above, the tub did slightly fill with water when my gray tank backed up.

ChaosTheory · 03-04-2019, 06:58 PM

The gasket replacement seems to have worked *fingers crossed* Thanks for the help, folks. One of many repairs to come, I'm sure.

Rustic Eagle · 03-04-2019, 07:01 PM

On Edit: Sent the following not knowing you had fix in place.........

Watch for proper orientation of cone seal..., don't ask how I know

When re-attaching the connector check that the PEX line isn't pulling on the connection otherwise it won't allow for proper seating of components. I found by just 'snugging' the connection initially and turn on water check for leaks..., tighten until the leak stops.

Bob

ChaosTheory · 03-09-2019, 12:35 PM

So 2 more leaks started within the last few days. The first is somewhere near the black water tank valve. It's NOT the blackwater tank valve, but something above the sewer drain pipe. Problem is, the area is encased in foam as I have an underbody shield and I can't see where exactly the leak is coming from. If I had to guess, it's my freshwater tank or some pipe attached to it.

2nd leak is at my water heater, at the pressure valve. I realize it drips a little when it heats up, as water expands, but it has gotten more frequent and is always dripping now-- even when the water is not currently being heated. I've seen that the valve can be replaced fairly easily, so this shouldn't be a big deal.

glamisbound · 03-09-2019, 12:51 PM

A couple comments. You said you are fully hooked up. Have you tested the water pressure and/or do you have an inline regulator?? If you are springing leaks in different locations all the sudden, I'd say you have a high pressure problem.

As far as the furnace circuit board getting wet, I'd place a small fan in the area and let it run for a while while pointed at the furnace. Once you are comfortable that it is dried out, tried firing it up. My guess is that it will be fine as long as you don't run it while it is wet inside. Just my .02. Good luck.

ChaosTheory · 03-09-2019, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glamisbound

A couple comments. You said you are fully hooked up. Have you tested the water pressure and/or do you have an inline regulator?? If you are springing leaks in different locations all the sudden, I'd say you have a high pressure problem.

As far as the furnace circuit board getting wet, I'd place a small fan in the area and let it run for a while while pointed at the furnace. Once you are comfortable that it is dried out, tried firing it up. My guess is that it will be fine as long as you don't run it while it is wet inside. Just my .02. Good luck.

Um... so I do have a water pressure regulator that was supposed to be set at 45. It was 50psi when I hooked up, but I went out and checked... It said 100psi!

Normally someone like me would cover and say "yeah, it's working fine". But I'm here to learn, so truth counts. I'll adjust it down. Not sure why it cranked itself up, but I'm sure that's the problem.

EDIT: It regulates, but the gauge is defective. I've done a few tests, removed the water line and shut off the water, releasing pressure. It still says it's 60psi, and the adjustment screw does little. 60psi is barely a trickle coming out of the pressure valve, so that's something else to replace.

Johnynorthland · 03-16-2019, 12:46 PM

I had the same type of leak under my sink. It was a connection to a water pump it happened the first time I camped in very cold weather. I patched it up with plumbers tape until I got to a dealer.

I now travel with a handful of push on fittings and hose clamps. Something to consider.

I like to try and be prepared for every situation!

TeddyO · 03-16-2019, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaosTheory

I've been full-time RV'ing in my new 2018 Octane 161 without issue until this morning. I went outside and noticed a puddle on the ground, adjacent to the door, under the sink area. I removed the drawer under the sink and noticed a wet 'spray pattern' where the plastic hot water line connects to the mesh faucet lines and the furnace and surrounding wood was wet.

I tightened the connector, which seems to have worked for now, but I'm concerned that my furnace got wet. I can actually see the circuit board where the water has been 'spraying' every time I activated the hot water on the faucet.

My hope is that if I keep the drawer out and let everything under there dry out, the furnace will not be impacted. I've not been using the furnace (it's off) as I'm using a space heater, so hopefully as long as I don't turn it on when it's wet, things will be ok?

Also, when testing the connection, I noticed my sink wasn't draining anymore and figured out my grey tank was full. I had kept it closed even though I'm at a full hookup to 'test' the system and I would like to use the grey tank to help with flushing the black tank hose when I leave.

Thing is, I've been monitoring tank levels and the level indicator at the master panel never showed anything other than "less than 1/3rd full", so that indicator system is obviously not working for the grey tank.

Not sure if there's a fix for that, so I'll have to do some research. Life in an RV *shrugs*

Our kitchen tap water supply line under the sink - some time a few drops and some times more, I tried tightening the lines a little but the problem reoccurred. I tried replacing the cone seals to no avail. I spoke to an elderly gentleman (a little younger than myself) at Home Depot about my problem. He suggested to install a shutoff valve (Pex fitting) and then a flex braided hose to the faucet. This ended our problem at a cost of about $20.00

DVB560 · 03-16-2019, 01:39 PM

Normally I never post on Forums but I thought this was a big issue as any leak in an RV is a disaster. I feel your hot water tank is "water logged" It is designed to have some air space in it to act as an expansion space for the heating expanding water. Water does not compress air does. Drain your tank and refill! Your regulator can only regulate INCOMING water pressure. Pressure within your internal plumbing is behind a check valve trapping it within. The pressure relief on your tank is protecting your system. It is not a precision item. It is also temp and pressure sensitive. At high temps it may relieve some pressure even if below it pressure set point. After refilling hot water tank manually operate pressure relief valve to clear any debris it may have. To help prevent this do not travel with your water pump on and keep RV level before using water. If problem recurs often , you may want to add a residential plumbing expansion tank.

**norty1** · 03-16-2019, 02:03 PM

Get an inexpensive pressure gauge from a home store in plumbing. Then you have no questions about the regulator or cg tap pressure.

https://toolguyd.com/water-pressure-test-gauge/

Mark T · 03-16-2019, 05:00 PM

I'm on my second Jayco trailer, both have had the issue with leaks from the plumbing. The PEX fittings are inexpensive and in both my units, leaks started where there was "pressure" on the PEX pipes. I replaced the fittings with brass (vs plastic) PEX fittings and added pipes where required to reduce any pressure on the fittings. No leaks since. I am getting ready to trade in and this time, the day I bring the new unit home, I'll replace all the faucet connectors before I head out...just my .02 cents.

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