4113 Dryer vent

Pvs9k · 11-05-2021, 08:42 AM

Morning!

I know this has been talked about on here before so thank you for you patience.

Has anyone out there had or DIY vented your dryer in a Seismic 4113?

If so, may I see some pictures, maybe some “instructions” as to what you did, learned etc.

Thanks!!

atlantaM3 · 11-05-2021, 09:13 AM

Well, it is designed to have a ventless unit in place, such as a Splendide 7100XC. No factory provisions for a vented dryer.

Your only real option would be to put a dryer vent through the floor and route out to the side of the unit exiting at the skirt metal. Not ideal, as you would need to move the unit forward from the wall to allow enough room for the vent tube, find a big enough hole through the frame, etc. to get that in place. Lots of efforts vs using a ventless type unit.

We have found the 7100XC fine for our usage needs while on vacation.

Pvs9k · 11-05-2021, 12:18 PM

We are full timing in our unit, the current dryer seems to work great but we are experiencing some wicked moisture build up as it gets colder.

Did you have to plumb that dryer into your grey tank?

atlantaM3 · 11-05-2021, 02:08 PM

no, the drain is already in place right by the water connections, actually between the cold/hot outlets on mine. The combo unit has a long drain hose that just need fed into the drain pipe.

Initially it didnt work well, took forever to dry, which was because that drain hose had bottomed out at the bottom, and want effectively draining the unit. Once we pulled the hose up a few inches, unit works well. It does take a bit longer as a condensing unit, but we are generally not in a hurry, or just use the facility laundry, etc. as needed.

Pvs9k · 11-05-2021, 02:35 PM

This is a combo unit correct? Not a individual washer and dryer?

Pvs9k · 11-06-2021, 12:07 PM

Thanks for giving me all this info, definitely appreciate it.

How long does it take to do a load with that 7100?

atlantaM3 · 11-06-2021, 03:06 PM

correct, combo unit. put clothes in dirty, pull them out dry. Splendide has two different versions of condensing units, the 7100XC/7200xc, and some other iteration if I recall. I forget the model number.

Time depends on the program, and also how dry you want the clothes. Seems like it varied between 75 - 120 minutes depending on which program was being used. We did small loads, so the time needed wasnt something we focused on. You do need to be aware that the wash load can be bigger than the dry load, per the unit specifications, so we just keep the size at the dry load so we dont have to mess with it.

Pvs9k · 11-06-2021, 04:11 PM

Thanks again for everything.

I think we are going to go with the 7200xc.

My wife is excited about gaining some vertical storage space once we get rid of the stackable unit.

Mike Badley · 12-25-2021, 09:01 AM

That’s a good one since the owner manual has a section on it (that of course references some other documentation - that I don’t have). AND there is a sticker on the wall next to the hook ups that marks the dryer vent cutout. But DON’T cut that out because there is nothing behind that but a stud pocket. So far the only thing making sense to me is going through that space behind the fireplace insert. Not sure how, but that’s all that is available for a 3 or 4 inch duct

Big1 · 12-28-2021, 07:55 PM

I don't have the same unit that you do but I install my washer and dryer myself.

Mike Badley · 12-29-2021, 07:04 PM

Big1 - "I don't have your same unit, and I installed it myself...." Not all that useful, but good on you for chiming in!

Big1 · 12-29-2021, 07:21 PM

Okay, and even though I don't have the same unit but it's the same 4' hole and run the vent holes.

Thomson · 12-29-2021, 09:44 PM

On our fiver the sticker for the center of the dryer vent was 1" from the seam between the cap and the wall. Fortunately we drilled a small pilot hole from the inside and went outside to find this. So we drilled another pilot hole to make certain the 4" hole would miss the seam. Drilled it with a 4" hole saw from both sides. Then installed the vent with lots of acetic acid based silicone.

Mike Badley · 12-29-2021, 10:50 PM

Just so everybody is clear on this; The Seismic 4113 model (and a few other Seismic versions) has the washer/dryer hook-ups in the garage of the toy-hauler section. It's located about the middle of the bulkhead wall to the living space. There's no 'sidewall' access to the exterior to just 'cut a vent'. You could, I suppose, cut a hole in the rubber diamond plate to get to the 'bottom', but that would be a crapshoot because there is a lot of foam insulation to go through. There is the potential of going through the cabinet behind the TV by removing the fireplace insert (easy enough to access), but you're still stuck with finding a route to the exterior with a 3 or 4 inch duct - and my model has that big drop-down side patio that limits where you're going to be able to cut that vent hole. Somehow, Jayco must know how this should be done - but it's sure not clear to those of us with nothing to go on.

atlantaM3 · 12-29-2021, 11:34 PM

This. These units are designed for condensing units. These is no 'good' option for a non condensing dryer to be installed.

Speaking as the owner of a 4113 model.

Pvs9k · 01-08-2022, 06:25 PM

Hey man quick question.

I have a heat vent in my bathroom and one at the foot of the bed.

The bathroom vent feels like two medium to large sized dogs breathing on you.

The bedroom vent is maybe like a lazy cat breathing g on you.

Do you have the same setup? Similar airflow?

Mike Badley · 01-10-2022, 08:07 AM

Yeah, I noticed that too. The problem is that the bedroom vent is at the end of the line and served by a 3" duct line - not directly from the main trunk like the bathroom, kitchen and living room vents. I solved this by removing the vent louvers and putting some aluminum foil over the bottom in the kitchen and bathroom ones, then punching about 4 pencil holes in the foil. This forced a lot more air up to the bedroom duct. Also, check your 'storage unit' vents. They are plastic and I found both of my vents had melted and dropped out, leaving a gaping hole and heating my storage units way more than needed. Solved that by putting some round, metal junction box covers with some holes drilled in them in the plastic vent housing (they fit perfectly). These can't melt and drop out. At least I have better heat distribution throughout now. Garage area is cold as a well diggers a$$, but I don't really need that space heated. Except I have to watch out for the washer/dryer and get those drained down after use so as not to freeze.

atlantaM3 · 01-10-2022, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pvs9k

Hey man quick question.

I have a heat vent in my bathroom and one at the foot of the bed.

The bathroom vent feels like two medium to large sized dogs breathing on you.

The bedroom vent is maybe like a lazy cat breathing g on you.

Do you have the same setup? Similar airflow?

Mine was the same. The end of the duct that feeds the bedroom also feeds the basement and a down pipe to heat the enclosed tank area. There is also a step up in the duct from the kitchen to BR/Bath vent

Similar to Mike, I partially blocked the outlets for the kitchen and main bathroom, forcing more air to the end. I also got into the basement and taped up seams for the ducts, and connections to the furnace, as there was LOTS of leakage throughout the system. Also had some kinks in the outlet pipes, which was blocking flow. Changes resulted in better air movement to the BR, can feel the air now, but not a huge change in overall flow. Given that the BR is a small space, and heat rises, those changes made it just right for temp management (at least for us). Also we dont get cooked out of the bathroom now.

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