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Old 07-08-2020, 12:52 AM   #1
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Atwood (dometic) hot water heater problem

So I read a bunch of threads on here and curious if people think the board is bad in my brand new sl222. If I put the hot water heater on electric it works perfect. If I switch it to propane the flame is yellow and about the size of a regular torch head. Iíve torn it apart three times and cleaned everything but canít figure it out. Tried it with both propane tanks with the same results.

Iím trying to figure out if this needs to go in to service to be looked at or if anyone has some suggestions on what to try. Itís not under warranty as I bought it brand new from a coworker and Jayco doesnít honor transfers of warranty despite giving only 2 years on their trailers.
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Old 07-08-2020, 02:13 AM   #2
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It sounds like wrong gas to air mix as the flame should be blue. I think there is an adjustment on the pipe going across the front near the bottom of the heater. If memory serves me there is a small screw on that pipe that can be loosened to adjust the air flow. Only other thing is you may have lost the orifice during cleaning. You can go to their website or google troubleshooting manual
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Old 07-08-2020, 08:50 AM   #3
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What color is the flame at the stove? Yellow may indicate a regulator problem feeding the trailer. Blue at the stove says the Atwood isn't set right.

If it's the Atwood, this may help you out. http://www.allthingsforetravel.com/2...oubleshooting/
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Old 07-08-2020, 09:35 AM   #4
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Try adjusting the air mixture, this setting gives me the near perfect flame. Just took this picture now and my unit is 10 years old.
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Old 07-08-2020, 10:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tunce the traveler View Post
Try adjusting the air mixture, this setting gives me the near perfect flame. Just took this picture now and my unit is 10 years old.
Yeah Iíve tried adjusting that tube all the way one way and the other. At best it gets kind of blue but still not all blue and it never gets big. Iíll
Check the stove here after work and report back.
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Old 07-08-2020, 11:03 AM   #6
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Is your furnace firing up properly? It's also a big user of gas and if it isn't working properly I would suspect a gas pressure problem. The range flame can look normal but it doesn't require the pressure that the others do.
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Old 07-08-2020, 11:10 AM   #7
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Furnace fires up everytime I turn the thermostat up and runs during the night as expected. Same with the fridge, never had a problem with running it on propane.
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Old 07-08-2020, 01:36 PM   #8
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Hereís two pictures of the stove. One showing both and then just a close up. Thatís with both on high.
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Old 07-08-2020, 03:25 PM   #9
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Here's the list of things Atwood says to try

ERRATIC BURNER FLAME OR SOOTING
Low gas pressure
Set inlet pressure at a minimum 11˝ W.C. with two or more gas appliances running

Poor gas supply
Replace gas supply

Improper air adjustment
Adjust main burner air shutter approximately 1/4 way open. The flame should be mainly blue and quiet.

Poor main burner alignment
Adjust valve and main burner alignment

Misaligned burner flame spreader
Align flame spreader so it is square with the end of the burner tube.

Blocked burner orifice
Clean orifice.
DO NOT enlarge the orifice

Obstructed main burner
Clean main burner
Obstructed ďUĒ tube
Clean ďUĒ tube

Obstructed exhaust grille
Remove obstruction
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Old 07-16-2020, 12:08 PM   #10
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Check for spider web, or mud dauber in the burner tube, just a thought, all appliances use the same regulator, so not a pressure problem, sounds like a flow problem, orifice, or burner tube.
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Old 07-16-2020, 05:47 PM   #11
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Check for spider web, or mud dauber in the burner tube, just a thought, all appliances use the same regulator, so not a pressure problem, sounds like a flow problem, orifice, or burner tube.
Iíve taken everything off after the fuel valve (including the jet) down to the igniter 4x at this point. Pulled everything off blew it out with compressed air, ran a wire brush through all of it. Then took compressor to the exhaust tube and blew through that for 5 minutes. Ran a flexible hose up
The exhaust after that and hit nothing. Put it all
together and it does the same thing. Once I get back on my feet Iíll go out there and look it over once more before dragging it down to service if it still doesnít run right.
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Old 07-16-2020, 08:42 PM   #12
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The only thing left is gas pressure.
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Old 07-16-2020, 09:17 PM   #13
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I’m assuming the gas pump (at least as I call it) is the piece that the jet is attached to. Are these known to go bad? My local repair shop is about 1 1/2 hours each way so I’m trying to avoid dragging it there and leaving it for several weeks.
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Old 07-17-2020, 12:23 PM   #14
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No I mean your regulator at the propane tanks. I've gone through two of them since 6/19.
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Old 07-22-2020, 02:54 AM   #15
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So I’m going to start replacing parts until I get it fixed. At least this way I’ll have spares for if something breaks in the future.

Does anyone know of a cross reference to a compatible gas valve? I can only find the exact one on amazon for $130 here

Atwood 6-10 Gal Water Heater Gas Valve Without Orifice 93870-93844 93321 92078 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08156GJGS..._k7.fFbWAF12M1
Mine is the 93321

but found this one that looks the same but does had slightly different numbers on it for significantly less. If I need the $130 one I’ll buy that but wanted to ask opinions.

Suburban 161109 Gas Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003G9FQSS..._r3.fFb7QR5H8W
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Old 09-01-2020, 10:53 PM   #16
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Update to my post. Was hunting season so hot water heater had to take a break. Found out the unit has basically zero pressure getting to gas valve. Tested at the hot water heater was reading 1, moved over to the fridge and it was 12 if I remember correctly.

Does anyone have a diagram of hose routing for these? I looked underneath to where it goes from tanks to inside and no kinks, looked at the back of heater under the bed and saw no kinks.
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