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Old 09-19-2021, 05:15 PM   #1
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2016 Precept 31 UL

I’ve got a rear exit window that I’ve opened, for the first time since buying this motor home in August, and can’t get it to close. Any ideas why it might be stuck in the open position?
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Old 09-19-2021, 06:14 PM   #2
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You opened it too far and now it's ready to fall out. $$$ Get on a ladder and hold the window and try to get it re-hinged. I did this once and it took some fiddling to get it back in.
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Old 09-19-2021, 07:18 PM   #3
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Thanks! I had to remove the two screws that are supposed to prevent this from happening and then did what you recommended. All is working like it should now.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:15 PM   #4
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With a little work you can convert your window to an opening one with a screen and pushrod as I have done.
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Old 09-19-2021, 09:31 PM   #5
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Where did you get the parts? I’d like to do the same thing.
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Old 09-20-2021, 12:47 PM   #6
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New problem: I need help on a good solution to this problem.
My passenger side view mirror is loose and shaking as I drive. Whoever put it on to the coach used plastic anchors, zinc screws along with a whole lot of silicone sealant to attach it. I’ve unscrewed it and removed all the silicone mess and it appears that the screws rusted and the area around the top two holes appear to be cracking. The last owner sealed the roof/front cap joint with white Flexall. The pictures show plywood on the inside left of the wire hole and foam to the right. I’m thinking that I might need to fabricate a metal backing plate for inside the coach to where I can attach the mirror’s screws. Thoughts, ideas, suggestions?
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Old 09-20-2021, 01:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patjjensen View Post
New problem: I need help on a good solution to this problem.
My passenger side view mirror is loose and shaking as I drive. Whoever put it on to the coach used plastic anchors, zinc screws along with a whole lot of silicone sealant to attach it. I’ve unscrewed it and removed all the silicone mess and it appears that the screws rusted and the area around the top two holes appear to be cracking. The last owner sealed the roof/front cap joint with white Flexall. The pictures show plywood on the inside left of the wire hole and foam to the right. I’m thinking that I might need to fabricate a metal backing plate for inside the coach to where I can attach the mirror’s screws. Thoughts, ideas, suggestions?
Just went through the exact same thing. I had a leak show up on the passenger side floor. Sealed all around the window. Still leaked. Put a trash bag over the whole mirror. Leak stopped. Removed the mirror and found the water running down the mirror wiring and dripping on the floor. It messed up the whole inside for attaching the mirror. Mine actually fell off after I got the whole sealed up and reattached the mirror but the screws were only into the fiberglass skin. I pulled up the dash on that side and took loose the panel in front of the passenger seat. A real pain. I dug out the foam exposing the inside of the fiberglass skin and installed metal backing plates and through bolts with lock nuts. When reinstalling the mirror caulk the top and sides but be sure to leave the weep hole slots open on the bottom.
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Old 09-20-2021, 02:05 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info but sure feel bad for the trouble a leaking mirror caused you. I’m going to follow your lead using two metal plates under the dash to attach the mirror bolts. One plate for the top two bolts, the other for the bottom two bolts. I will drill the four holes straight through the wall, insert the screws, and attach the plates directly to the inside wall with nut and star washers. I’m hoping not to have to remove the dash to do this. I was thinking of sealing the wiring hole with expanding foam and using butyl tape as a gasket for the mirror’s mounting base, keeping the weep hole clear. Fingers crossed. Hoping this will fix the problem.
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Old 09-20-2021, 02:44 PM   #9
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I only took the dash loose on one side and pulled it up. Only way to access the bolts. The dealer I bought it from sent me a check for $2700 for repairs. I took up all the carpet and replaced all the flooring with HVLP. I even replaced the entry steps with real oak treads.
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Old 09-20-2021, 02:54 PM   #10
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I double nutted the mirror bolts. Lock nuts were too much of a pain.
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Old 09-20-2021, 06:14 PM   #11
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Looks good! I was able to use the nylock nut and star washer on three of the screws and added a fender washer to the fourth screw as it was in a very open place on the wall. The other three were through the lip of the front and top dash panels. I used those lips as fender washers for the washer/nuts. Everything tightened up nicely and was hidden behind the dash. I also used silicone caulk around the screw heads for an extra seal against moisture. This job is done.
Next, I’ve got moisture damage on the inside wall below the rear exit window. I think I should remove the window and reseal it. What do you think?
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Old 09-20-2021, 07:41 PM   #12
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Looks good! I was able to use the nylock nut and star washer on three of the screws and added a fender washer to the fourth screw as it was in a very open place on the wall. The other three were through the lip of the front and top dash panels. I used those lips as fender washers for the washer/nuts. Everything tightened up nicely and was hidden behind the dash. I also used silicone caulk around the screw heads for an extra seal against moisture. This job is done.
Next, I’ve got moisture damage on the inside wall below the rear exit window. I think I should remove the window and reseal it. What do you think?
Probably the only way to get it sealed right plus easier to see any damage.
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Old 09-22-2021, 04:13 PM   #13
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With a little work you can convert your window to an opening one with a screen and pushrod as I have done.
Great idea! Did you mirror the emergency wi Dow on the drivers side?

Where did you get the parts and the screen?
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Old 09-24-2021, 03:42 PM   #14
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I’m working on two new issues with my Precept 31UL and could use some help.
1) the LED strip seems to have half stuck to the awning fabric and pulled itself apart. As well, the awning fabric seems to have also left parts of itself to the roller bar, too. The awning is the Carefree model, no pun intended. Is this a common problem?
2) wondering if Jayco installed the rain gutters upside down. See photos. Water pours over the edge and down the sides. My Eagle HT came with plastic gutters on each end to direct water away from the fiver but my Precept doesn’t have this feature. Why?
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Old 09-25-2021, 08:20 AM   #15
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With a little work you can convert your window to an opening one with a screen and pushrod as I have done.
Vicr, would you mind starting a new thread with the details on how you added the screen to the exit window?
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Old 10-02-2021, 01:35 PM   #16
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I found all the parts to get the rear window of my 31Ul to open.

For the screen search screen window corners and you will find the radius corners to make the frame, also search for k window frame ( they are sold in 4 ft sections,) lastly search for RV window egress exit latch. In addition to these items you will need some screen and spline which can be pitched anywhere. I purchased black frame material and screen to match my existing screens.
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