Automatic Transfer relay box Burnt

[blackoctaupus]

What will have cause this to happen, if this happen to you what was the diagnostic. We are camping right now and this happen to us. The RV shop will order a new relay box, will be here on Monday. But don't know when they will come to fix it.

thank you

[JimD]

Most often the cause of burnt connections like you have is due to loose connections. The screws that hold the wiring to the terminal strip need to be very tight. If they are the least bit loose the connection will begin to get hot with current flow. The more power you pull, the hotter it will get. Once hot enough the plastic and wire insulation will burn and melt.

[blackoctaupus]

Originally Posted by JimD

Most often the cause of burnt connections like you have is due to loose connections. The screws that hold the wiring to the terminal strip need to be very tight. If they are the least bit loose the connection will begin to get hot with current flow. The more power you pull, the hotter it will get. Once hot enough the plastic and wire insulation will burn and melt.

Thank you this is what I tough and hoping for and hopefully when they replace the unit. I won't have a problem anymore.

[mkassab]

I saw this failure on other posts.... so, I took some preventative actions and tighten every connection I could fine, from transfer switch, breaker box, etc.

It's just another example of POOR Jayco Quality Control (or lack thereof).

Mark

[16WhiteColly]

I invested in a Torquing Screwdriver just for that reason. Much cheaper than an RV fire. Because of the vibration during travel, I check them regularly.

[blackoctaupus]

Originally Posted by 16WhiteColly

I invested in a Torquing Screwdriver just for that reason. Much cheaper than an RV fire. Because of the vibration during travel, I check them regularly.

Interesting what did you get thank you

[16WhiteColly]

Originally Posted by blackoctaupus

Interesting what did you get thank you

Bought it at Home Depot in electrical, was about $40. Husky #1000030971.

[Jopopsy]

I’ve got one of these:

Torque wrench for inch pounds

So - the million dollar question. If you’re torquing these electrical connections, what are you torquing them TO?

[blackoctaupus]

Originally Posted by Jopopsy

I’ve got one of these:

Torque wrench for inch pounds

So - the million dollar question. If you’re torquing these electrical connections, what are you torquing them TO?

Yes will like to know too!

[blackoctaupus]

Had The relay box change today at 8 o'clock pm, Kevin did a great job and was very happy that we are in business again. Kevin did a great job.

[pconroy]

That is EXACTLY what happened to us last fall. Smell of smoke, and then the AC stopped working. The inside of my ATS looked exactly like that.


I bought a replacement lug connector from Grainger, some 12g wire and was able to fix it myself.


I also decided to mount a dedicated smoke detector in the rats nest of wiring by the ATS. It's under our bed so I was a tad motivated to get advance notice should it happen again.


The new ATS models use Wago connectors. But I get pretty ticked off when I think about this and see others having the same issue. Clearly this is a huge fire risk.

[Jeffur]

That was an overload condition, likely not loose connections as both sides of the contact block is melted. Repeated over amperage draw will heat these connections and loosen them.
Load it up with your demands and than take an inductive amperage reading.

[blackoctaupus]

Originally Posted by Jeffur

That was an overload condition, likely not loose connections as both sides of the contact block is melted. Repeated over amperage draw will heat these connections and loosen them.
Load it up with your demands and than take an inductive amperage reading.

please could you explain how to do it
Thank you

[16WhiteColly]

Originally Posted by Jopopsy

I’ve got one of these:

Torque wrench for inch pounds

So - the million dollar question. If you’re torquing these electrical connections, what are you torquing them TO?

Torque specs are printed on the breakers, ground/neutral bars, panel etc. What is required.

[blackoctaupus]

Originally Posted by Jeffur

That was an overload condition, likely not loose connections as both sides of the contact block is melted. Repeated over amperage draw will heat these connections and loosen them.
Load it up with your demands and than take an inductive amperage reading.

It did make sense when reading your post. But reading my instructions manual it says that I have a power control ( Energy management ) 30A System. What it does make sure, that it doesn’t overloaded the system. Unless this is defective it shouldn’t have overload. But what you said it does make sense. If that happens again then will look at the power management.

Thank you for your info!

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by Jeffur

That was an overload condition, likely not loose connections as both sides of the contact block is melted. Repeated over amperage draw will heat these connections and loosen them.
Load it up with your demands and than take an inductive amperage reading.

You lost me a bit - it's not a loose connection but the connections loosened?

What system in my RV caused the over amp draw and not kick a breaker?
Why did my ATS melt and a breaker not pop?


My ATS had 10g wire.

[blackoctaupus]

Originally Posted by pconroy

You lost me a bit - it's not a loose connection but the connections loosened?

What system in my RV caused the over amp draw and not kick a breaker?
Why did my ATS melt and a breaker not pop?


My ATS had 10g wire.

Make sense!

[Vicr]

Again, another electrical thread with some "misinformation". From an electrician (me): The electrical connection on the terminal strip specifically the middle 'hot" connection was not tight which caused an arcing event when under load. The arcing event caused excessive heat which in turn caused the insulation on the conductor and the terminal strip to degrade. The metal connections in the terminal strip also degraded to the point that the metal actually changed its metallic composition.

Why was the connection loose? Maybe not tight from the initial installation, maybe loosened up from the constant movement of the coach when traveling, who knows. Stranded wires do have a tendency to compress or 'relax naturally over time because of changes in temperature (expanding and contracting) and need to be checked and retorqued periodically.

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by Vicr

Why was the connection loose? Maybe not tight from the initial installation, maybe loosened up from the constant movement of the coach when traveling, who knows. Stranded wires do have a tendency to compress or 'relax naturally over time because of changes in temperature (expanding and contracting) and need to be checked and retorqued periodically.

And I'm not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand. Agreed that the bounce and flex of the motorhome will contribute to this problem. But we don't see (or don't hear about) the connections to the outlets having this problem. Granted they tend to see much less amperage and for much shorter times.


The wire inside the ATS was solid copper in mine. 10g too.



The ATS manufacturer has apparently switched to Wago connectors for the newer models. Whether that's driven by cost or something else, I don't know.


What's apparent to me is that annual rechecking of those connections is really important!

[Vicr]

Wire size, solid or stranded doesn't matter. A loose connection is a loose connection and will overheat in direct relationship to the load (amperage) passing thru, or trying to pass thru that connection. Wago's are an excellent product I've used 10's of thousands of them over the years with very few issues and they are expensive but a better product than the cheap AL/CU rated terminal strips used in RV electrical devices.