Changing to lithium batteries in Alante 26x

[Schlep]

I'm thinking of changing to lithium batteries in my Alante 26x,
Are they compatible with the existing charging system?
I do not have solar yet.

[Grumpy]

It depends on which model # the converter charger is. You should be able to find that number on the power panel. If it is the standard charger it will not take the lithiums to a full charge so you have to replace the module.

Here is the link to the info from Progressive Dynamics.

https://www.progressivedyn.com/power-centers/

[Schlep]

Thanks...I will check that. Im hoping since it is prepped for solar it will have the correct charger...fingers crossed.

[MarcF]

I did a little research on my 2022 29s.

Here is want I came up with:

I need to change the converter from PD9260C to PD9160ALV.
(The standard converter does not charge LiFeP04 battery properly) The 29S has a 60amp, you would just want to match your unit.

I need to replace the solenoid that connects the chassis and the house batteries this needs to be changed to a Li-BIM 225.
(This protects the chassis battery as well as the charges the house batteries more appropriately.)

There are alternatives to the Li-BIM 225. I believe you can install a DC to DC converter and just use the solenoid for the battery boost feature.

I hope this helps.

[Schlep]

This gets complicated... thanks for the info. I guess I have some research to do!

[Ketch a nap]

Does anyone know what inverter is in the 2019 jayco alante 29s.
Seems like I cannot run a vacum cleaner without it tripping off then resetting.
Ketch a nap.
Thank you

[MarcF]

You need to look in the power cabinet under the bed. (A few screws). The 2022 alante 29s has a 1200 Xantrex inverter. This is rated at 1200W. Some vacuums can pull well over 1000W. You might want to check the power specification on the vacuum.

[Hbrand]

I have a 240A alternator in my Alante.
Why would I need Li-BIM 225.

Greetings, Harold

Originally Posted by MarcF

I did a little research on my 2022 29s.

Here is want I came up with:

I need to change the converter from PD9260C to PD9160ALV.
(The standard converter does not charge LiFeP04 battery properly) The 29S has a 60amp, you would just want to match your unit.

I need to replace the solenoid that connects the chassis and the house batteries this needs to be changed to a Li-BIM 225.
(This protects the chassis battery as well as the charges the house batteries more appropriately.)

There are alternatives to the Li-BIM 225. I believe you can install a DC to DC converter and just use the solenoid for the battery boost feature.

I hope this helps.

[craigav]

The Li-Bim is optimized for the higher charge voltages that LiFePo4 batteries can handle as well as monitors the alternator charge time to keep the alternator from running too long at a high output (helps keep the alternator from getting too hot).

If you just use the BIM you have now, that would actually work however the batteries may not reach 100% charge and the alternator may stay at a high output for a longer period of time (could cause overheating). Keep in mind, testing indicates that not reaching 100% charge actually increases the life of a LiFePo4 battery (number of cycles). ~CA

[ARoamer]

Originally Posted by Hbrand

I have a 240A alternator in my Alante.
Why would I need Li-BIM 225.

Lithium iron phosphate batteries have a different charging profile from lead acid, lead-acid batteries self-limit current (amps) by raising their internal resistance. A decent 100AH lithium battery can accept 100A of charge current if it's discharged. Great for quick charging, no so great when putting a huge load on an alternator, more so if you have 3 putting a 300A load on it.

[Hbrand]

The Renogy 100Ah battery limits the charge it takes to 50A. So no alternator or converter overheating.
Therefore I think a Li-BIM 225 is not needed.
Greetings, Harold

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Hbrand

The Renogy 100Ah battery limits the charge it takes to 50A. So no alternator or converter overheating.
Therefore I think a Li-BIM 225 is not needed.
Greetings, Harold

When a battery manufacture such as Renogy specifies a maximum charge current rate as in this case 50A, what they are saying is for you to make sure that the charge current to the battery does not to exceed that amount (50A). The battery itself cannot control the charge rate so you would need to take the appropriate actions to make sure that the charge current stays below 50A.

In the case of having a LiFePo4 battery with a maximum charge rate of 50A, you would want to use a charge current limiting device such as a DC2DC charger as the Li-BIM also doesn't control the charge current and instead only controls the charge voltage. ~CA

[Hbrand]

Ah Ha, now I understand. Thank you

[ARoamer]

Originally Posted by Hbrand

The Renogy 100Ah battery limits the charge it takes to 50A. So no alternator or converter overheating.
Therefore I think a Li-BIM 225 is not needed.
Greetings, Harold

A 50A charge / discharge limit on a 100AH battery usually means a cheaper BMS module, a lower C rating of it's cells or both.
Lots of ways for companies to make a battery appear to be a good deal, but they actually may not be. Check all of the specs when shopping!

[Hbrand]

So my 100Ah Renogy LI battery will get charged by:
The LI converter puts out 65A to the battery when Shore power
The alternator when driving puts out a lot of amps, will measure t
The solar system 30 Amps max

I will need a 3 way battery charge controller, wow. Or ??
Will check how much this is.
Greetings, Harold

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Hbrand

So my 100Ah Renogy LI battery will get charged by:
The LI converter puts out 65A to the battery when Shore power
The alternator when driving puts out a lot of amps, will measure t
The solar system 30 Amps max

I will need a 3 way battery charge controller, wow. Or ??
Will check how much this is.
Greetings, Harold

My thoughts are that you could add another battery so you don't have to be concerned with the 65A converter. However, I doubt you would ever get the entire 65A converter amps to the battery anyway, I would be surprised if even 55A reaches the battery. So in regards to the converter, I wouldn't be concerned even if it went a little over the max charge current specs.

The engine alt though would be of a higher concern for the alt itself and the battery, and I would suggest a DC2DC charger such as the 40A one from Renogy to alleviate these concerns.

Regarding the solar, I don't see any reason why you couldn't leave the solar controller setup as it is.

I have read from some that the charge cable wiring from the alt to the coach battery(s) isn't heavy enough to carry the alt's full current and because of that, the smaller wiring cable prevents the alt's full output from reaching the battery. However, I wouldn't be all that comfortable with trusting in that guidance and I am not a fan of trying to regulate the current in that manner for several reasons. My point here is if you do measure the alt output to the coach battery you may find it is lower than expected even with a low coach battery, but I would still recommend a DC2DC charger. ~CA

[JAYC0]

Keep in mind also that with any of the chargers mentioned here the charging amount quoted is "total" not per battery. If you are running a 65-amp charger but you have four batteries, you're only getting a max of about 15 to 16 amps going to each battery.
So you actually want the highest number you can find as far as charging goes.
My Magnum converter/charger for example puts out 125a so my batteries get charged quickly.

[DonC757]

I went through this a few months ago. Installed battleborn lithium house batteries in my 2019 34G. I had to replace the converter under the bed with one that is suitable for lithium house batteries. It was an easy swap. I ended up installing an Orion Tr Smart 12/23 30amp isolated DC/DC charger from Victron Energy. I replaced the BIM 225 with an ordinary Ford automotive solenoid. The reason I didn’t use the BIM 225 as a solenoid is that the BIM 225 contactor may or may not spring back to open when you release the switch (depower the small purple wire) that ties the batteries together. Got that from the BIM website. I’m very happy with the DC/ DC charger.

[Hbrand]

I will buy a second 100Ah Renogy, put them parallel, Then charging with my 80A converter will be OK. 40A per battery or less.
Need to watch my pos. wire from converter to battery though.
Next step: Use my clamp on amp meter on the alternator output and batteries with batteries partly discharged.
Will report back.

[Hbrand]

I am tire now. Installed 6 panels on roof and the wires.
Got 400W down to converter with decent sun shine.
3 sets parallel, 3 sets serial.