Flat towing a 2021 4x4 GMC Canyon

hopnhic · 03-16-2021, 08:42 PM

Has anyone got a GMC Canyon or Chevrolet Colorado toad? I have a 2020 Precept 31UL and a 2021 GMC Canyon, 4x4 that I'd like to set up to tow. I am confused about having to disconnect
the battery, but the different brake systems require 12 volt power. The RVi brake system is supposed to plug into the aux power receptacle (previously known as the cigarette lighter). Also the toads lights brake and running. I searched this forum and come up blank. iRV2 forum has some threads but they are diesel types and recommend an air pressure system such as the AirForce1. (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/flat...do-419101.html) There must be a work around, perhaps through the umbilical from the RV. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Vicr · 03-17-2021, 06:57 AM

You can install a charge line from your plug in the front of your toad to the toad battery. Go on eTrailer.com, they are around $25.

Grumpy · 03-17-2021, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vicr

You can install a charge line from your plug in the front of your toad to the toad battery. Go on eTrailer.com, they are around $25.

It can't be a charge line it has to be a separate power line to an accessory socket. Based on the need to disconnect the negative battery cable says that the entire electrical system has to be disabled. Any supplemental braking system will have to be powered by the MH not the TOAD.

Camper_bob · 03-17-2021, 07:57 AM

I think a better option would be to wire a separate fused 12V socket directly from the battery into the cabin. Configure it so that the only thing still connected to the battery is that socket when you're set up for towing (not terribly difficult to do).

You can still run a charge line from the MH, just wire it up to the battery so it too remains connected when the rest of the toad chassis is not.

This way your battery stays topped up in transit, and there's very little chance for your brake to lose power.

Personally, I wouldn't want to depend on power solely from the coach for the brake. If you have a break-away failure, there is a chance the brake could lose power. I know several braking systems account for this in various ways (Blue Ox Patriots have a capacitor in them), but I'd rather play it safe and have the brake powered by something within the toad. Just in case.

FWIW, I did something similar in my Jeep, but for a different reason. In the JLU Wrangler, the only 12V socket near the brake is powered only with ignition on. No way I'm going to travel with it on. So I wired in a dedicated 12V fused socket directly to the battery and landed it under the driver's seat. I also setup the Roadmaster charge line from the plug up front to keep the battery topped up in transit. That socket is hot ALL the time, so I need to be careful if I leave anything plugged into it. But then this Jeep has 2 batteries, and the one I tapped for this socket is not the starting battery, but still...

Vicr · 03-17-2021, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grumpy

It can't be a charge line it has to be a separate power line to an accessory socket. Based on the need to disconnect the negative battery cable says that the entire electrical system has to be disabled. Any supplemental braking system will have to be powered by the MH not the TOAD.

You're not understanding what this electrician has said. First of all in the 6 pin umbilical cord there is a "HOT" line from the RV to the umbilical receptacle on the toad. Then you run a wire (charge line) to the battery using a charge line kit you can get on etrailer that has a fuse and a diode and connect to the positive on the battery. Thus the battery receives 13.4v + or - from the source which is the alternator in the coach. I have done this on two toads so far with my Precept with NO problems. You can then power the toad brake system from the toad.

hopnhic · 03-17-2021, 10:38 AM

Thanks for the quick replies. I think the best way will be to disconnect the battery, probably with a blade switch, but run a hot lead from the MH to the battery to keep it charged and run a dedicated line from the battery to the brake actuator (fused of course). Could be as simple as running a line thru the firewall to the battery that terminates in a cigarette lighter connection. In both cases I will need to ground directly to the battery as the vehicle ground will be disconnected. Etrailer has a kit that includes a smart battery isolator (https://www.etrailer.com/Battery-Cha...-SBI12KIT.html). Vicr, what do you think?

Camper_bob · 03-17-2021, 10:50 AM

My opinion, you don't need an isolator.

You need a charge line that runs from the MH umbilical connection to the battery. Then you need a 12V fused socket that runs directly to the +/- on the battery. Wire both of these "ahead" of your battery cutoff, such that the blade switch (or whatever you decide to use) cuts the power to the entire toad chassis, but the charge line and the 12V socket are still connected to the battery.

That's what I think I'd do with it anyway.

Vicr · 03-17-2021, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hopnhic

Thanks for the quick replies. I think the best way will be to disconnect the battery, probably with a blade switch, but run a hot lead from the MH to the battery to keep it charged and run a dedicated line from the battery to the brake actuator (fused of course). Could be as simple as running a line thru the firewall to the battery that terminates in a cigarette lighter connection. In both cases I will need to ground directly to the battery as the vehicle ground will be disconnected. Etrailer has a kit that includes a smart battery isolator (https://www.etrailer.com/Battery-Cha...-SBI12KIT.html). Vicr, what do you think?

I think you are totally overthinking this. It's a simple $20 electrical part you wire from your umbilicle assy to your battery. It has a diode so your Toad cannot backfeed into your coach and a fuse in case the line gets damaged. Sometimes with electrical stuff less is more as long as it safe.

Camper_bob · 03-17-2021, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vicr

I think you are totally overthinking this. It's a simple $20 electrical part you wire from your umbilicle assy to your battery. It has a diode so your Toad cannot backfeed into your coach and a fuse in case the line gets damaged. Sometimes with electrical stuff less is more as long as it safe.

+1

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