gas additive

[dkoltveit]

Class a gas ford v10 going into storage. any recommendations on whether or what kind of gas additive should be added for the long winter?

[CAG]

SeaFoam and nothing else but.

[Jagiven]

When I use an additive, I like plan old seafoam.

Ideally run the tank down, and fill with ethonal free fuel.

[hawkster]

We don't have ethanol fuel here. Run down to 1/4 tank and use stabil. Use same in motorcycles and car left over winter. Never a problem.

[CAG]

No such thing as ethanol free in the Phoenix or Tucson Metro areas. Stabil is good but SeaFoam seems to have better cleaning properties. Even if you forget, SeaFoam will clean gummed carbs faster that anything. Generators, SXS, boats, anything that sits with fuel in it.

[1955farm]

Remember to run the generator for about 45 minutes to get the treated fuel in it also. I use seafoam as a stabilizer in the RV for storage and also all 2 stroke engines I have. And run the generator under a load at least an hour every month or so to prevent having problems with it. Onan actually recommends 2 hours every month on the genny.

[CAG]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsP1exgVzvs

I had not heard or read 2 hours. Onan says 1 hour under load, the last I saw.

2:45 into the video.

[bob393]

One more for seafoam, been using it for years in everything from the motorcycle to the generator. The stuff really works.

[RoWest]

A cut and paste about fuel storage:
Less surface area exposed within the tank and a smaller volume of air reduces the potential for condensation in today’s water-absorbing fuels. Experts in the fuel industry now recommend storing the tank at 90 percent of its capacity (the safe fill level) to minimize the potential for condensation and to allow for expansion. This protocol applies to fuel tanks of all shapes, sizes and composition.

In addition to a nearly full tank, it is also highly recommended that a stabilizer be added to the fuel prior to prolonged storage. The use of a stabilizer that effectively addresses water absorption can help to control microbial growth and extend the shelf life of fuel for 18 to 24 months. The increased lubricity and a boost to the octane/cetane will aid in maintaining fuel quality.

Water is public enemy No. 1 when it comes to maintaining fuel quality. Stabilization will only work when moisture is under control. Store the tank empty or full? Fill ’er up.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by 1955farm

Onan actually recommends 2 hours every month on the genny.

My manual says if it's going to be less than 120 days that it's idle, you don't need to run it at all.

[RogerR]

A partial or low tank will "breath" as the temp goes up and down each day with moisture in the air coming in and the potential for condensation.



My best suggestion is a full tank and try to avoid gasohol as it does not age well. There are gasohol stabilizing additives but I have no experience with them.

Diesel, choose your additive well as diesel also does not age well if untreated.

[Camper_bob]

I currently use Sta-Bil or Schaeffers. I find Sta-Bil does fine for my purposes.

I also have a can of Sea Foam as well, but I mostly use that in my small engines.

[NVGun40]

I will swear by Sea Foam or Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer for small engines, such as lawn mowers, generators, etc., and also in areas where the ethanol content is high. Otherwise, based on my experiences I do not use it. My personal experiences have taught me a couple lessons.

Living in Alaska, I ride a snow machine (snow mobile for the lower 48) a lot in the winter. During the summer it sits. Normally, when I put it away for the summer, I store with the cover on and under a tarp, parked with whatever gas was in the tank from the last ride. I had NEVER used any stabilizer in it for 3 years, and every winter upon coming out of storage, it started on the second pull. Then one year (four years ago) I following the directions explicitly and added Sta-Bil to the tank (Notice, I said I followed directions explicitly, so obviously, I ran it). The following winter when I brought it out of storage, it did not start on the second pull. It did not start on the 4th, 5th, 6th... etc. period, it did not start using starting fluid. I ended up having to drain the tank, and change the plugs (twice) in order to get it started. Note: my snow machine has an EFI engine. Since that year, I have gone back to my old routine of not using stabilizer. It has gone back to starting on the second pull after sitting all summer. (note: most snow machines (snow mobiles) have two stroke engines, but you don't pre-mix the fuel; they have a separate tank for the two stroke oil and direct injectors to mix the fuel before it goes into the combustion chamber). A second similar experience is with my two generators. One being a large contractor type 5500 watt generator which has sat with no fuel in for 3-5 years and started without issue two years ago. Meanwhile, my 2000 watt inverter generator had the same exact phenomena as my snow machine. The one year (same year I used stabilizer in the snow machine) I put fuel stabilizer in it for winter storage (instead of just emptying it and running it dry like I usually do), the following spring, I had a hell of a time getting it started, it barely started using starting fluid and would not stay running. I ended up doing the same as my snow machine; drain the fuel, put fresh fuel in and changed the spark plug.

Another experience I have. My son had been in a minor wreck with his Jeep XJ, it still would run, but the radiator was destroyed and it needed a front end and passenger side fender rebuild. At the time of the wreck (and when it was parked and put under a cover) it had close to a half a tank of gas. Because it was too costly to fix through insurance, my son bought a new truck. I removed and stored the battery, and would start the Jeep only twice per year letting it run just a few minutes because the engine had no cooling system. When we parked it we did not put any stabilizer in the tank or do anything to it for that matter other than cover it. So it would sit for six months at a time between starts. It sat this way for three years before I decided to rebuild it and use it for my daily commuter. After three years, with no stabilizer in the fuel, and only starting it twice per year I rebuilt it and started driving it. WITH THE THREE YEAR OLD GASOLINE. Never had any problem.
Now when it comes to my lawn mower and snow blower, I never use fuel stabilizer because I drain the fuel tanks and run them dry. Then I put Sta-Bil fogger in the cylinder before putting them in storage for the respective season. When it comes to my weed eater, and chain saw, I never use any stabilizer in them either, nor do I fog the cylinders, but they are two stroke engines. Nevertheless, I have never had a problem with these engines either. In fact I will admit, in over ten years, I have never replaced the spark plug on my weed eater.
Drawing on these experiences I started doing some research. reading reviews, watching you tube videos about storing engines, and using fuel stabilizers; videos about barn find vehicles which have sat for 10 years or more.... What I found is: Fuel stabilizers have their place. In small engines, and/or in places with high ethanol content fuel stabilizers are a must. In larger engines (larger 4 stroke, and car and truck engines) with zero ethanol content fuel (and even with extremely low ethanol fuel), a fuel stabilizer is not really necessary. These are my personal experiences (not something I have heard through other means).

In the end, it comes down to a couple of factors. 1) personal choice. 2) you need to know the common practice for the area you live. Do they put ethanol in fuel? How much? Fuel with no ethanol can go for years without turning rancid. What's the common weather where you live? is it a humid climate or a dry climate? 3) What is the type and size of engine?

P.S. I also leave 10 (or more) gallons of gas in my toy hauler fuel tank which I use throughout the winter in my snow blower, and sometimes in my Argo. Again, no stabilizer, and again, never a problem.