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Old 07-07-2016, 09:16 AM   #1
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Household power acceptable?

I'd like to keep my 31ul plugged into household current to maintain the battery charge and keep the fridge running. I assume that with the appropriate adapter plugged into my 50 amp line I can do this. However, I have learned not to assume. Advice?

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Old 07-07-2016, 09:26 AM   #2
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I've have done it for years for the same purpose without any problem. Just use common sense and don't overdue it. Like running the air or microwave.
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:08 PM   #3
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Actually one AC unit will run run on a dedicated 120v 20amp circuit. I've done it.
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Old 07-07-2016, 09:47 PM   #4
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I did it too Vickr - and after a few hours it burned out the fan motor in the AC due, I assume, to low voltage (I didn't have a progressive dynamics unit in that rig).
The biggest problem I had was the extension cord - I had a 14g "orange" extension cord between the house and the RV's power cord. Probably lucky it didn't melt.
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Old 07-07-2016, 09:50 PM   #5
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AC will run on a 20 amp 115v house circuit, but I would never do that. Especially on an extension cord. There is likely a significant voltage drop, which makes the compressor motor run much hotter than normal. It shortens the life of the motor, even if you think it's just fine. I would rather run a dedicated line out there with a 30 or 50 amp rating, and very large copper wire (maybe 6 gauge for anything over 50 ft or so). This, if you're planning on running the AC for more than a few minutes of testing.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:13 AM   #6
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I have a 30 amp service that was installed for my previous TT, With our new MH I use a 50 to 30amp adaptor to plug in, It keeps batteries charged Fridge running, and when we are packing to go I can run one of the AC units with no issues.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:56 AM   #7
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I run the AC on a dedicated 20amp circuit. I use a 10 gague extension cord. Only a 25 foot run. Have done so for 15+ years.
Checked voltage and it runs 110-112 with AC and the converter on. I run the refer on LP.

Would not do it with a smaller extension cord, and would not run with more loads.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhawkwest View Post
I'd like to keep my 31ul plugged into household current to maintain the battery charge and keep the fridge running. I assume that with the appropriate adapter plugged into my 50 amp line I can do this. However, I have learned not to assume. Advice?
Steve
The 250/125V 50A to 125V 30A adapter is readily available. Then the adapter down to 125V 15A.

Again, do not try and run any kind of heavy load (microwave or A/C) while plugged into a 15A circuit.

But it is a very good idea for keeping the battery topped up and the fridge chilled.
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Old 07-08-2016, 05:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I run the AC on a dedicated 20amp circuit. I use a 10 gague extension cord. Only a 25 foot run. Have done so for 15+ years.
Checked voltage and it runs 110-112 with AC and the converter on. I run the refer on LP.

Would not do it with a smaller extension cord, and would not run with more loads.
This is the way to do it ^^^. As long as the voltage is good with the A/C on, it indicates the load is not overpowering the existing wiring and other devices.

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I have a 30 amp service that was installed for my previous TT, With our new MH I use a 50 to 30amp adaptor to plug in, It keeps batteries charged Fridge running, and when we are packing to go I can run one of the AC units with no issues.
This is the best solution, if you can swing it. I never have, so when I adapt from 50 to 30 to 15 amp service, I only run the battery charger, and maybe a vacuum cleaner. Otherwise, I start the genset.
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:17 PM   #10
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New problem

Thanks for the assistance. I have encountered a new problem however. When I plug into household power (30 amp service) with an adaptor on my 50 amp line the gfci circuit in the house trips - not the breaker just the gfci circuit. I am using a large diameter extension cord also (not sure what gauge but heavy) Same problem at a friend's house.
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:06 PM   #11
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The GFCI senses current between the hot and neutral. If there is any current flowing from hot to ground the GFCI circuit will open. Most likely there is a neutral wire tied to a ground wire or a ground tied to a neutral. I would start at the panel and make sure all the grounds are landed the ground bus and the neutrals are landed the neutral bus. There is also the possibility of a defective appliance or in an outlet box the bare ground wire is making contact with the screw on the neutral on the receptacle.
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:11 PM   #12
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Reply to BuddyRay: Using an undersized electrical cord will cause an over current problem at the load this in tun will cause the voltage to drop and the motor now runs on less voltage causing more amperage to be drawn. You basically chocked the heck out of your AC motor and it burned up or the thermal overloads opened protecting the motor. I used a 10guage extension cord that I made and plugged it into a DEDICATED 20amp receptacle. The resulting voltage drop was less than 2 volts with the AC running. I test with a Fluke 84 true RMS meter.
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:13 PM   #13
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Are you sure that extension cord is ok. I'd try that first.
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:16 PM   #14
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Good point Shadester, the cord should be checked to see if there is any continuity between the neutral and ground using a ohmeter or multimeter.
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Old 07-09-2016, 03:24 PM   #15
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You should not plug your RV into a GFCI circuit. There are capacitors and MOV's in the RV converter that are connected between hot/ground and neutral/ground. A small amount of leakage in these devices will trip the GFCI. Sometimes you can get away with it. Most times you won't.

Have you noticed the 50 and 30 amp receptacles at the campground are never GFCI? This is why. Only the 20 amp outlet is GFCI and it is not intended to connect the RV.
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