Looking for some advise

[stimpey]

We just traded our 07 Seneca 35 and bought a 2015 precept 35un. couple questions I had my flagpole attaced to ladder now no ladder suggestions or input would be great. Also regarding a workaround for the tankless heater wife took first shower and it was fluctuating hot to cool any suggestions thanks Don

[William]

Use the hot water only and adjust the temperature on the wall thermostat. That's how my 2015 31 Ul works, you could make a bracket for the receiver hitch for the flag pole. congratulations on the precept you will probably miss the diesel and love the swivel captains chairs and windshield.


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[edfgrf]

Make sure you have right psi for the WH to work right.

[nma33]

Welcome aboard the Precept Owners club! We too have a 35UN, The water heater works great the way William describes to work it. We love ours. One modification I did was add the 5 star tuning, going on our 1st long trip since adding the tuning in about 4 weeks, 1,300 miles, will report back on how it goes.


All the best with your 35UN!

[Jopopsy]

Why did you trade out of the Seneca, just out of interest?

[dlibson]

The key with on demand is run the sink in the bathroom for a bit and get it to the temp you like hot qater only on. Then turn the shower on. Sink off, and enjoy.

[street rod 37]

I have a 2015 35un and love the coach do the CHF make big difference in handling of coach. The shower I put a cut off in front of the shower head and change thr shower head out. Have fun with the coach

[Garry48]

Never been in this situation...Will my rv withstand 23 degree overnight temp (50 degree daytime temps) without damaging waterline? Heading back from FL to North Carolina...please advise.

[street rod 37]

My coach froze toilet and sink faucet and water filter. Because some how my antifreeze got dumped. I would winterize!!!!

[Arniesports60]

re: tankless system. I found that you need to remove the water reducer
in the original shower head and I also use an adjustable water pressure
regulator on the hookup to get better pressure..

[anchorman]

Flag pole solution. I got a cheap handicap shower wall handle at Harbor Freight and screwed/glued the flagpole bracket to it. I just snap it on the windshield and slip the flag in the holder. You can buy them for +/-$80 at RV shows or build it for $30. Most of the cost is the flag, pole, holder.

[Seann45]

Try this flag pole holder from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-51611-H...ag+pole+holder

[sennister]

I can't speak to the water heater exactly in the RV application but a year ago we went to a tankless water heater in our home and it should be similar.

A short answer: Check what your water temp is set to. You might be better off turning down the temp. Set it so you only use hot water and not mix in cold at the point of use (shower in this case).

Long answer:
I have read of a lot of complaints about them when people first transition from a tank based system. This is because they are trying to use them like they used a tank system and the two are very different.

The benefit of a tankless is you have unlimited hot water where a tank system in an RV might only be a few gallons or 40-60 gallons in a home. With a tank system you want to heat your water much hotter than what you actually want at point of use. However there are scalding issues to watch for with small kids. With tankless you want to set the temp (assuming it is adjustable in an RV) to the highest temp you want to use. In a perfect system you will only turn on the hot water in a shower. It is more efficient to just heat the water to what you want rather than heat it way too hot then mix in cold water at the point of use. This is a source of a complaint from former tank system users. They say there isn't any hot water because they are used to turning on hot and cold in some form of mix. If they are using 100% hot and it still isn't hot enough, then turn up the temp a bit. With the old tank system if you were running 100% hot water at the point of use you were getting ready to run out of hot water but that won't happen with tankless.

The other thing to keep in mind is that there are limits on tankless systems. You would have to look in the owner's manual but things to look at are temp change based on temp. A tankless system can only change the temp a certain amount. This is normally reported as a delta. So that might be 45F at a certain flow rate of x gallons per min. Of course a household system like our 200K BTU system is much bigger than found in a RV. This matters because if you have your temp set to 125F which is where ours is set, and you are pushing the max flow where you only get maybe a 45F delta, well then unless your in coming water (city water or FW tank) is 80F or warmer, you won't be able to actually hit 125F. Of course bigger systems with more BTUs can get a higher delta on higher flows. With a home, your water temp probably does't fluctuate as much as it might with a camper. We are on a private well and our water temps are pretty close summer or winter even in MN as our well is pretty deep.

Also there is going to be minimum flow spec. So with a flow regulator, if you have the temp set too high where you are mixing in a lot of cold water to get it to temp, then your flow might not be high enough to keep the water heater going. Then the heater will be constantly cycling. This of course isn't good for it. Which is why a lower temp in the 120s if that is what you want is better than much hotter.

[Sptgclays]

Nice post Sennister! The delta 45F is good to know.
Explained very well thanks.

[sennister]

Originally Posted by Sptgclays

Nice post Sennister! The delta 45F is good to know.
Explained very well thanks.

Just want to mention they are not all going to be 45f. It is based on flow rate, BTU rating and efficiency of the heat exchanger. I just was throwing that delta out as an example. So check the manual or see if you can look up the make model and see what it says. Off the top of my head I don't recall what mine is in the house but when we were shopping for the water heater I did a lot of research and calculating what our flow usage is, inlet temps at different times of year location of the unit. All to figure out sizing. Overall we are very happy with it. Project start to when we actually fired it up the first time was well over a year. But we also ripped all the copper out of the house and went to PEX. We also had to upgrade the natural gas line coming into the house and completely change the venting.

The thing with a switch like this is if your old tank based water heater goes out don't do tankless conversion. Just replace it with another tank unless you can live without hot water for a while. It could be done in less than a year but to do it right you don't want to rush it. For us we knew our tank system (40gal) was old (1997) so it was a matter of time. As the kids were getting older we were having capacity issues. We had to time showers around laundry and dishwasher runs. Now we can do anything we want whenever we want. But we also went with a really big 200k unit. The taps also get hot water faster as we shortened the runs with the relocation of the heater and new PEX runs. We also saw a nice drop in the gas bill from the old to the new unit but that old tank system was pretty inefficient. So we would have seen some of those gains with a new tank system.

They do work well but in researching I saw a lot of complaints. In reading them the vast majority were because they were not using them right or they were not speced right. Up north we need a much bigger system than they may need down south in an area with shallow wells.

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[stimpey]

We loved our seneca just wanted the extra living space that an A provided