Mark's Upgrades to a 2021 Precept 34G

[Golfnut]

I have the same rig you have except its a 2020 and the JRide is excellent. I have no trouble doing 75 with the cruise control on. No trouble with trucks because I’m usually passing them. It’s taken a lot curves without dipping as long as the speed is right. I can’t imagine what more could be done to improve it.

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Golfnut

I have the same rig you have except its a 2020 and the JRide is excellent. I have no trouble doing 75 with the cruise control on. No trouble with trucks because I’m usually passing them. It’s taken a lot curves without dipping as long as the speed is right. I can’t imagine what more could be done to improve it.

Golfnut... it's great you feel you don't need any upgrades. Jayco, "J-Ride", from everything I've read or seen is just a trade-mark marketing slogan, i.e., the computer bal drive shaft, yellow hard plastic spring/bumper and the front/rear anti sway torsion bars are all Ford that comes with the 2020 Ford F53 chassis.

When I hit a bump in the road, it's crazy harsh! And the sway from wind and or trucks passing is significant..... significant enough it's uncomfortable to drive with one hand.

Good luck with yours.
I'll report back post suspension parts install and the next outing.

thx Mark

[mkassab]

Final word on the entire electric "system".

First back to the Jayco only set up. Jayco's installed Xantrex 1000w inverter is only an inverter. It gets its power from a 120V circuit breaker from the master power panel. The 120v circuit to the Refrig, TVs and a few receptacles connect direct to the Xantrex inverter vs the master power panel. Therefore, as long as 120V is provided to the inverter it's strictly a pass through to the Refrig, etc. Once 120v is lost (either from shore power, the onboard generator or turned off circuit breaker in the master power panel), the inverter automatically switches from 120v AC to 12v DC from the outside 12v coach/house batteries to then supply "inverted" 120v power to the Refrig, etc. That will continue as long as 12v DC power is supplied to the Xantrex inverter.

12v Charge is supplied to the engine/chassis and coach/house batteries from two possible sources from the factory:

• 1. the 12v converter/charger (mounted in the master power pane)l (works only when 120v is supplied to it).
• 2. the engine alternator (works only when the engine is running)
• and 3. since I've added Solar, charge power can also come from the battery bank #2 output of the Solar Controller "if" battery bank #1 is charged and the sun is shinning on the solar panels

The Go Power system I installed and the way I've configured it adds to the Jayco original setup vs replacing it.
The Go Power IC-2000 inverter/charger is installed between the transfer switch and the master power panel. This inverter also has its own 12v DC Converter charger to charge just the additional 6 batteries I installed (battery bank #1) . So if 120v AC is supplied to the IC2000, it's a straight passthrough to the master power panel (via an added EMS Surge protector I installed for added safety/clean power). In addition, if the Battery Bank #1 needs any charge, the IC2000 also does that.

Another Key Feature of the Go Power IC2000 is it can supplement 120v.... example: We normally connect to shore power that has 240v/50amps.... which equals 2 - 120v 50amp power legs (that's 100amps total) (240v x 50amps = 12000 watts). In this example, let's assume the site you're at doesn't have 240/50 connections, but it has a 120v 20amp (for a total of 20amps vs 100amps in a normal setup) (120v x 20amps = 2400 watts). As long as your rig doesn't go above a 20 amp/2400 watts draw, in this example, your good to go. However, go above a 20amp draw the shore power circuit breaker would trip. The "supplement" feature of the IC2000 is it can sense this and supplement up to it's capacity of 2000 watts.... to play this example out, let's assume the power requirements of the rig with required electric devices running equals a total of 30amps/3600 watts - (minus) the 2400 watts from shore power, the IC2000 will supply/supplement the extra 1200 watts required to service the 3600 watts needed.

Last final note. When shore power and generator power are not available (for whatever reason), in my configuration, and the IC2000 inverter is "on", the IC2000 will supply 120v ~16amps ~2000 watts of power to the master power panel. This will also provide the 120v AC power to the Xantrex inverter. With my configuration, I have the option to switch off the master power panel circuit breaker to the Xantrex inverter and therefore, the entire ~16amp/2000watts from the IC2000 is available to all the other 120v circuits in the master power panel. I can further switch off other circuit breakers to conserve power, like the 12v charger converter in the master power panel, etc. Since, in this example, I switch off the Xantrex inverter, the 120v needed from the Refrig, etc will now be supplied by the coach/house 12v batteries and inverted to 120v from the Xantrex inverter.

I know this can be a bit confusing, but it's all pretty straight forward and logical... just don't over think it. However, any questions/comments always most welcome.

Good luck to all who decide to add a Solar System to their rig, coach or TT.

Best,
Mark

[JDooley]

So.... answer me one question.

I have added 600w 24v [2] solar panels, victron 100/50 charge controller to charge the 2 6v batteries supplied by jaco. Still use jaco provided converter charger.
Dont want to install the 2 battleborn 12v 100ah as I dont want to cook the alternator. I have been told to change out the bim225 for the Libim225 ..will that prevent frying the alternator or is it still a good idea to disconnect the alternator from the huose charging circuit? If so which wire needs to be disconnected? Is it the ignition wire on the bim225?
I'm good without alternator charging

[mkassab]

JDooley....

First, not sure why anything would fry/cook your alternator.... what specifically do you think would do that?

First a few things need clarification.
1. the two jayco 6v batteries are connected in Series... from the coach/house battery and the engine battery & alternator perspective, it's a 12v battery.
2. Is your Victron Solar controller model SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 & 100/50?
3. Your words said Charge Controller, I assume you mean "solar charge controller"?
4. Solar panels can put out some higher voltage when measured direct from the solar panel +/- wires. The solar controller that the solar panel input to and converts it to 12v for charging your 12v battery. If you had 24v battery setup (which you wouldn't) the Victron is smart enough to output 12 or 24volts depending on the connected batteries.

Regarding the BIM (see pic below from my coach). The Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) in my coach is from Precision Circuits model 225 (the 225 stands for the BIM can handle 225amp continuous (load)). The key purpose of the BIM is to monitor battery state and voltage and charges the coach/house battery from the alternator and the chassis battery from the coach 12v converter/charger located in the master power panel. It also avoids overcharges from long drives. The manual clearly states the BIM does not guarantee 100% battery charge because of it's design... but does prevent harmful battery charge levels.

Pic 2 shows the wire schematic for this model BIM.

From my knowledge and "opinion", you're not going to fry/cook anything? You mention the Lithium BIM model.... that would only be used with Lithium Ion batteries.

Bottomline, need more info from your question/statement to under the issue you're trying to fix. I believe Jayco's design is just fine.

looking forward to more info.
Mark

[mkassab]

Well, today I'll put together the Demco Kar Kaddy SS Tow Dolly with Disc Brakes - Foldable - 4,800 lbs... (Pic 1) model KK460SB, Item # DM9713045 from eTrailer.com

This tow dolly is crazy well built, heavy duty and hot dipped galvanized throughout to help prevent rust, and it has its own steering vs using the TOAD steering. It has Surge disc brake vs electric. Based on the research I did, Surge brakes are the best option.... why?... 2 key reasons: 1) because with electric and no load on the tow dolly, the wheels/tires will lock up and 2) you don't need to install an electric brake controller in the coach.

I bought some extras with this unit also, i.e.,
1. the front Sentry Deflector shield to help prevent stone/debris from the rig hitting your TOAD (pic 2)
2. Spare Tire and spare tire mounting rack

The first thing I did was take all three tire/wheels to the shop to have them balanced. I also installed TST tire pressure and heat valve stem sensors on all three.

I laid out all the parts in the garage last night for assembly (pic 3)

This unit came complete with Disc Brakes (pic 4) and heave duty fenders/lights and mud flaps (pic 5).

There isn't too many parts to put together... but I'll have to adjust toe-in (easy) and bleed the brakes (pretty easy) and that's it.

I also bought from eTrailer some LED brake lights for the TOAD.... once I "build" them, I'll document it. However, I intend to mount the TOAD tail/brake lights to the back of the rear seat head rests in our 2019 Mini Cooper S. They will shine through the rear convertible window (therefore no outside weather and no scratches or holes needed to mount to the exterior of the Mini. I'll run the wires out the bottom of the driver's door (I'll just close the door on the wires and the weather seal on the door will hold and not harm the wires). I'll also add a 4-pin wire connector to the tow dolly wiring so the coach 4-pin wires/signals will run both the tow dolly lights and the TOAD tail/brake lights.

Stay tuned, much more.

Thanks Mark

From eTrailer.com link https://www.etrailer.com/Trailers/De...ll-description

Tow your vehicle without installing a tow bar or base plates. This galvanized tow dolly features hydraulic disc brakes for safe, controlled stopping and folding ramps for compact storage. Fits towed vehicle tread width between 42" and 76".

Features:

• Tow dolly makes it easy to tow different vehicles without installing a tow bar and base plates
• Ideal for cars with front-wheel-drive automatic transmissions
• Towing deck keeps front wheels of towed vehicle up and off the ground
• No need for a transmission lube pump system or driveshaft disconnect
• Foldable ramps and tongue stow away for compact storage
• Perfect for RV parks that aren't deep enough to accommodate both your motorhome and tow dolly
• Hydraulic braking system makes it safe and easy to stop while towing
• eZ-Latch surge coupler transmits braking signals - no need to buy a separate brake controller or 7-way plug
• Disc brakes provide more consistent stopping power and shorter stopping distance than drum brakes
• Steerable axle allows for tight cornering and easy maneuvering - tracks directly behind your motorhome
• Chrome wheels with radial tires
• Sealed bearings included
• Adjustable tie-down straps and winches included for secure tightening
• Straps designed for standard size tires - small and large tie-down straps sold separately
• Full LED DOT lighting package includes brake, tail, and turn signal lights, front fender marker lights, license plate marker lights, and a 4-flat trailer connector
• Wheeled jack makes it easy to maneuver dolly
• Easily swings up to stow alongside trailer tongue
• Safety chains included
• Galvanized finish resists rust and chipping
• Made in the USA

[JDooley]

I want to install two 100ah 12v battleborn lithium batteries which I have already bought.
As I understand the batteries will take all and anything the alternator can send.
Doing this will cause the alternator to get hot enough to cook.
I believe I need to replace the jayco provided bim-225 with a Li-bim 225 which is for lithium batteries.
The li bim225 controls the alternator and allows 15 minutes charging and 20 minutes no charge in and ongoing fashion to allow the alternator to cool.
I feel safer putting a switch on the wire which controls the alternator charging to allow me to only receive alternator charge and boost when needed if the chassis battery needs a jump.
My charge controller for the solar panels is the victron smart 100/50.
Without the alternator i will charge from 1, solar ,2, shore power and 3, generator.
Yes i will replace the house converter / charger in the panel with a lithium converter charger which would finish what i think i want.
Thank you for your reply.
Need to know which wire I need to install switch on to get thete

[dunk7105]

Originally Posted by mkassab

On our Precept 34G, we have a perm installed 56lb Propane Tank. I added a valve between the on/off tank valve and the propane pressure regulator. There are three key reasons to consider this addition... 1) If you run out of propane and don't want to drive off to have your tank filled or don't want to call an expensive truck delivered propane to have the tank filled, 2) The tank runs out of propane at a bad time and you urgently need more propane and 3) you want additional quick connects/disconnects. This additional propane valve manifold will allow all three reasons to be resolved.
NOTE!!!: The quick connect/disconnect that came from the factory is on the "regulated" side of the gas regulator.... and the new ones are on the "non-regulated" pressure side of the regulator. So, why/when would you use the non-regulated quick connects/disconnects?
Reason 1: your tank runs out of gas. You would close the coach propane tank valve and then attach a full stand alone propane tank to one of the "non-regulated" quick connects to feed the coach's regulator and therefore, feed all the coach's propane needs.
Reason 2: you want to attach an external propane device that has it's own gas regulator... e.g., we have the Weber Q2200 gas grill that has a gas regular built in. In this case, you may be using the Coach's main propane tank and/or the external propane tank.
To use and be prepared, you have to carry an extra propane tank with you. It could be a typical 20lb tank that can be swapped out at many convenient locations, e.g., Lowes, Home Depot, Convenience stores, etc that allow you to swap empty 20lb tanks for full ones.... and/or can can carry 30 or 40lb tanks to have more reserves (or two 20lb tanks).
It's a simple procedure to install:
Step 1: Turn off the propane tank valve, 2: remove the gas regulator cover, 3: remove the regulator from the tanks on/off valve (Remember, these are left hand threads), 4: install the new valve to the coach's propane tank valve, 5: reinstall the gas regulator to the new valve and put the regulator cover back on the regulator. You could drill a new hole to attach the cover to the metal bracket, or, as I did, use a simple zip tie to keep the cover in place.

Hope this might help someone,
Thx Mark

Do you happen to have a link for where you found the "splitter"?

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by dunk7105

Do you happen to have a link for where you found the "splitter"?

Sure do... Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Came with everything you see in the pics (copied from Amazon web site except the last one which is my insulation)

Mark

[dunk7105]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Our friends Kathy and Gary, who've been RVing a very long time gave us a tip we haven't ever heard of..... i.e., apply vinyl contact paper to the plywood platform that the king mattress lays on.... 2 key reasons: 1) is makes the mattress very easy to slide and make the bed/fitted sheets and 2) the rough plywood no longer can eat up the underside of the mattress. Pic 1 shows a dark wood grain vinyl contact paper we bought off Amazon for a few $'s.

Pic #2 shows the side wall of the bath room where we added a 1) second towel rack, 2) two different mag mirrors (one 10x and one 7x)... both good for shaving, makeup, etc., and 3) an additional bright LED light. I wired the light in from one of the factory LED lights (therefore, the new one goes on/off with the wall switch). The center 3-way switch on the new light can be off, right light on or both lights on.

One note on this post before I forget.... last night we took the coach back to our storage lot for parking (I'm sure the neighbors were happy the RV is out of the driveway). When hitting the Master 12V power switch (pic 3) the lights go off, the switch light goes off, but the switch does NOT disconnect all 12v usage, therefore for long term storage, the batteries will drain. At a minimum, I noticed at least 4 "things" using power after the switch is turn off: 1) the switch itself (since it's not a hard mechanical switch with contacts, it's a power switch that tells an electrical solenoid to turn on/off, 2) the actual Power Panel where the 120v/12v breakers/fuses are has lit LEDs that flash... which means it's drawing power, 3) the green light on the Propane Gas leak detector is lit and finally 4) the Sony radio/camera screen is always on. With the remote control for the Sony I can hit off and the "sound" stops. I can also hit "screen off" and the screen goes blank, however, the button are still lit and the internals are still powered to keep the settings/clock working. I could put in a master mechanical switch, but remember, I've added solar and want to batteries to keep charged.... so physically disconnecting the batteries is not an option. And because I do have Solar, I'm not too concerned with battery drain. Another option is I could pull some fuses that operate the Sony, propane gas detector, etc. What I'll do soon is add some small switches.... 1 for the propane detector and 1 for the Sony radio as there is just no reason for them to always be on.

One last comment for this post.... I've completely finished the solar/inverter/surge protector/battery install (with a minor exception.... I still need to in-wall mount the remote Solar inverter/charger panel, 2 Victron monitors that monitor battery banks 1 and 2 and the Surge protector monitor). All four are connected and readable, but not mounted just yet. These four monitors will be mounted on the bathroom wall next to the toilet. My next "many" posts to this thread will document the entire Solar install with lots of pictures.

So... stay tuned,
thanks Mark

Great content, Mark. Keep it coming.
Quick question about the towel bars that I've been wondering about: What's the best way to fasten stuff to the walls in these things? What fasteners do you suggest? Do Class A s have metal studs? Wood studs? How thick is the wall board material?
Thanks in advance,
Steve D

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by dunk7105

Great content, Mark. Keep it coming.
Quick question about the towel bars that I've been wondering about: What's the best way to fasten stuff to the walls in these things? What fasteners do you suggest? Do Class A s have metal studs? Wood studs? How thick is the wall board material?
Thanks in advance,
Steve D

Steve, I used the standard screws that came with the towel hanger. As you're aware, the walls are thin plywood, about 3/16" thick. I put the screws in until firm/hand tight so not to strip. The right side of the towel hanger fastener is in a wall stud. The left is the weaker of the two. This wall would have wood studs (i.e., it's an interior wall). They tend to be 2"x2" (which are 1.5"x1.5" finished)

If they endup not holding in the open wall/no stud area, I'd use these: https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Plated...%2C202&sr=8-18 Drill the hole vs hammering in with the point. These hold great. Just make sure the clamping area is 1/8" to 3/16" or they won't be tight

Mark

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by JDooley

I want to install two 100ah 12v battleborn lithium batteries which I have already bought.
As I understand the batteries will take all and anything the alternator can send.
Doing this will cause the alternator to get hot enough to cook.
I believe I need to replace the jayco provided bim-225 with a Li-bim 225 which is for lithium batteries.
The li bim225 controls the alternator and allows 15 minutes charging and 20 minutes no charge in and ongoing fashion to allow the alternator to cool.
I feel safer putting a switch on the wire which controls the alternator charging to allow me to only receive alternator charge and boost when needed if the chassis battery needs a jump.
My charge controller for the solar panels is the victron smart 100/50.
Without the alternator i will charge from 1, solar ,2, shore power and 3, generator.
Yes i will replace the house converter / charger in the panel with a lithium converter charger which would finish what i think i want.
Thank you for your reply.
Need to know which wire I need to install switch on to get thete

JDooley.... I'm not an expert and not even sure your assumptions are correct? The alternator is regulated and I don't think you'd fry it (my opinion) It wouldn't be any different than the alternator driving all your lights, battery charge, tow vehicle, etc.... that's what they do.

Your last comment (I highlighted in red) I'm still not clear on what you're want to do.... I assume you want to switch the power to the converter/charger? If yes, just use the circuit breaker. Turning off the circuit breaker will cut the 120v AC power to the converter and therefore, stop the output of the 12v DC converted power to the batteries.

hope that helps?

Mark

[mkassab]

Yesterday was pretty nice out and I decided to go to the rig where I store it to finish up a few items:
Installed A/C roof top covers on both A/C units (pic 1)
Stuffed Stainless Steel wool in both the engine and generator exhaust pipes to keep the rodents out (rodents don't like biting into steel wool, cuts their mouth/gums) (pics 2 & 3)
Installed the 4 wheel covers (pic 4)
Installed my small solar panel and battery tender charge controller for the engine/chassis battery. I used alligator clips to connect to the battery and the charge controller is laying on top of the battery to keep out of direct weather. (pic 5, you can also see all the parts in an earlier post above in this thread)

Behind each tire I put on the ground a bated mouse/rat box
https://www.amazon.com/Protecta-LP-R...s%2C196&sr=8-9
and rat/insect/snake sticky traps.
https://www.amazon.com/Catchmaster-B...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

This helps prevent rodent/snakes from entering the rig.

During my last gas fillup, I added gas stabilizer. I use PriG gas stabilizer
https://www.amazon.com/AAROND-Correc...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
.... it's much better than Sta-Bil, less cost and highly concentrated (only needed 5oz for 80gal of gas (while sta-bil needs 30oz for 80gal). I buy the PriG by the gal... will last forever.

While there, I ran the engine and generator for ~30 mins. I also installed the sun screens on the side & windshield.

Over the next few weeks, I'll be installing Garmin RV GPS, Dedicated camera monitor, homemade dog house topper, mounting the electric/solar panels in the bathroom wall, Replacing the living room TV with a OLED 4K TV, Installing sound bars on Living Room and bedroom TVs, Upgrading the Sony DVD that came with the Precept in the living room with a 4K Sony model and installing the living room Sony DVD in the Bedroom, etc.

So stay tuned, more to come.

Thx Mark

[ShouldBSailing]

Originally Posted by JDooley

I want to install two 100ah 12v battleborn lithium batteries which I have already bought.
As I understand the batteries will take all and anything the alternator can send.
Doing this will cause the alternator to get hot enough to cook.
I believe I need to replace the jayco provided bim-225 with a Li-bim 225 which is for lithium batteries.
The li bim225 controls the alternator and allows 15 minutes charging and 20 minutes no charge in and ongoing fashion to allow the alternator to cool.
I feel safer putting a switch on the wire which controls the alternator charging to allow me to only receive alternator charge and boost when needed if the chassis battery needs a jump.
My charge controller for the solar panels is the victron smart 100/50.
Without the alternator i will charge from 1, solar ,2, shore power and 3, generator.
Yes i will replace the house converter / charger in the panel with a lithium converter charger which would finish what i think i want.
Thank you for your reply.
Need to know which wire I need to install switch on to get thete

You will want to add the li bim225 - not so much to protect your alternator - but rather to protect the batteries from overcharging. LI batteries quickly soak up electricity right up to the point of being full (part of what makes them awesome). AGM batteries drop off in charge rate the last 20% and typical standard charges will fall off to float charging at a much lower voltage. With LIon batteries - the charger will think it's in bulk mode right up to the point of full and won't convert to float early enough - dangerously overcharging the batteries (and potentially overheating alternator).

I'm not sure if the converter connects into the bim as well - but you'll want to protect from overcharging on that as well / verify you can configure it or route it through the li bim.

[Foretm]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Have you ever been annoyed by the A/C lack of efficiency and noise? Well I just did something about it. It was totally new to me but it's a great design that was executed and manufactured well, yet so simple you'd wonder why this wasn't standard?.

It's call RV Airflow Systems... link: https://rv-airflow.myshopify.com/

I found these about a month ago, but my RV has been in the shop since before then, so I can't measure the plenum and verify fitment. I have the Coleman Mach 1 Power Savers in my RV. I fully intend on doing this when I get mine back.

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Foretm

I found these about a month ago, but my RV has been in the shop since before then, so I can't measure the plenum and verify fitment. I have the Coleman Mach 1 Power Savers in my RV. I fully intend on doing this when I get mine back.

Foretm... I think you'll be very pleased.... the amount of extra airflow through the vents and the significant lowering of the central area noise is worth every penny and it's such an easy job to do.

Mark

[ShouldBSailing]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Foretm... I think you'll be very pleased.... the amount of extra airflow through the vents and the significant lowering of the central area noise is worth every penny and it's such an easy job to do.

Mark

I've wondered if it is worth losing the ability to choose between the vents on the AC and ducts? Perhaps in high heat it's so good ducts can still cool down fast? Any experience in the worst of Summer yet?

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by ShouldBSailing

I've wondered if it is worth losing the ability to choose between the vents on the AC and ducts? Perhaps in high heat it's so good ducts can still cool down fast? Any experience in the worst of Summer yet?

No, I do not. But, with two A/C, this shouldn't be an issue.

Thx Mark

[Foretm]

I very rarely open my dump valves on the AC, but everything i've seen with ~40% increase airflow, i'm so dang excited to do this I can't see straight. I hope to get my rig back in a week or so. Had a branch fall on it at a state park, so its in for a roof repair. Small crack in the fiberglass, but very lucky no internal damage, just superficial fiberglass.


Here in Florida in summer, the RV can get quite hot if you don't keep the heat out. I use magneshades on all three front windows, to keep the heat out to start with. Highly recommend...

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Foretm

I very rarely open my dump valves on the AC, but everything i've seen with ~40% increase airflow, i'm so dang excited to do this I can't see straight. I hope to get my rig back in a week or so. Had a branch fall on it at a state park, so its in for a roof repair. Small crack in the fiberglass, but very lucky no internal damage, just superficial fiberglass.


Here in Florida in summer, the RV can get quite hot if you don't keep the heat out. I use magneshades on all three front windows, to keep the heat out to start with. Highly recommend...

Michael.... I can pretty much guarantee the first time you try the unit after the AirFlow system install you'll see debris come out of the air vents that never got pushed out before.

Mark