Mark's Upgrades to a 2021 Precept 34G - Page 6

mkassab · 01-12-2021, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Firedup

I am an RV newbe, still learning. Disconnecting Neg Battery will help while learn more about solar.

I have two house battery s I was thinking of two Lithium, two solar panels 160 rating and controller.

Thank you for the information

Go to Go Power Web site ( https://gpelectric.com/ ) to learn a lot more. If you go Lithium, you have to make sure it the right type for the Solar Controller you get (e.g., for Go Power, it's a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP) LiFePO4). Also, Go Power Solar panels are 190w each.... and as you saw in my post above in this tread, I installed 3 of them.

Good luck, Mark

conch02 · 02-05-2021, 05:05 PM

Brightsky -We have a 21' 34g flat towing a Lincoln MKX and we get 7.5-8.5 depending on terrain.

conch02 · 02-09-2021, 06:33 AM

Mark, thanks for all your info. Great stuff! We too have a 21' 34g
I am mounting a cell booster on the ladder and was thinking of running the antenna wire thru the solar port on the roof. Couple of questions, 1. think that will work? 2. where do the solar wires in that port run to? I have to get to the DVD cabinet above the sink in the galley. Your thoughts are appreciated.

mkassab · 02-09-2021, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by conch02

Mark, thanks for all your info. Great stuff! We too have a 21' 34g
I am mounting a cell booster on the ladder and was thinking of running the antenna wire thru the solar port on the roof. Couple of questions, 1. think that will work? 2. where do the solar wires in that port run to? I have to get to the DVD cabinet above the sink in the galley. Your thoughts are appreciated.

Conch02...
First, running your booster cables through the solar port... I don't think that would be easy or even possible. If you look at Pic 1 below and use the solar panel as a "scale" ref, i.e., the panel is 24" deep. That would put the solar wire port about 24" from the left side of the rig and about 24" forward from the rear. This position would be above the left side of the master bed and outside the cabinets above the bed. The solar port wires run through the roof/attic to the rig's back left corner and down inside the wall to under the bed (Pic 3).

Second, getting the wires to the DVD cabinet above the sink would not only be a very long run (you'd lose signal strength), but made more difficult for two reason... one, and most important, that space is in the slide pop out and 2 you'd have to figure out how to run the wires up from the bottom to the DVD cabinet.

Some thoughts and considerations. I'm not sure about your boost antenna mounting requirements, but here's my suggestion. This is what I'll be doing to mount my Pepwave outside antenna. I picked a central spot above the bathroom cabinets which are on the left side of the rig, and most important, a fixed wall, i.e., not a slide pop out. Looking at Pic 2, this would be just left of the bath roof mounted vent cover (Near cover and the Far cover is the shower skylight). and Looking at Pic 4, this is the bath cabinet with with Generator control box in it. That cabinet is ~6" deep. I'd drill a hole from inside the cabinet up through the roof centered on the exhaust vent to ensure you wouldn't drill though a rafter. However, you may have another choice to drill through the outside wall if you mount your boost antenna to the side vs the roof? I'll then mount my Pepwave in the cabinet by the generator controller. My Petwave has wifi built into it and would broadcast through the RV from this central spot. This location will also give you the shortest wire run possible. 12v DC power is located at the generator box if needed and 120v AC power is located just below the cabinet (pic 4 on wall by paper towel holder)

I hope that helps give you some alternatives. Don't hesitate to ask other questions.

Good Luck,
Mark

conch02 · 02-09-2021, 08:42 AM

Many thanks Mark! I got the Webboost Drive RV which calls for large separation from exterior antenna to internal antenna. My thought was a ladder install, bring it down through the solar port so I don't have to put a new hole in roof, then run to undercarriage and follow an existing 12 or 110 harness into the side out. Lots of power in the dvd cabinet. Just a thought. If I can't snake from solar port to cabinet, then I will regroup and follow your path. I can only hope the weboost actually works! A dome would have been easier. Not thrilled with the tv antenna. Maybe an all in one using that entry point. I will keep you posted. Thanks for the help!

mkassab · 02-09-2021, 09:35 AM

Another option is run your boost antenna wire down some gray elec pvc conduit pipe, zip tied to the ladder, a few 90* elbows and then under the rig and forget the solar prep box.... then up under the bed using existing hole in the floor, outside the bed box via the existing wire way from bed box to the bath base cabinets, see pic 1 (back right of bed box foundation) and pic 2 showing the wireway coming into the bath base cabinet by the toilet.

Mark

psw757 · 02-10-2021, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkassab

Have you ever been annoyed by the A/C lack of efficiency and noise? Well I just did something about it. It was totally new to me but it's a great design that was executed and manufactured well, yet so simple you'd wonder why this wasn't standard?.

It's call RV Airflow Systems... link: https://rv-airflow.myshopify.com/

I only discover it while watching some YouTube videos, in particular from Changing Lanes.... this couple have some good videos.

Anyway, I bought two AirFlow systems for my Coleman Mach 15 (front unit with Heat Pump) and Mach 3 (rear unit A/C only). The same kit does both models. It's very easy to install. However, once you take the internal covers off, you'll see how sloppy the factory install was, e.g., duct tape with gaps, holes and tears, my front unit was not centered on the roof opening and rotated a few degrees. But once the internal cover is removed and you then remove the 4 machine screw lag bolts from the internal mounting ring/hold down, you can easily center the top A/C unit (as it's just sitting on the roof with a rubber gasket and no chalk).

Once I had the covers off, I discovered a label inside each A/C unit that said you can add an auxiliary 1500w supplemental heating element that installs in the return air side of the unit. (see first pict below).... I found the aux heat elements online for about $70 each and ordered two (that will be a separate thread when I install them.... it's a simple single screw and plug in wiring.)

Now for the install of the AirFlow system.... Part 1 of 2 (I need two parts (threads) not because it's hard to install, but I have more than the 5 picture limit per thread)

As I said above, I first had to repair all the duct tape tears/gaps/holes (the second picture shows gaps/tears on both the left and right sides... which meant some of the air on the right (positive air pressure) was also going between the roof and the ceiling and the return air side on the left was sucking air (negative air pressure) from between the roof & ceiling).

Removing the internal "stuff" is easy... 4 screws remove the outside cover, 4 more screws remove the air diverter/deflector and lastly pull out the "pressure fit" rigid insulation board that "attempts" to separate the return air side from the output air side. The last two parts I just mentioned (i.e., rigid insulation board and the air diverter will not be needed or reinstalled). Note: on the removed rigid insulation board "divider"..... mine was not vertical, i.e., it was tilted and not sealing the return side from the output side. Either they weren't installed correctly or most likely, just moved/tilted from the force of the A/C being on and/or driving down the road from the movement vibrations/road bumps. Regardless, by this divider NOT sealing that means the output air, in large part, just got sucked out and went up the return air side and never going into the coach!

Once I cleaned up and installed new foil duct tape (pic 3), you then install the two kit supplied side air duct inserts (the kit only has 3 parts, the main center section that is the heart of the AirFlow system and the 2 side air duct inserts). I had to trim one end of each insert to fit the factory duct openings. The insets also have a foam weather strip on their backside that serve two purposes: 1) help seal the air and 2) creates a pressure seal between the inserts face and the center section (ridge foam) that you insert between the side duct inserts. The next to the last picture is one duct insert in the coach's air duct and the last picture shows the center section side I'm holding (the output side of air from the unit goes into the top and split out to the left/right ducts) and one of the duct insert is setting below the center section.

On to thread 2 of 2

Mark

We’ve been considering this for our Emblem 36T. Any issue running both units at same time with the increased flow through the duct work?

mkassab · 02-10-2021, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psw757

We’ve been considering this for our Emblem 36T. Any issue running both units at same time with the increased flow through the duct work?

No... none.

conch02 · 02-10-2021, 07:14 PM

Thanks Mark! Will take a look this weekend.

GMan215 · 02-23-2021, 09:12 AM

Thanks Mark for the info on heat and sound insulation!! I am very interested in how your plan works out. Too many years as a Ladder company officer has made me appreciate quiet, even though I have some hearing loss. Question: what will be the overall thickness of these layers and will you be installing them with the seats removed? I've often wondered how adding these mats will affect the ability to reattach any components that may have been removed. I'm hoping to hear from the dealer today about the insulation under my doghouse and what Jayco's response will be. Without the vehicle available to me, I haven't had any opportunity evaluate what is involved in the removal of the doghouse but hope it's not too involved. Thanks again for all you're teaching us newbies (RVs are laid out a lot differently than a ladder truck)! Gary

mkassab · 02-23-2021, 09:56 AM

Gary... This work is complete. My measurements will be estimates, but close.

I did not remove the seat. I felt if I removed it and then tried to bolt it down would result in two issues. 1) If I clamped down as tight as I could with the multiple layers and types of materials, the seat wouldn't be as stable and 2), if the layers where compress, how much noise would I actually reduce under the metal seat post?. So the direct answer is no, I did not remove the seat and just laid down all the material on the vinyl floor and around the seat post base.

The thickness on the vinyl floor was about 1.25" (1/8" extreme dynamat, 1/2" DynaLiner, 1/2" DynaDeck then then the carpet. You can see all this on pages 4 and 5 of this post.

For the doghouse, 1/8" extreme dynamat, 1.2" the ridge black foam from the factory and ~5/8" for the DynaHoodLiner. And as you'll see in the pictures, I also installed Dyna Hoodliner on top of the dog house inside the center console along with some fiberglass insulation under the dash/firewall areas

Taking the console apart is not that big of a deal..... again, my pictures show a lot of this.

Mark

ondaroadagain · 02-26-2021, 11:45 AM

Mark, if this reply comes through twice, excuse my clutzy posting ;-). Thanks for your instructive posts on upgrades. I've learned a lot, and just ordered a RVAirflow plenum upgrade for my 2018 Precept 31UL's Mach 15 A/C-Heatpump units. Can't wait to try them out. Regarding the auxiliary heating unit you mentioned, I called AirExcel's Coleman customer service folks, and they said that aux. unit only works if the heatpump fails and that it will only put out about as much heat as a hairdryer. I wondered if you had installed yours and what your experience with it was. I'd appreciate any insights you might offer. Thanks again. >Alan

mkassab · 02-26-2021, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ondaroadagain

Mark, if this reply comes through twice, excuse my clutzy posting ;-). Thanks for your instructive posts on upgrades. I've learned a lot, and just ordered a RVAirflow plenum upgrade for my 2018 Precept 31UL's Mach 15 A/C-Heatpump units. Can't wait to try them out. Regarding the auxiliary heating unit you mentioned, I called AirExcel's Coleman customer service folks, and they said that aux. unit only works if the heatpump fails and that it will only put out about as much heat as a hairdryer. I wondered if you had installed yours and what your experience with it was. I'd appreciate any insights you might offer. Thanks again. >Alan

Alan....
I'd think they are correct just because of the additional amps required for the aux heater (i.e, you couldn't run both the compressor and the aux heater on the same circuit). The aux heater only takes the "chill" off.... certainly not a full fleg heater replacement. I know it get hot quick.... ask me how I know (Dumb me touch it about a minute after I turned the unit on.... it was frickin hot that fast that I got burnt to cause a blister). Is it worth it....? that's a personal decision, but I figured I had the unit apart for the RV AirFlow, I just spent hundreds of $s for a piece of foam.... i.e, I said what the heck and bought it.... it's only money! BTW, Heat Pump air isn't that hot either, it's only about 90 degs. That's why the heat pump air feels cold against our 98 deg body temp.
Hope that helps the thought process.
Mark

PS: you'll see a new post from me soon, in this thread, for some SoftStart amp reducing units I'll install on both A/C units. Drops initial amp draw at startup from ~50amps by 65% to 75%. That's enough if you're plugged into a 30amp service, you can still run both A/C units.

ondaroadagain · 02-26-2021, 05:03 PM

Makes sense, Mark. Ouch. Can't tell you how many times I've touch-tested things like that and gotten burned too. You'd think I'd learn ... I look forward to your future posts. >Alan

mkassab · 03-01-2021, 03:18 PM

This SnapPad install took all of 10 min's....
Pic 1, lubed up all four pads with Dawn dish washing liq
Pic 2, lower jacks part way and align pad to shoe of jack
Pic 3, lower jacks all the way and the shoe snaps over the shoe plate of the jack
Pic 4, Jack raised in stow position.

Crazy easy.

Mark

ondaroadagain · 03-01-2021, 04:08 PM

You'll love them, Mark. I installed mine two years ago and have leveled on all kinds of surfaces, paved and unpaved, with them since, covering about 17K miles. They're one of the greatest RV innovations of all kind. And just think of all the used RV tires they're made of! Hope you have as good an experience with them as I have. >Alan

PS -- if you write a nice post about them on the SnapPad website, they'll send you some cool premium items. I got SnapPad coozy cups and a couple of other neat things.

mkassab · 03-03-2021, 06:42 AM

This past weekend, I finally had good weather to install 3 suspension upgrades to the F53 chassis under the 2021 Jayco Precept 34G.
1. SafeT Plus 41-230 Blue steer control stabilizer (pics 1 & 2)
2. SuperSteer SS401 Rear Trac Bar (pics 3 & 4)
3. SumoSpring Front spring SSF-170-40-2 (pic 5)

All-in-all, it's pretty easy given you have the tools, e.g., large size wrenches, sockets, etc. Took about 4 to 5 hours with the road tests for the from stabilizer. Lots of youtube videos to help if needed.

I can now let go of steering wheel and the rig tracks straight down the road.

Mark

EJB · 03-05-2021, 12:08 PM

I’m almost ready to do these exact updates to my 2018 Precept 31UL. Looking forward to your report on how these updated affect the ride.

Kognyto · 03-09-2021, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkassab

Quick update... I installed SunGuard Sun Shades on the front windshield and the driver/passenger side windows.... some simple drilling to mount shade clips and job complete..... behind each clip I added butyl sealant rubber tape. The shades will help keep the Sun's heat out of the coach, but you can see through them from the inside. Only "issue" is you need a ladder to mount/dismount them. Shades came with a nice storage bag. I bought a cheap, very light weight 6' Step Ladder I'll store/mount on the coaches rear roof ladder with with bungie cords. I also need a ladder to open/close the stove vent fan's outside vent flap.

Roof Vent Fans: The living area has a nice high quality roof vent fan, but the bath had a cheap/noisy little vent fan. So I bought an reversible / multi speed fan for the bath area. Just had to cut out the small fan and bracket with some tin snips.

Lastly, I bought insulating "pillows" for each roof vent fan and the shower's skylight.

Stay tuned, much more to come. I'm moving more inside the coach for the solar, batteries, inverters, surge protector, home made tray to mount on the dog house to neatly mount the RV GPS, TST monitor and the Camera Monitor.

BTW, thanks for some of the nice comments I've received via PMs.

Note: A couple people suggested this thread be a "Sticky".... Maybe so, but I can't do that. Only the Forum's monitors/web master can do that.

Thanks all,
Mark

Did you add vent covers on the roof? I'm curious if I need to invest in those or just the interior vent inserts.

mkassab · 03-09-2021, 04:30 PM

Kognyto,... Yes, I did install black vent covers... look at Page 1 of this post's thread, about 4 or 5 post deep on page 1. I did this for several reasons:
1. No worries if it rains
2. I can drive down the road without fear of the wind breaking the OEM vent covers
3. UV protection (cracking) of the OEM vent covers
4. help blocks Sun heat radiating into the coach

Mark

PS: thanks for the kind PM you sent me!

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