Mark's Upgrades to a 2021 Precept 34G

[Jopopsy]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Installed the 4 wheel covers (pic 4)

Hey Mark, what wheel covers did you end up going with? 22.5 tires right?

[mkassab]

Yes on the 22.5" wheel.

I bought Magneshade wheel covers. I also bought their front windshield, front drivers/passengers side window covers and wiper blade covers.

Link: https://www.magneshade.com/product/tire-shades/

Pic below is their stock pic.... cover allows wheel to show. Crazy easy to use and store.

Mark

[jimj1958]

Hey Mark,
which snap pad did you end up with.
Thanks,
Jim

[Tumbleweed99]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Dan,

The Sumo springs would be the better ride part given the Ford part you're replacing is nothing more than a hard bump stop where the Sumo is more spongy/springy.

Given you already have the Ford anti-sway bar, I'd do the Trac Bar first, then the roadmaster sway bar only if needed after the trac bar.

That's what I'd do.
Mark

Hi Mark,
Just an update: Installed the Track Bar (actually, my son-in-law volunteered to install it. He is a mechanic and has the torque tools and an RV garage). Everything went together fine. Sumo springs sometime later this year. I'm currently trying to get the fridge to cool properly. Purchased a "Snip-the-Tip" control, a circulation fan, and remote freezer/fridge monitor. Hope this works. On shore power it cools really good. But on propane we were having issues with not cooling well enough. Also, the gas flame kept sputtering, which was an annoying sound at night. I turned down the regulator for the flame and it helped, but I think it may have contributed to the fridge not cooling too well. I'm planning on removing the tubing and flushing it out. Also maybe trying to blow out the part where the flame comes out to see if it clears up the sputtering problem. Also gonna re-route some wires that are too close to the hot tubing. One is even resting on the tubing. The Norcold fridge was replaced about a month ago, so I think that they rushed it out and left a rats' nest of the wiring.
DanL

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by jimj1958

Hey Mark,
which snap pad did you end up with.
Thanks,
Jim

Hey Jim,

This is what I bought:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...d/SP84FR4.html

SnapPad Jack Pads for Class A and C Motorhome w/ 10" Octagon or Concave Round Jack Feet - Qty 4
Item # SP84FR4

Mark

[TGoldsbury]

On the snap pads, make sure the bottoms of your jacks are really really flat, otherwise the the snap pads may not snap in. I bought four, two of my jacks you could see a little curvature in the bottom, pads wouldn't stay on. I was able to return them to etrailer, but they did charge a restocking fee.

[Palms]

What a great explanation. The valve should be here tomorrow and will try in my own and report!

[Jopopsy]

Originally Posted by Tumbleweed99

Mark,
Thanks for your help. The Ford chassis should have a rear sway bar as stock part of the vehicle, but I will check it later today. I've been doing a lot of reading in several forums and websites, and there's a lot of opinions out there as to which item works the best. I'd like to do several improvements to the suspension, but can't afford all at once. Some people say that the upgraded anti sway bar is the best, others say that the trac bar is the best improvement for the ride. I understand the apples and oranges aspect of each product, so it seems that the trac bar would be the best thing for me to do next. The F53 has the stock sway bars, but no trac bar. My main concern is the driveability on the freeway. Passing semi's are a concern, but mostly because I live in an area where we commonly get high winds, here locally, and through the high elevation passes. Since I have to travel those passes and wind-effected low lands, I need the RV to track as best possible on the road.
I'm also considering the Sumo springs in the future. Between the two, should I install the Sumo springs first, or the Roadmaster anti-sway bar first (in your opinion)? the SuperSprings website claims that the Sumo Springs will improve handling, remove sway, and decrease vibration in your motorhome. The site also has installation videos, which is nice, since I'm also hoping to install these myself (or have my son-in-law do it, since he is a mechanic!)
Thanks again for your insights. This is helping me a lot.
Daniel

Originally Posted by mkassab

Dan,

The Sumo springs would be the better ride part given the Ford part you're replacing is nothing more than a hard bump stop where the Sumo is more spongy/springy.

Given you already have the Ford anti-sway bar, I'd do the Trac Bar first, then the roadmaster sway bar only if needed after the trac bar.

That's what I'd do.
Mark

If you have the 7.3L F53, Ford made improvements to the suspension components; from what I can gather most believe it to be thicker sway bars. If you have the V10 F53, upgraded sway bars may prove beneficial however the jury is still out on the newer chassis.

[2021Emblem36U]

What monitor did you buy for the back up cameras?

Thanks for doing this BTW!

I have a 2021 Entegra Emblem (made by Jayco)

Originally Posted by mkassab

To complete the Console area modifications, I insulated the inside and floor of the console (using Dyna Hoodliner) and stuffed fiberglass in any voids I could find in & under the dash (wherever I could reach).

On the left side of the console (pic 1 & 2) I cut out and mounted a master 12v accessory panel that had a standard size cig lighter 12v socket, 2 USB 5v sockets, 5 rocker 12v switches with "on" indicator lights and a digital voltmeter.

I used 3 of the switches...

1. I attached the main 12v power to the radio to sw1 (since it was always hot & on from Jayco)
2. I attached the main 12v power to the Garmin RV 890 GPS (pic 3 front)
3. I attached the main 12v power to the Rear View Safety (RVS) Quad View Backup/Side mirrors Camera 7" monitor (pic 3 back)

Since I was adding the RVS monitor, I removed the factory PAC Camera Switch (pic 4). By removing the PAC camera switch, I also am not sending any video to the Sony 3000 radio. The new RVS monitor now receives 3 camera inputs (back, left & ride sides), and 3 +12v triggers from the reverse lights and the left/right turn signals). In normal mode, the RVS monitor displays all 3 camera videos simultaneously (it has the ability to display 4 cameras if you'd want to add a front camera) and when a +12v trigger is detected, that camera video fills the entire screen. The color video quality is high resolution and much better that the factory video on the radio screen. The switch between video is very fast, near real time.

Finally, if you look closely at pic 3 (click on it to enlarge the picture), you'll see I mounted the "hands free" mic, from the radio for mobile phone use, to the top of the steering column from the lower left side where the factory mounted it.

Still to come is changing out the 50" living room TV to an LG OLED 4K Smart TV, adding a dedicated DVD player to the rear bedroom TV and a sound bar with remote subwoofer to both TVs. In addition, I'll be installing MobileMustHave.com Ultimate Road Warrior Bundle with MobileMark external antenna Link: https://www.mobilemusthave.com/Ultim...rk_p_1213.html I have a few other odds and ends like adding Vents to the Generator door to help reduce heat, propane fire pit, and maybe a table top to replace the small "cup holder" style table that installs between the two front seats that came from the factory with something a little larger that I can use for a desk.

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by 2021Emblem36U

What monitor did you buy for the back up cameras?

Thanks for doing this BTW!

I have a 2021 Entegra Emblem (made by Jayco)

As point #3 clearly says, the monitor is Rear View Safety (RVS) Quad View Backup/Side mirrors Camera 7" monitor

here's the link: https://www.rearviewsafety.com/safet...r-monitor.html

Mark

[mkassab]

Well, I have the rig back in the driveway to continue my upgrades. So here's yesterday's report card.

First, I'm adding a Pepwave Cellular/WiFi unit and bought the upgrades CAT 12 and 7 Antennas roof mount mount antenna (4 Cellular, two WiFi and 1 GPS antennas) in one package from MobileMustHave.... here's the link if anyone wants to read the details https://www.mobilemusthave.com/Ultim...rk_p_1213.html
They have many packages to choose from.

Yesterday was all roof work, i.e., Antenna and two A/C Micro-Air EasyStarts 364 (one for each A/C unit). My front A/C Unit is a Coleman Mach 15 A/C & Heat Pump and the rear A/C only Mach 3

The first picture shows the Cellular/WiFi/GPS antenna with a metal base, seam seal strips and Diacor applied. Under the seam seal, I drilled 4 screw holes (3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock positions). I then pushed the antenna/base down to the roof to seal tightly and then installed the 4 SS Screws through the base plate.

Pic 2 shows the Diacor sealer around the plate, antenna to the plate and the screw heads..... no leak here.

Pic 3 shows the Mach 15 Micro-Air mounted using double sided 3M heavy duty mounting tape after cleaning both surfaces very well with rubbing alcohol.

Pic 4 shows the Mach 15 wire nest where you connect the 4 Micro-are wires. Micro-air provides A/C unit specific instructions..... Very easy!

Pic 5 shows the Mach 3 Micro-air mount location.

I'll show the inside Pepwave install later.... but today I want to continue to take advantage of the partly cloudy sky, mid 70's temp and do more outside work, i.e., Tire/wheel (Balance Master rings and Tru-Balance centering sleeves), new spark plug wires from the recall (much easier while the front tires are off) and check/top-off the rear differential axle (another Ford Recall). If the rear diff is very low, I'll take to Ford dealer incase there could be bearing issues.... otherwise, I'll just check and top off if needed.

So, stay tuned... lots more coming.

Side note and very happy discovery of the roof/ceiling of the Precept. The install of the antenna required me to drill a 1.25" hole in the roof/ceiling. I was very happy to discover the following:
1. the fiberglass roof was bonded to 1/4" plywood,
2. the ceiling was vinyl interior followed by 1/4" sponge foam bonded to aluminum sheet.... this would make a great vapor barrier and sound deadener.
3. between the ceiling and the roof was solid white foam insulation.... not a flemsey thin layer of fiberglass. Congrats Jayco.

Mark

[Foretm]

Mark, you'll love the Pepwave Max Transit Duo. I've had one for a little over 2 years now, and its amazing what its capable of. I bought it from Mobile Must Have as well, only difference is I chose the Poynting 7-in-1 antenna. In my RV, there is a cabinet next to the fridge above the microwave, so I was able to go out the cabinet side wall to behind the fridge and up to the fridge vent and mount antenna there.

The antenna is throughbolted to the fridge vent, and the hole out the cabinet is behind the 45 degree panel that hides the wiring for the outlet for the microwave, so no antenna extension cables needed. The cat 6 cables from the Dish and DVD player come through the false wall between the media cabinet and cabinet where the pepwave is mounted.

[mkassab]

I couldn't complete the wheel/tire Tru-Bal or Balance Master rings yesterday for various reasons.... however, once I had the front wheels off the rig, it made easy work to replace the OEM recalled Spark Plug wires. The pics below show the significant changes to the spark plug wires to correct the issues the originals had.

Pic 1 shows the right side of the engine and clear view of the spark plug wires.

Pic 2.... left plug wire is the new "improved" wire and the original on the right. 3 key things to note.... the barrel around the plug is bigger diameter, the head/bend is much larger and the shielding around the wire itself is also larger... therefore offing more heat protection.

Pic 3... same. left wire is the new one. Also note they installed a spring. Not sure the purpose of that. The only thing I can think of is maybe is sort of a heat sink as it would contact the metal nut part of the spark plug??? Also, note the correct part number of the new wire on the parts bag. The wire itself has the same part number as the original.

Pic 4 shows my new 42" torque wrench to remove and install the 450 ft lb lug nuts.... believe me, you need the leverage!

Pic 5 shows the Balance Master balancing rings.

BTW, some specs for Reference for Precept 22.5" wheels.... stud is 22mm, lug nut is 33mm and lug torque needed is 450 ft lb.

I had a great discussion with Ron Webster (owner of Tru-Bal) yesterday. Tru-Bal centering sleeves needed for my setup is 1611AS front/steer and 5004AS rear/drive. I had the wrong size and hope to have the correct ones shortly to complete the job.... which I'll detail the install.

Lastly, while under the engine/chassis, I discovered some melted wire casings/tubes... so I wrapped them up in heat shielding and move up and over the frame away from the exhaust. You sure have to wonder why Jayco didn't do a better job of this? Bad or No QA!

Mark

[Jopopsy]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Lastly, while under the engine/chassis, I discovered some melted wire casings/tubes... so I wrapped them up in heat shielding and move up and over the frame away from the exhaust. You sure have to wonder why Jayco didn't do a better job of this? Bad or No QA!

Mark

What did you use for the shielding? I’d like to have some on hand just in case.

[Jopopsy]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Pic1... base floor driver's side
Pic2... Dynamat Xtreme applied driver's side
Pic3... Dynamat Xtreme applied passenger's side
Pic4... DynaLiner applied driver's side.
Mark

Mark, what thickness DynaLiner did you go with?

Also, after all was said and done, do you feel this upgrade had a good bang for the buck?

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Jopopsy

What did you use for the shielding? I’d like to have some on hand just in case.

I used Design Engineering heat shield wrap.... from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engine...%2C281&sr=1-11

I also will install this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CF2RHB6...ing=UTF8&psc=1 on the tail pipe coming off the exhaust manifold to help keep the heat from radiating upwards towards the wires and coach floor. This product will be delivered today and I'll take pic once installed.

Pic 1 shows the heat shield wrap with ss zip ties
Pic 2 shows how I tucked up the wire bundle on top of the chassis frame.
Pic 3 shows the exhaust pipe I'll warp with the second product I ordered.
Pic 4 shows another wrap I did in front of the right side exhaust manifold

Mark

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Jopopsy

Mark, what thickness DynaLiner did you go with?

Also, after all was said and done, do you feel this upgrade had a good bang for the buck?

I used the 1/2" thick DynaLiner xtreme

Was it worth it.... Absolutely! Much less engine/road/tire noise and radiated heat through the floor and doghouse. We can now carry on a conversation without shouting.

Mark

[Jopopsy]

Originally Posted by mkassab

I used the 1/2" thick DynaLiner xtreme

Was it worth it.... Absolutely! Much less engine/road/tire noise and radiated heat through the floor and doghouse. We can now carry on a conversation without shouting.

Mark

Awesome !

[mkassab]

Well, I received my formal recall letter from Ford re: rear axle diff oil level and bearing/seal replacements.

I did craw under the rig yesterday and checked the oil level... well, it's wasn't too bad.

On the bottom fill plug/hole, I was down about 1/2" or a ~1.5 pints. So I topped it off. The process I used was to remove both the top and bottom fill plugs. The bottom is the correct fill hole level, i.e., you fill the diff until oil runs out of the bottom plug (if you look closely at pic 3 & 4 you'll see the word FILL by the bottom plug/hole. The word FILL is also on the top, but upside down for when the axle/diff is is flipped/reversed for from 4 wheel drive) What I did was add oil to top plug until oil ran from the bottom hole. Much easier to see and work while laying on my back/side. I used Ford spec full synthetic gear oil, Valvoline 75W-140

Mark

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Foretm

Mark, you'll love the Pepwave Max Transit Duo. I've had one for a little over 2 years now, and its amazing what its capable of. I bought it from Mobile Must Have as well, only difference is I chose the Poynting 7-in-1 antenna. In my RV, there is a cabinet next to the fridge above the microwave, so I was able to go out the cabinet side wall to behind the fridge and up to the fridge vent and mount antenna there.

The antenna is throughbolted to the fridge vent, and the hole out the cabinet is behind the 45 degree panel that hides the wiring for the outlet for the microwave, so no antenna extension cables needed. The cat 6 cables from the Dish and DVD player come through the false wall between the media cabinet and cabinet where the pepwave is mounted.

Michael.... I sent you a PM.

Thx Mark