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Old 11-20-2020, 07:25 AM   #1
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Mark's Upgrades to a 2021 Precept 34G

I'm starting this thread to share all the changes, additions/upgrades to my 2021 Precept 34G. It will be long running thread over the coming months as I do each project. Questions, comments are most welcome. I'm taking some time off during this holiday period before it gets too cold. With the good weather, I'll focus on outside "stuff" first. Some things I'm doing, in no particular order are solar panels, the addition of a separate Go Power IC-2000 inverter/charger/transfer switch in addition to the Janco systems 1000 watt inverter and transfer sw. Six addition batteries, dedicated rear camera screen to show all cameras at once, Air Pressure monitors for the coach, car tow dolly and the car, CrossFire dual air pressure equalizers, Garmin RV GPS, suspension additions, washer/dryer, electrical monitors, propane expansion, level pro install, Sun Screens, vent covers, rear mud flap, car haul dolly, sewer line PVC holder, Sound Bar/sub-woofer, surge protector, generator side door vents, bath fan upgrade, and so much more.

So, if your interested in all this.... hit the subscribe button so you get all the notifications.

Welcome aboard, Mark
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Old 11-20-2020, 09:49 AM   #2
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Sounds like you will have your hands full this winter! Post lots of pictures along the way.
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Old 11-22-2020, 04:44 AM   #3
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SunShades, Solar Pnls, Propane Valve and Vent covers

First up some good weather outside stuff.
1. I installed 3 Go Power 190W Solar panels. Jayco had pre-installed the Go Power roof top plug adapter where you connect the + & - DC plugs to. They are wired in parallel, male/female (+/-) adapters that also can be daisy chained. The GO Power adapter can accommodate up to 30 amps with 10-gauge wire, so it can handle up to 3 190watt panels. If you'd want to add more solar panels, you'd have to upgrade the wiring to handle the additional current flow.

I laid out the panels in such a way to minimize wire run length and shadows from the A/C unit and vent covers. I installed the panels flat on the roof using the mounting pads that came with the solar panels. I considered installing tilting brackets for low angle "winter" sun, but given I'd never know azimuth/compass angle of the parked coach and knowing most of my travels will be in the months with the sun angle is high, I took the easy path.

Under each mount pad, I applied butyl tape, use 3 ss screws in each pad and then covered all with Dicor self leveling sealant. I also used ss wire tie hold-downs. If you look close in the picture, you can see this detail.

In the last picture, you can see I installed to Max Air black vent covers. These vent covers will help block the heat from the sun through the vent, extend the life of the vents by blocking the Sun's UV rays and allow the vent to be open when raining and/or driving down the road.

Also, while up on the roof, I washed it very well and applied AeroSpace 303 UV blocker/conditioner for the entire roof/fiberglass, the A/C covers, the Vent Covers and the Shower skylight cover. I'll use the 303 on the entire coach. It's a easy spray and wipe. For the roof applications, I poured it out and used a Swifter with a cotton wash cloth attached to it.... i.e., used like a mop to spread the 303 out I poured on the roof.... I did about a 1/4 cup at a time.

Up next, vent fan replacement, insulation pillows and windshield SunShade install.

Mark
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Old 11-22-2020, 08:26 PM   #4
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Looks nice I'm doing a lot of the same on my 2020 34g
2 - 300w. 24v renogy panels and lithium batteries. Now trying to figure out how to protect the alternator from overheating or stopping it from charging the house batteries.
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Old 11-22-2020, 08:27 PM   #5
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If interested send me a pm to stay updated jay3425@yahoo.com
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Old 11-23-2020, 04:33 AM   #6
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Rear mud/stone guard

Rear mud/stone guard install. I ordered the Ultraguard set up (link: Ultra Guard - SMART SOLUTIONS ), i.e., top ss angle iron mount, heavy corded rubber guard and the bottom ss stiffener with reflectors and associated hardware. I bought the 20" high guard. Note: make sure your hydraulic levelers are up and the coach weight is all on the tires for proper fitment.

I set up some saw horses to make a table and laid out all the parts. You have to drill out all the holes in the rubber using the top and bottom ss as a template. I replaced the nuts that came with the hardware with nylon locking nuts. As you'll see in the pictures below, I used 2 U-Bolts (typically used to clamp braided cable together) to attach the guard to some chain links. I expanded the ends of the left and right chain links to fit over the 1/2" hitch bolts as I used these hitch bolts as the point to hang the guard from.

I needed a little help to lift the guard in place to hang... as it's a bit heavy and awkward to maneuver while laying on the ground.

I added this guard as additional protection to the TOAD. Later, I'll show the Tow Dolly I bought and put together (bought from e-Trailer), a rock/chip guard that mounts to the tow dolly and a windshield cover for the TOAD. I also bought from e-Trailer a set of LED brake/tail lights and cables I'll mount to the TOAD.... all documented in this tread.

Mark
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Old 11-24-2020, 06:10 AM   #7
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Propane Tank add-on

On our Precept 34G, we have a perm installed 56lb Propane Tank. I added a valve between the on/off tank valve and the propane pressure regulator. There are three key reasons to consider this addition... 1) If you run out of propane and don't want to drive off to have your tank filled or don't want to call an expensive truck delivered propane to have the tank filled, 2) The tank runs out of propane at a bad time and you urgently need more propane and 3) you want additional quick connects/disconnects. This additional propane valve manifold will allow all three reasons to be resolved.
NOTE!!!: The quick connect/disconnect that came from the factory is on the "regulated" side of the gas regulator.... and the new ones are on the "non-regulated" pressure side of the regulator. So, why/when would you use the non-regulated quick connects/disconnects?
Reason 1: your tank runs out of gas. You would close the coach propane tank valve and then attach a full stand alone propane tank to one of the "non-regulated" quick connects to feed the coach's regulator and therefore, feed all the coach's propane needs.
Reason 2: you want to attach an external propane device that has it's own gas regulator... e.g., we have the Weber Q2200 gas grill that has a gas regular built in. In this case, you may be using the Coach's main propane tank and/or the external propane tank.
To use and be prepared, you have to carry an extra propane tank with you. It could be a typical 20lb tank that can be swapped out at many convenient locations, e.g., Lowes, Home Depot, Convenience stores, etc that allow you to swap empty 20lb tanks for full ones.... and/or can can carry 30 or 40lb tanks to have more reserves (or two 20lb tanks).
It's a simple procedure to install:
Step 1: Turn off the propane tank valve, 2: remove the gas regulator cover, 3: remove the regulator from the tanks on/off valve (Remember, these are left hand threads), 4: install the new valve to the coach's propane tank valve, 5: reinstall the gas regulator to the new valve and put the regulator cover back on the regulator. You could drill a new hole to attach the cover to the metal bracket, or, as I did, use a simple zip tie to keep the cover in place.

Hope this might help someone,
Thx Mark
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Old 11-25-2020, 05:06 AM   #8
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Tire Monitoring, Dual Pressure Equalization and Warnings

This sub thread is all about Tires, pressure monitoring, and dual rear tire pressure equalization for wear. Other than ensuring my tire pressure is set correctly, 90 psi in my case (front & rear), I added two devices.

1) TST tire pressure monitoring kit.... Color system Model #507 Series 6
Link: https://tsttruck.com/507-series-6-rv...r-display.html
I ordered 4 extra sensors for a total of 10 (2 front, 2 rear (yes, I have a dually, but you'll see below how I was able to use one per dual tire set vs 2), 2 Car Tow Dolly and 4 for the TOAD

2) CrossFire - Dual Tire Equalization system.
Link: Crossfire - Dual Dynamics
Video:
I won't repeat the details/benefit of this system as the link and video above give great details.

In a few pictures, you'll see a tool I have that looks like a pop rivet gun, but it's a captive nut install tool. The captive nut is part of a rimmed cylinder that screws onto the tool. The captive nut is then inserted into a drilled hole, the tool handles are squeezed together to draw the nut up and flair the sides out on the back side of the hole I drilled.... therefore the name, Captive Nut. They come in various sizes, in my case, I used 1/4" for the bolts to mounts the monitor device brackets to each of the dual rear wheel hub caps.

As you'll also see in the pictures, I added a single TST tire pressure monitoring cap... i.e., since both Dual tires and now tied together, I only need one cap monitor. Once each captive nut is installed, I used grade 5 bolts, washer and lock washer along with 242 Blue Locktite.

Now, on to the next project.
Thx Mark
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Old 11-25-2020, 05:34 AM   #9
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SunGuard Sun Shades & Vent Fans

Quick update... I installed SunGuard Sun Shades on the front windshield and the driver/passenger side windows.... some simple drilling to mount shade clips and job complete..... behind each clip I added butyl sealant rubber tape. The shades will help keep the Sun's heat out of the coach, but you can see through them from the inside. Only "issue" is you need a ladder to mount/dismount them. Shades came with a nice storage bag. I bought a cheap, very light weight 6' Step Ladder I'll store/mount on the coaches rear roof ladder with with bungie cords. I also need a ladder to open/close the stove vent fan's outside vent flap.

Roof Vent Fans: The living area has a nice high quality roof vent fan, but the bath had a cheap/noisy little vent fan. So I bought an reversible / multi speed fan for the bath area. Just had to cut out the small fan and bracket with some tin snips.

Lastly, I bought insulating "pillows" for each roof vent fan and the shower's skylight.

Stay tuned, much more to come. I'm moving more inside the coach for the solar, batteries, inverters, surge protector, home made tray to mount on the dog house to neatly mount the RV GPS, TST monitor and the Camera Monitor.

BTW, thanks for some of the nice comments I've received via PMs.

Note: A couple people suggested this thread be a "Sticky".... Maybe so, but I can't do that. Only the Forum's monitors/web master can do that.

Thanks all,
Mark
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Old 11-25-2020, 09:27 AM   #10
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We did the windshield screens but chose magne shades with the interior windshield magnets. More expensive but we didnt want to drill holes.
For future one can fill holes permanently with a product found at west marine....marine tex....get white andtint with epoxy pigment start with extremely small dot of pigment as it goes a long way.

What was the make of the cut in fan? We have a Precept also. Interested in your mods.
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Old 11-25-2020, 11:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDooley View Post
We did the windshield screens but chose magne shades with the interior windshield magnets. More expensive but we didnt want to drill holes.
For future one can fill holes permanently with a product found at west marine....marine tex....get white andtint with epoxy pigment start with extremely small dot of pigment as it goes a long way.

What was the make of the cut in fan? We have a Precept also. Interested in your mods.
JDooley, Make of fan: Heng's 90046-CR VORTEX II RV ROOF VENT. You can buy at a lot of places, I bought on ebay.... Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hengs-90046...53.m2749.l2648

Mark
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Old 11-26-2020, 09:24 AM   #12
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Electrical/Solar Schematic (diagram, connections, plan)

With the 3 Solar panels on the roof, I started with the attached Electric/Solar 120v/12v Schematic. I'm starting inside the coach this morning and will have lots of pics and comments soon..... but wanted to share the plan/schematic.

I've attached both the PDF and JPEG.

BTW, don't hesitate to ask for clarifications, why did I do certain things, questions and/or comments/suggestions.

Mark
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Old 11-27-2020, 06:21 AM   #13
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A/C Air handler upgrades Part 1 of 2

Have you ever been annoyed by the A/C lack of efficiency and noise? Well I just did something about it. It was totally new to me but it's a great design that was executed and manufactured well, yet so simple you'd wonder why this wasn't standard?.

It's call RV Airflow Systems... link: https://rv-airflow.myshopify.com/

I only discover it while watching some YouTube videos, in particular from Changing Lanes.... this couple have some good videos.

Anyway, I bought two AirFlow systems for my Coleman Mach 15 (front unit with Heat Pump) and Mach 3 (rear unit A/C only). The same kit does both models. It's very easy to install. However, once you take the internal covers off, you'll see how sloppy the factory install was, e.g., duct tape with gaps, holes and tears, my front unit was not centered on the roof opening and rotated a few degrees. But once the internal cover is removed and you then remove the 4 machine screw lag bolts from the internal mounting ring/hold down, you can easily center the top A/C unit (as it's just sitting on the roof with a rubber gasket and no chalk).

Once I had the covers off, I discovered a label inside each A/C unit that said you can add an auxiliary 1500w supplemental heating element that installs in the return air side of the unit. (see first pict below).... I found the aux heat elements online for about $70 each and ordered two (that will be a separate thread when I install them.... it's a simple single screw and plug in wiring.)

Now for the install of the AirFlow system.... Part 1 of 2 (I need two parts (threads) not because it's hard to install, but I have more than the 5 picture limit per thread)

As I said above, I first had to repair all the duct tape tears/gaps/holes (the second picture shows gaps/tears on both the left and right sides... which meant some of the air on the right (positive air pressure) was also going between the roof and the ceiling and the return air side on the left was sucking air (negative air pressure) from between the roof & ceiling).

Removing the internal "stuff" is easy... 4 screws remove the outside cover, 4 more screws remove the air diverter/deflector and lastly pull out the "pressure fit" rigid insulation board that "attempts" to separate the return air side from the output air side. The last two parts I just mentioned (i.e., rigid insulation board and the air diverter will not be needed or reinstalled). Note: on the removed rigid insulation board "divider"..... mine was not vertical, i.e., it was tilted and not sealing the return side from the output side. Either they weren't installed correctly or most likely, just moved/tilted from the force of the A/C being on and/or driving down the road from the movement vibrations/road bumps. Regardless, by this divider NOT sealing that means the output air, in large part, just got sucked out and went up the return air side and never going into the coach!

Once I cleaned up and installed new foil duct tape (pic 3), you then install the two kit supplied side air duct inserts (the kit only has 3 parts, the main center section that is the heart of the AirFlow system and the 2 side air duct inserts). I had to trim one end of each insert to fit the factory duct openings. The insets also have a foam weather strip on their backside that serve two purposes: 1) help seal the air and 2) creates a pressure seal between the inserts face and the center section (ridge foam) that you insert between the side duct inserts. The next to the last picture is one duct insert in the coach's air duct and the last picture shows the center section side I'm holding (the output side of air from the unit goes into the top and split out to the left/right ducts) and one of the duct insert is setting below the center section.

On to thread 2 of 2

Mark
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Old 11-27-2020, 06:41 AM   #14
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A/C Air handler upgrades Part 2 of 2

With both side air duct inserts in place, you can slight tilt the center sections and pressure fit it between the two side duct inserts (pic 1 below shows the center section top between the duct inserts. The top of the center section clearly shows the air out entry hole, the sweeping air diverter to the left and right and the foam weather strip to seal between the A/C air out port and the center section.

The second pic shows the Air Flow system installed with the hold down and lag bolts back in place.

Still concerned about leaking and noise, I then sealed with foil duct tape the center sections top and sides to the air handler.... see pic 3 & 4

Lastly, pic 5 shows I then sealed the end vents of the underside of the cover to help prevent further air escape from the coach's ducts and more noise elimination.

The end results is less noise and increased air flow by ~40% and certainly efficiency since all "conditioned" air now enters the coach where it belongs.

I hope this helps someone.

Stay tune, much more to come.

Mark
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Old 11-27-2020, 07:58 AM   #15
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Air conditioner upgrade

This is awesome, Sir. I'm tempted to get up into mine, if for no other reason than to see if there could be some efficiencies gained, even if I don't install the extra fan (or whatever you installed). Your explanation seems very complete, but I wish you also had a YouTube video. Sometimes DIY projects I read about are said to be simple when in fact they are quite daunting to the rest of us.
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Old 11-27-2020, 08:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunk7105 View Post
This is awesome, Sir. I'm tempted to get up into mine, if for no other reason than to see if there could be some efficiencies gained, even if I don't install the extra fan (or whatever you installed). Your explanation seems very complete, but I wish you also had a YouTube video. Sometimes DIY projects I read about are said to be simple when in fact they are quite daunting to the rest of us.
There are youtube video's out there already.... two I watched, one on RV AirFlow Systems: Link and from Changing Lanes:

My thread was more what I found, why I did it and what I did.

good luck.

Mark
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Old 11-27-2020, 10:23 AM   #17
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AC Ducting Improvement

Thanks again for sharing your experience, and I'm definitely going to watch the videos you posted. I appreciate it all.
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Old 11-28-2020, 03:41 PM   #18
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Auxiliary electric heat for A/C units Post 1 of 2

Well, to my surprise, the auxiliary electric heat strips I ordered this past Wed came yesterday, Friday. Since I had the Air Flow upgrade, I left the covers off until the kit came in.... because of that, it took 5 minutes to install the kit. It's that easy.... one bolt to clamp the unit in place and plug the wire pigtail into the A/C's control box.

Additional instructions can be found here: https://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/show...at-Strip/page3

Note: The Mach 15 heat pump was already wired correctly and I had nothing further to do. The Mach 3+ A/C in the bedroom (along with it associated thermostat) had one loose wire on each end that needed connected to the A/C controller and the thermostat for the "heat". Very simple connection.

The Pics below show the Mach 3+ with the yellow wire there and the "W" terminal not connected, 2nd pic shows connected to the "W" terminal, 3rd pic shows yellow connected to the "W" terminal on the thermostat and pic 4 shows the factory did not insert the freeze temp sensor in the cooling fins and pic 5 shows where I install the freeze temp sensor.

Part 2 of 2 next
Mark
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Old 11-28-2020, 03:43 PM   #19
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Auxiliary electric heat for A/C units Post 2 of 2

Here, in the pics below, you see the front and back of the aux heater, the mounted aux heater and the plug into the A/C controller. The heater mounts with a single bolt.

Mark
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Old 11-29-2020, 06:46 AM   #20
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Some misc stuff

Today, I'll finish up my solar "system" and that will be a long multi-post sub-thread...

But some misc stuff here:
1: I added RV Air filter AC125G (from amazon) to lay outside the screen filter that came with the A/C units (pic 1)
2: I mounted the TST tire pressure main unit to the dash with velcro (pic 2)
3: I added a piano hinge to each dinette seat storage lid (pic 3)
4: Our washer/dryer combo unit came in and with the help of my neighbors Shea and Brad (and of course my wife), we got it in the coach. I removed the shelves and brackets and it fit great in the cabinet. (pic 4) (btw, the top of the washer will be good storage for extra sheets and towels)
5: I used 2 pair of washer hot/cold ss braided water hoses with male couplers to join them.... why you ask?.... because this way is will be very easy to "winterize" by separating the hoses at the male coupler to drain the water from them and not having to disconnect the hoses from the on/off valves or the back of the washer. (pic 5)

So, much more to come and can't wait to "wrap-up" the whole Solar System today!!

thx Mark
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