Mark's Upgrades to a 2021 Precept 34G

[Jmurray65]

What did you put down over the wires and waterlines in that space?

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Jmurray65

What did you put down over the wires and waterlines in that space?

Jmurray... I'm not sure what you're referring to, i.e., put down over the wires and waterlines... what space? Can you go back to the post and hit quote button to allow me to see what you're referring to so I can answer your question.

thx Mark

[mkassab]

Two items today.... Front OEM shocks replaced with Koni's and I installed heat shield insulation on Generator gas line and spark plug wires.

Pic 1 shows the stock OEM shock I just removed and the new Koni about to be installed. This is a very easy job. You just need 1 1/8" socket and wrench. Use front jack stabilizers with jack stands (for safety) to raise front tires off the ground.

Pic 2 Koni installed on front right. you can easily see the ease of installation and access to bolts/nuts.

Pic 3 shows the heat shied insulation wrap around the inside of the generator's gas line. There has been several issues with generators stopping when hot.... one of the issues was vapor lock and the fix was wrapping insulation around the gas line.... so this was just preventative for me. I also wrapped the line outside of the generator where is exits its enclosure to just past the generator exhaust.

Pic 4 shows I wrapped the front two spark plugs on both the left and right sides with the left over heat shield wrap. Again, this is just preventative since heat has been an issue for the spark plug wires and it seems the heat mostly affects the front plug wires. I do have the new replacement spark plug wires installed as I previously posted in this thread. I used ss zip ties in addition to the Velcro on the wrap. My goal was to shield between the exhaust manifold and the plug and not totally wrap the plug.... this way heat can still vent up

Mark

[Jopopsy]

Can you post the links to the shocks and heat wrap you used for these installs Mark?

Also, did you really feel the shocks were necessary after adding the Sumos to the front?

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Jopopsy

Can you post the links to the shocks and heat wrap you used for these installs Mark?

Also, did you really feel the shocks were necessary after adding the Sumos to the front?

heat wrap https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ss zip ties https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best price on Koni shocks UltraRV https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/Koni...scription=true

Koni shocks are more shock reducing/firmer than the OEM Ford Shock. The Sumo's are not shocks... they are bumpers between the leaf springs and the frame. The Sumo's are way better than the hard yellow plastic Ford used. But you can't compare a Shock (Koni in this case) with Bumpers (Sumo in this case)... i.e., apples and oranges..... that's why Ford, GM, etc uses shocks and bumpers just like any car or truck uses today. A "Bumper" is the last shock absorption before the suspension bottoms out.

At the end of the day.... my suspension changes are just me looking for the best I can get regarding ride, feel, control, and suspension life.

Mark

[Parrott]

I have to say if you ever sell this, someone will get the best upgraded Jayco around!

[mkassab]

All those know following this thread, in a earlier post, I bought a high end, HD Demco Kar Kaddy SS Tow Dolly.

The car we intended to tow (MiniCooperS) we're changing and the new car can't be Dolly towed (AWD car).

So, I decided to go 4 wheel/tire down towing using my Ford F-150 and decided on the NSA Tow Bar's complete 12000lb kit Pic below
https://nsatowbars.com/products/hercules-tow-bar

I never used the Tow Dolly.... so it's waiting for a new owner. I put an ad in Craigslist to start and if you know anyone in the market for a New, never used Tow Dolly let me know (I'm located in Brevard, NC (western NC 30 min's south of Ashville)

Here's my ad if anyone interested to make an offer pls PM me (further price reduction for Jayco Forum member and I'd be willing to meet part way to shorten trip for pickup or the trailer could be carrier shipped if not too far away). Link: https://asheville.craigslist.org/tro...343212278.html

I'll document the tow bar kit installation later.

Mark

[American X]

Originally Posted by Jopopsy

If you have the 7.3L F53, Ford made improvements to the suspension components; from what I can gather most believe it to be thicker sway bars. If you have the V10 F53, upgraded sway bars may prove beneficial however the jury is still out on the newer chassis.

I have a 2021 Jayco Alante on the 7.3L V8 F53 chassis. The chassis was built in Sept of 2020. I can first hand tell you it is still pretty bad. Bumps will send you flying into space. Passing trucks will blow you into the ditch if you are not ready for it. You really cannot drive this thing without using 2 hands. I am not brave enough to let go of the wheel to see what it does. My rear sway bar fell off on the very first trip I took as well lol. 1 mount and 2 bushings are no where to be found. The other mount was hanging on by 2 threads by the 1 bolt still there getting ready to fall off when I saw it.

I fully intend on doing some of the suspension upgrades Mark did. Once I get my spark plug wire issue delt with by Ford and my lack of heat shield issue around the engine, suspension upgrades are #3 on my to-do list

[Jopopsy]

The rough ride you're describing has nothing to do with the sway bars; its going to ride rough even w/ the improvements Mark made. Its just the coach should lean less when going around turns now w/ the new stock FOMOCO bars; assuming they're actually connected ! And the push on the road by passing trucks (or wind) can be mitigated to a degree w/ the track bar he mentions, but you're still essentially a massive windsail barreling down the road.

[American X]

Originally Posted by mkassab

All those know following this thread, in a earlier post, I bought a high end, HD Demco Kar Kaddy SS Tow Dolly.

The car we intended to tow (MiniCooperS) we're changing and the new car can't be Dolly towed (AWD car).

So, I decided to go 4 wheel/tire down towing using my Ford F-150 and decided on the NSA Tow Bar's complete 12000lb kit Pic below
https://nsatowbars.com/products/hercules-tow-bar

I never used the Tow Dolly.... so it's waiting for a new owner. I put an ad in Craigslist to start and if you know anyone in the market for a New, never used Tow Dolly let me know (I'm located in Brevard, NC (western NC 30 min's south of Ashville)

Here's my ad if anyone interested to make an offer pls PM me (further price reduction for Jayco Forum member and I'd be willing to meet part way to shorten trip for pickup or the trailer could be carrier shipped if not too far away). Link: https://asheville.craigslist.org/tro...343212278.html

I'll document the tow bar kit installation later.

Mark

I put a base plate kit on my 2016 Dodge Dart SXT a few weeks ago and took it for a test run last week. Was fantastic. I went with Roadmaster simply because the lead time from Blue OX was insane on my car. Only advice I can give you since you know FAR more about RV'n then I do, I went with the Roadmaster invisibrake 8700 for my braking system. Man, whoever invented that needs a few free rounds at the bar. All you have to do is plug your toad in and go when you want to flat tow. The pressure on it is adjustable as well. It is kinda a pain to install, but you seem quite the handy man. If you install your diode kit and your brake system at the same time, it makes it easier to knock it out since they tie into each other.

One thing I will say is I decided to deviate from the invisibrake wiring diagram since I do not want to run my RV with my headlights on all the time to 12V trickle charge my car battery. I used the 12V acc wire off the 7pin since I do not need it for anything else. Worked great! (the invisabrake powers the pump using your car battery, but it is set up to re-trickle charge it so its no big deal)

[American X]

Originally Posted by Jopopsy

The rough ride you're describing has nothing to do with the sway bars; its going to ride rough even w/ the improvements Mark made. Its just the coach should lean less when going around turns now w/ the new stock FOMOCO bars; assuming they're actually connected ! And the push on the road by passing trucks (or wind) can be mitigated to a degree w/ the track bar he mentions, but you're still essentially a massive windsail barreling down the road.

I am willing to pay for any bit of improvement. My wife is scared to death of driving this thing. I may never get it perfect, but drive-able for her is the goal. I have more problems then just the couple I listed to be funny. This thing leans hard to the passenger side. The power step drags on the ground when the RV is not sitting completely flat. It is quite noticeable in turns.

[Parrott]

I bought my Precept 31 UL used 2016. The PO installed an extra leaf spring and an additional sway bar on the rear. It drives perfect without a steering stabilizer. He had the work done at a big truck garage.

[Jopopsy]

Originally Posted by American X

This thing leans hard to the passenger side. The power step drags on the ground when the RV is not sitting completely flat. It is quite noticeable in turns.

It sounds pretty terrible.

[MRichaud]

Originally Posted by American X

I put a base plate kit on my 2016 Dodge Dart SXT a few weeks ago and took it for a test run last week. Was fantastic. I went with Roadmaster simply because the lead time from Blue OX was insane on my car. Only advice I can give you since you know FAR more about RV'n then I do, I went with the Roadmaster invisibrake 8700 for my braking system. Man, whoever invented that needs a few free rounds at the bar. All you have to do is plug your toad in and go when you want to flat tow. The pressure on it is adjustable as well. It is kinda a pain to install, but you seem quite the handy man. If you install your diode kit and your brake system at the same time, it makes it easier to knock it out since they tie into each other.

One thing I will say is I decided to deviate from the invisibrake wiring diagram since I do not want to run my RV with my headlights on all the time to 12V trickle charge my car battery. I used the 12V acc wire off the 7pin since I do not need it for anything else. Worked great! (the invisabrake powers the pump using your car battery, but it is set up to re-trickle charge it so its no big deal)

+1 for the Invisibrake - just a brilliant concept! Ours is wired so that just the parking lights are needed, and the extra illumination can't hurt - at least in my mind. Love the built-in adjustment feature.

[American X]

Originally Posted by MRichaud

+1 for the Invisibrake - just a brilliant concept! Ours is wired so that just the parking lights are needed, and the extra illumination can't hurt - at least in my mind. Love the built-in adjustment feature.

I wired mine off the separate 12V ACC really only because I do not want the LED race track lighting on the back of my car on all the time and burn it out. I wired my diode kit up so the entire race track light bar turns on when I hit the pimp lights on the RV. Gotta love Dodge products! I also did it that way in case I forget to turn my lights on and kill my car battery. That sounds like something I would do.

[nhake01]

The Invisibrake system is absolutely the best. Love the ease of use and Peace of Mind it gives me and the DW.

[Wscottman]

Did you have the proper depth inside the cavity. Mine is 3/4 shallow and I am considering a modification to RV Airflow center insert. Looks like a good theory. 2009 28 QB Greyhawk

[2021Emblem36U]

One thing about your rough ride. The Alante has 19.5" tires compared to 22.5" on the Precept. Those bigger tires make a huge difference! I had a 2018 Coachmen Pursuit Precision with the 19.5" tires and I now have a 2021 Entegra Emblem (basically the same as the Jayco Precept) with the 22.5" and there's a difference in ride quality. On my old rig I installed an extra rear anti-sway bar, Sumo Springs all around, and a steering stabilizer. Big improvement in handling, but the ride quality still sucked because of the smaller tires.

Originally Posted by American X

I have a 2021 Jayco Alante on the 7.3L V8 F53 chassis. The chassis was built in Sept of 2020. I can first hand tell you it is still pretty bad. Bumps will send you flying into space. Passing trucks will blow you into the ditch if you are not ready for it. You really cannot drive this thing without using 2 hands. I am not brave enough to let go of the wheel to see what it does. My rear sway bar fell off on the very first trip I took as well lol. 1 mount and 2 bushings are no where to be found. The other mount was hanging on by 2 threads by the 1 bolt still there getting ready to fall off when I saw it.

I fully intend on doing some of the suspension upgrades Mark did. Once I get my spark plug wire issue delt with by Ford and my lack of heat shield issue around the engine, suspension upgrades are #3 on my to-do list

[GRZLY 03]

Mark, sort of an emergency! Have to move RV. Main awning is half way out and will not retract. Both awning switches are dead, no power. Awning fuse is good. All other DC is good. Any ideas for quick fix?

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by GRZLY 03

Mark, sort of an emergency! Have to move RV. Main awning is half way out and will not retract. Both awning switches are dead, no power. Awning fuse is good. All other DC is good. Any ideas for quick fix?

Three thoughts come to mind:

1. can you check to see if you have power to the awning wire at the awing motor while some holds in the awning switch. If you have power, it must be the motor or connection to the motor.
2. pull the panel/awing switch out.... does the switch have power in? if yes, does the switch have power out when switch is pushed? Check both awing in and out
3. if no power to the switch, it must be an issue with one of the following:
a. bad ground
b. bad fuse/circuit breaker
c. bad ground or power wire from panel to switch
d. does the fuse/circuit break have power in?

good luck

Mark