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Old 06-16-2018, 01:01 PM   #11
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Hi KH,
We bought the same unit as you, 2018 31P, and have had none of the issues you unfortunately have encountered. We are also newly retired and also new to RVing, and I have to say our “ride”, seems fine. You have made me a bit concerned though...I’ll be checking my exhaust etc.
I love this forum and really appreciate the input by all. I have learned alot being new to the group and RVing. So far have enjoyed our experience.
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Old 06-19-2018, 04:30 PM   #12
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I would encourage everyone who is having issues to write the Attorney General and the Federal Trade commission. Then maybe we could get some of these issues od poor design fixed
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Old 07-10-2018, 08:33 PM   #13
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Well the local dealer installed a heat shield and a new metal floor in the affected storage cabinet....we will see. The frame issue.....Ēitís Fordís problem....Ēitís Jayco,s problemĒ. ď Jaayco put a house on the F53 Frame...warranty voidĒ Do you see the pass the buck? I finally found a great RV Repair Shop....
Redlands Truck and RV....WOW. They really know thier stuff. They listened to my problems and took care of the rear axle problem. Jayco refuses to help with the bill in any way. I will take a few trips in the coach and sell it.... not a Jayco fan.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:21 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by KHabie View Post
The frame issue.....”it’s Ford’s problem....”it’s Jayco,s problem”. “ Jaayco put a house on the F53 Frame...warranty void” Do you see the pass the buck?
FORD sells the F-53 to all RV manuf as an "incomplete chassis" with the intent that something will be built on it. Same applies to the E-350/450 and the SENECA chassis from Freightliner. Your FORD dealer is blowing smoke, it does not void the warranty. FORD actually has a complete set of "up-fitter" specs that it provides JAYCO, FOREST RIVER and the others to make the modifications. If that was the case no motorhome, school bus etc, sold would have any kind of chassis warranty. You need to find a FORD/STERLING truck shop.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:59 AM   #15
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The problem with the chassis is the wheelbase. Any wheelbase class A under 200" is not ever going to handle well and the ride will be very harsh.

228" wheelbase for a Class A should be minimum for proper ride and handling. 208" is acceptable but I personally would not go below 228" in a class A.

I have had short and long gas and diesel and this applies to them all.

The wheelbase on your 31P is 190" which is not enough. There is a 55% rule that says your wheelbase should be a minimum of 55% of the length of the coach. Your overall length is actually 31.5' so the minimum wheelbase should be 208" and your way under that.

This is one of the reasons we moved back to a class C motorhome. We also at this stage of our lives wanted to stay around 30' overall length. Very difficult if not impossible to find with the longer wheelbases that meet the 55%.

Our class C wheelbase is 223" which is over the 55%. Our overall length is 32.5' and 55% would be 215" so we are over that.

This is not a Jayco problem...it is a industry across the board problem. I speak to you from many years of ownership experience here.
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Old 07-11-2018, 04:27 PM   #16
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I hate to show you this because you already purchased but I think you need to understand what is the cause of your handling problems. Read this...it's not my words but I fully agree with his math and explanation.

Wheelbase-to-Length Ratio for Motor homes:

Most RVers have never heard the term (or didn't until the RV Consumer Group began concentrating on the subject). The RV Consumer Group, referred to frequently by anybody who knows what they're doing, originated this concept. It refers to one of the most critical factors to be considered in selecting a motor home.

I'll give you the basics. Say the overall length of the MH is 36 feet. That's 432". Say the wheel base is 228". The ratio is calculated as 228 � 432 = .528 = 52.8% (call it 53%).

Anything under 50% is unsafe for highway travel.

50 to 53% is a bit dicey (will wear out the driver causing fatigue and stress).

Only ratios of 54% or more are considered safe.

Lower ratios will wear out your suspension as well as being unsafe.
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:36 PM   #17
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Just want to say that my heart go's out to you. I'm disabled but waiting for my wife to retire in a couple of years to make the plunge to buy.
I am sold on Class C's as it will be just my wife, golden retriever and myself.

I can only inmagine the heart break and frustration you must be having. If we have similar bad luck I won't be able to look my wife in the face.
I was 17 years law enforcement, my Daughter In law is a Lawyer...Prosecutor (one of the good Attorneys) She worked in the State's Supreme Court for a couple of years. You are on the right track. Get hold of your Attorney Generals Office. Also your State Rep. and Senator. Better Business Bureau. Who ever the Ford Dealer was that told you that Ford wouldn't stand behind the steer box needs to be reminded of the Lemon Law. It's a safety issue.
I wish you the best and please keep us informed.
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Old 07-12-2018, 03:46 PM   #18
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The problem with the chassis is the wheelbase. Any wheelbase class A under 200" is not ever going to handle well and the ride will be very harsh.

228" wheelbase for a Class A should be minimum for proper ride and handling. 208" is acceptable but I personally would not go below 228" in a class A.

I have had short and long gas and diesel and this applies to them all.

The wheelbase on your 31P is 190" which is not enough. There is a 55% rule that says your wheelbase should be a minimum of 55% of the length of the coach. Your overall length is actually 31.5' so the minimum wheelbase should be 208" and your way under that.

This is one of the reasons we moved back to a class C motorhome. We also at this stage of our lives wanted to stay around 30' overall length. Very difficult if not impossible to find with the longer wheelbases that meet the 55%.

Our class C wheelbase is 223" which is over the 55%. Our overall length is 32.5' and 55% would be 215" so we are over that.

This is not a Jayco problem...it is a industry across the board problem. I speak to you from many years of ownership experience here.
This is true, but there are things you can do, My Alante 26AY has a short wheelbase, and handled like crap when I got it, but I expected that. We settled on the 26AY as it is actually 27'9", and our Rv area will take up to 30', plus we loved the large tanks, and floor plan. I added a rear Trak Bar, safety steer, air suspension, rear sumosprings, and Koni shocks, set my tire pressure at 85, and the RV now handles just fine, no wandering, sway, or harsh ride. Was it expensive, you bet, but worth it as we will keep it for many years to come, and what's another $10K after spending so much to start with. I am now happy with the coach...... finally!
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Old 07-12-2018, 06:57 PM   #19
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We have the Alante 31P also. I have done the CHF and it improved the handling quite a bit. My next thing will be a rear track bar, found out with a strong side wind and big rigs passing I get pushed around a bit. The other things I have done to improve handling is watch my tire pressures and keep any heavy things out of the rear storage and move them to toward the front compartments. This helps to balance the short wheelbase. The large area behind the rear wheels catches the wind so hopefully the rear trackbar will help. With no wind the RV goes straight and doesnít jump lanes. Big rigs donít push me around as much since the CHF was done. It rides better with 87# in the front tires 91# is noticeabley harder riding.
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Old 07-12-2018, 07:37 PM   #20
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We have the Alante 31P also. I have done the CHF and it improved the handling quite a bit. My next thing will be a rear track bar, found out with a strong side wind and big rigs passing I get pushed around a bit. The other things I have done to improve handling is watch my tire pressures and keep any heavy things out of the rear storage and move them to toward the front compartments. This helps to balance the short wheelbase. The large area behind the rear wheels catches the wind so hopefully the rear trackbar will help. With no wind the RV goes straight and doesnít jump lanes. Big rigs donít push me around as much since the CHF was done. It rides better with 87# in the front tires 91# is noticeabley harder riding.
The rear Trak Bar will help a lot with any tendency to 'wander' due to truck ruts or side wind gusts. Those large leaf springs on the rear allow the axle to shift laterally causing the 'tail wagging the dog' action, the Trak Bar locks the rear differential to the frame allowing only vertical movement. #85 psi seems to work best for my smaller 26AY, tried 90# and it was to hard. The new springs that came with the air suspension really made a huge improvement in the harshness of the front end to bridge transitions and pot holes, really smoothed out the ride. I can now drive one handed and relax without arriving at the camp site with sore neck and shoulder muscles from fighting the wheel for hours. The addition of lots of sound proofing in the dog house and under the wheel wells as well as under the dash has really quieted the cabin down. to where we can actually talk or hear the radio.
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