I'm finally getting around to posting how I fixed this. I looked and looked for the video wire that runs from the back cap up to the radio in the dash. It must be buried somewhere in a wire bundle or the wall of the coach. I wasn't able to find it and I spent 2 days looking.
The wire comes down from the camera behind the back cap and out through expanding foam between the frame and the cap. Then, for fun, it goes right back up into the expanding foam never to be found again. About 2 feet of the is wire hang down for you to access....and cut for a splice.
I went to home depot determined to have my rear view camera for the trip home from Colorado.
I bought 60 feet of bulk 14 gauge twisted wire (3 wires - Green, white, and black). I had 10 feet left over when it was all said and done. I cut and delicately striped the camera wire at the back of the bus. You'll have a 50/50 shot of getting the wire that goes to the camera. I guessed wrong initially and had to wire to the other end (I thought the wire at the center would be the one from the camera because, well, logic. Wrong as usual).
That original camera wire contains black, red, white, and shielded grey wire. Its probably 22 gauge or less. Its really delicate so strip it cautiously (which is probably why it failed somewhere in the coach).
I used a crimper and red butt connectors (they technically aren't for 14 guage, but I was able to get them in). Crimped the hell out them to ensure that they wouldn't come lose. Then electrical taped them like a mad man because I didn't have heat shrink.
(Red Butt connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/AIRIC-100pcs-...8186379&sr=8-3)
On the original video wire:
red is camera voltage
white is audio (which we don't need)
black is ground
shielded grey is the video (Pull back all of the shielding and cut it off so it doesn't short into your butt connector)
I spliced the new wire in as follows:
Green to Red (I love Christmas)
White to grey (it looked similar)
Black to Black
Cut and taped off the original wire white for the audio
I then, with the help of my 5 year old, routed the new 14 guage wire bundle down the chassis. Zip tying as I went to avoid any tension in the wire. I was also being careful of other wires, exhaust or heat sources, and pinch points. This was the hardest part and just took patience.
I found a gasket running into the cabin under the driver seat and gently pushed the new wire into the cabin. Then I pulled it to the center dash, cut the old wire end connector into the controller, and spliced as before.
Plugged it in and had my camera back. The signal actually seemed to look better too. It may have been my excitement to have the rear view back.
You might ask about not having shielded cable. Well it didn't matter in this application. The twisted wire helps eliminate the voltage interference from the camera power. Although that is even overkill as it is such low power source. I also didn't route it next to anything high voltage.. Honestly, shielded video is kind of a hold over from the 80s. There are definitely times it is needed, but in most applications it just isn't necessary. I had zero noise for the full trip from Colorado to Indiana.
Any future problems will be very easy to visually inspect due to the chassis routing, but I honestly think the 14 gauge will last the life of the coach. I retained all of the original connectors. If I have to replace the controller or the camera down the line it will be plug and play.
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