remove dashboard on 2018 Alante 26x

[Rico 1967]

Wondering if anyone has removed the dashboard. Have a lot of rattles under there and would like to try and reduce/eliminate them. Looks like there are about 18 screws that are easy to get to. Thanks

[cfisher523]

I've had the dash out of my 2018 Alante 31R. It's not overly difficult, but it is more than a few screws. From memory.... First step is to remove all the trim work, to include the gauge cluster, the center radio/HVAC controls etc. Once all of that is out you'll need to remove all the visible screws in the dash and the trim caps at the base of the A-pillars. Finally, looking through the hole where the radio was and looking up from underneath the passengers side of the dashboard you will see numerous nut/bolt sets. The nuts require a 7/16" wrench. Now you're ready to pull up the dash. Do it slowly because the duct work likes to stick to it.

All that being said, you might not have to remove the whole thing to address the squeaks and rattles. I found several of the nuts (listed above) missing. Replacing them helped a lot. The next issue I found was that the wooden "T" supports under the dash were not making good contact with the dash and they were moving against the dash and making noise. I took small pieces of pool noodle and slid them over the "T"s to fill the gap and stiffen up the whole thing.

Hope all this helps...

[HJ Rosch]

I removed the dash this winter from my 2018 31V with similar issues. You need to be a bit of a contortionist to access some of the screws and will need several different bits, extensions, etc. Square bits, Phillips bits, hex sockets. Keep track of where they all go as they are all different lengths and colors. I took mine apart specifically to insulate the doghouse for sound and heat, I would strongly suggest doing the same as it makes a big difference. The most difficult part of doing the insulation is getting the dash apart then it is easy to remove the doghouse.

[Rico 1967]

Originally Posted by cfisher523

I've had the dash out of my 2018 Alante 31R. It's not overly difficult, but it is more than a few screws. From memory.... First step is to remove all the trim work, to include the gauge cluster, the center radio/HVAC controls etc. Once all of that is out you'll need to remove all the visible screws in the dash and the trim caps at the base of the A-pillars. Finally, looking through the hole where the radio was and looking up from underneath the passengers side of the dashboard you will see numerous nut/bolt sets. The nuts require a 7/16" wrench. Now you're ready to pull up the dash. Do it slowly because the duct work likes to stick to it.

All that being said, you might not have to remove the whole thing to address the squeaks and rattles. I found several of the nuts (listed above) missing. Replacing them helped a lot. The next issue I found was that the wooden "T" supports under the dash were not making good contact with the dash and they were moving against the dash and making noise. I took small pieces of pool noodle and slid them over the "T"s to fill the gap and stiffen up the whole thing.

Hope all this helps...

Thanks for the reply and picture. How did you get the instrument panel off? I removed the two screws on either side but it wouldn't budge.

[Balibe]

@Norine

I also have a 2018 26x with the same bad dash vibration rattle issue. I opened the radio/heater control section and believe I found my issue. My intent was to use the pool noodles to fix as cfisher523 states but found both my supports collapsed.

To check this is just 4 screws, the decorative plastic cover for the radio/heater controls had connections long enough to move it to the side and see inside the dash with disconnecting anything.

There are two plywood supports screwed to the engine cover that support the top on my 26x. You can see one of these wood supports in the picture cfisher523 uploaded, I identified his in yellow and attached in the first picture. My 26x had two, it supports my dash top in two place identified in red.

Both of mine were not supporting the dash top cap. As you can see in the second picture, my left one is totally collapsed. The right one was not as bad but was no longer supporting. The support is identified in yellow. Where it should be supporting is identified in red. This did not come loose after the fact as the wiring is on top of the support. Clearly an issue from the factory. The supports also smashed a few of the vent ducts.

The third picture is of the support I pulled out. It is a piece of plywood with 1/2"x1/2" wood secured at the top & bottom with staples. The bottom 1/2'x1/2" wood is screwed into the wood engine cover, so not in the picture as it was not removed. The top just does not secure to the dash top, just rests against it. See attached picture #3. This is the support removed.

Since they are just connected to the lower 1/2"x1/2" with staples, I just loosened pulled the support out. I stapled some thin felt to the top part where it rests against the top dash cap (shown in yellow). Mine were tight to the dash cap, the pool noodle would of been to thick. Then secured the bottom 1/2"x1/2" with 3 wood screws (shown in red). You can see the original staple holes for the bottom 1/2"x1/2".

It was tight working thru the radio/heater access. I was able to move the wiring & heater hoses out the way and secure the supports in place with screws.

I just fixed both the supports last weekend, but I haven't had a chance to do a test drive yet. The top dash cover appears to have a lot less vibration now. I could see the vibration while pushing up/down on the dash cap before hand. After I fixed the support, it does vibrate some but it is a heck of a lot less.


Hope this helps …… if yours are collapsed as mine were, let me know. I can explain in further detail how I fixed them.


.

[cfisher523]

There is double sided tape. A little heat and a little patience and it comes off.

[Float 2017]

how did you get the instrument cover off?

[hawkster]

My dash rattles were the wood supports mentioned above, accessible thru the radio compartment. No dash or instrument removal required. There are two board assemblies. I siliconed all places front and rear where boards joined. At bottom I siliconed to the floor and screwed also. On top I used industrial strength velco to attach support to bottom of dash and then siliconed edges front and rear. Good for two years now. I did notice that a couple of the screws were broken at the front of the dash near windshield. I replaced them with screws from home Depot.

[Pipebndr]

Thank you, great information