Replacing Alante Accent LEDs

[klspahr]

The original Accent LED strings on the front end were failing, probably because they were made for dry locations only. I also disliked the color. I wanted something that was closer to the color of the headlights. I am installing LED strips that have adjustable color. These strips are rated as waterproof too. The white color of the strips look a lot better than the original black strips.

[Gsfuri]

Love it!

[bingwahyhoo]

Very cool

[Graunke]

Do you have a link to the strips you purchased? I've considered adding a few more on the undercarriage or under the dash for incandescent lighting options.

[klspahr]

Try this link:

https://www.amazon.com/Usieka-Upgrad.../dp/B07DN6NWZ8

[Rice1951]

Just curious. Do you cut these light strips to length? In reading the notes from your link the manufacturer doesn’t recommend cutting them. How could you make them fit without cutting them or do you order them to the length you need?

[Graunke]

The light strips posted appear to run on 110V, I don't think that is the same kit.

[JesseS]

Originally Posted by klspahr

Try this link:

https://www.amazon.com/Usieka-Upgrad.../dp/B07DN6NWZ8

I see you cut these on the RGB marks, how far apart? looks like you got them to fit the recessed channels OK. Did you have to purchase separate kits for each segment to get the power feeds. Mine are going out also because they are not waterproof. Just no understanding Jayco, why on earth would you put non-waterproof LED on the FRONT of a MH <smh>

[JesseS]

Originally Posted by Rice1951

Just curious. Do you cut these light strips to length? In reading the notes from your link the manufacturer doesn’t recommend cutting them. How could you make them fit without cutting them or do you order them to the length you need?

Looks like they have cut marks <rgb> every 2". Just be sure to apply some silicone to the cut end to keep the waterproofing.

[JesseS]

Originally Posted by Graunke

The light strips posted appear to run on 110V, I don't think that is the same kit.

The lights themselves are 12VDC, but come with w 110VAC 5A power block, which you wouldn't need, would need to cut off the power feed to wire to the coach power.

[klspahr]

Yes I cut them to length. I soldered new wire leads to the LED strips (not too bad if you prep the strip properly and know how to solder delicate items). All the cut ends and new soldered joints were protected with mastic heat shrink. That’s heat shrink tube with a heat activated glue inside the tube, when it cools the joint is waterproof and very solid. Then I made a new wiring harness (these use four wires instead of two). I tested everything to make sure it worked, and installed them.

As for the 120 volt issue, that’s for the transformer, the LED strips are 12vdc. I cut off the connector and wire lead from the transformer and used it to get 12vdc from the existing switch on the dashboard to the LED controller. I also have a small section of LED strip under the dash so I know what the outside LED strips are doing. Only one 16’ roll was needed for the front. I also used clear caulk above and below the strps outside and used the colored caulk to close up the holes through the fiberglass. (NOT silicone caulk of course.)

I’m thinking of using these inside so I can adjust the color and brightness in each room. My plan is to add crown molding and incorporate the strips between the ceiling and the molding so the LEDs will provide indirect lighting. This will be a little more involved than the front.

[Graunke]

I understand now, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for clarifying. I've wanted to an incandescent light along the cabinets.

I am excited to hear about your project.

[Rice1951]

Thank you for all the input, and to klspahr and JesseS for clarifying the details. My coach is currently in storage for the winter but I will be looking at a similar project come Spring.