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Old 01-31-2023, 03:13 AM   #21
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Good. The 2” front/rear sway bars are good, if they also made the rear trac bar & front Sumos standard, they’d have something.

Yes, I agree I have seen where Tiffan install them on the frame before they put the body on, I'm not sure if they do them all or if someone order it from the factory like that. Can't wait to get our back for the dealer so I can go to work installing the front and the rear.
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Old 01-31-2023, 07:23 AM   #22
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for Big 1...
1) used Dewalt brand drill bits from HD ( home depot not harley davidson), watched "Project Farm" as he does great comparison/testing of various DIY products/tools on you tube...Dewalt brand bits did great...only used 1 bit for all holes ( both pilot and final sizes) - the chips come off small like machining cast iron, not long and stringy -- easy to vacuum up...the frame material is soft IMO.
2) getting the balanced checked on the rear wheels ( wanted to look at the brakes too while I was in there) - plan is to purchase a wheel lug torque wrench from HF ( Harbor Freight) they have one for about $60 - only has 6 preset torque values and a goose neck "head" made by "Quinn" - need 150 ft/lbs- wrench has 140 then jumps to 160 - probably go with 160.
3) have not had it out on the road ( it snowed here yesterday!) - main reason for upgrades is wind "control" - out here in Nevada it's always windy - need to make it easy to drive for wifey if I need a break...probably won't be out on the road until after I finish my next upgrade ( front sumos and radius rods) - glad you liked the pix....PLEASE plan your drilling session due to all the stuff on the inside of the frame rails...hth
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Old 01-31-2023, 08:31 PM   #23
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for Big 1...
1) used Dewalt brand drill bits from HD ( home depot not harley davidson), watched "Project Farm" as he does great comparison/testing of various DIY products/tools on you tube...Dewalt brand bits did great...only used 1 bit for all holes ( both pilot and final sizes) - the chips come off small like machining cast iron, not long and stringy -- easy to vacuum up...the frame material is soft IMO.
2) getting the balanced checked on the rear wheels ( wanted to look at the brakes too while I was in there) - plan is to purchase a wheel lug torque wrench from HF ( Harbor Freight) they have one for about $60 - only has 6 preset torque values and a goose neck "head" made by "Quinn" - need 150 ft/lbs- wrench has 140 then jumps to 160 - probably go with 160.
3) have not had it out on the road ( it snowed here yesterday!) - main reason for upgrades is wind "control" - out here in Nevada it's always windy - need to make it easy to drive for wifey if I need a break...probably won't be out on the road until after I finish my next upgrade ( front sumos and radius rods) - glad you liked the pix....PLEASE plan your drilling session due to all the stuff on the inside of the frame rails...hth


Okay, I have everything I need I will have to look at HF to see if they have a torque wrench that go to what my wheel should be. The last time I checked the torque for the rear wheel is torque at 450 ft lbs, but if I can get in between the wheels and the frame with my 90% motor I will be able to install them without taken the wheels off.

The wife and I travel to Las Vegas all the time in our rv, we haven't did it with our new motorhome yet, I'm retired military so we stay at Nellis AFB. The radius rod is on my list but I am having back surgery this week and the doctor said that it will be a year before I will heal completely so I have to just play it by ear and see. Thank you again for the pics I needed to see them so I can see what I will be getting into.
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Old 02-01-2023, 11:36 AM   #24
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Yes you must have 22.5" diameter wheels....(lug nut torque: 19.5" wheels = 150 ft lbs, 22.5" wheels = 450 ft lbs) ...suggestion ( maybe not a good one with your bad back!) leaving the wheels on... is to lift the coach up as high as you can WITHOUT lifting the wheels off the ground....I would still use some jack stands to support the frame/coach from a safety standpoint. Then try and bend over the wheels to start your layout and drilling process (not fun). Back in the day I have used torque multipliers before in the diesel engine arena, but it usually required two people to make it to the required torque (one on the torque wrench and one on the multiplier) ...only suggestion I can make is to find a truck repair shop and see if they have a torque wrench that you could borrow/rent...it would have to be a very long wrench to give you the needed leverage for that torque. ( or borrow a torque multiplier and "wedge" it against the ground while you tighten the lug nut with a torque wrench - chk out Amazon for a multiplier ( https://a.co/d/0B32LDI)
Vegas is lot like Death Valley...visit after Halloween or before Easter!...or its too hot!
hope this helps... good luck with the surgery
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Old 02-01-2023, 01:49 PM   #25
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Can't wait to get our back for the dealer so I can go to work installing the front and the rear.
Hey Big1,
What's going on with your 36C? I hope it's nothing serious.
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Old 02-01-2023, 06:23 PM   #26
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Hey Big1,
What's going on with your 36C? I hope it's nothing serious.
Oh just a few things, I had a water leak which they took care of and I had two shades that came down when we were driving, one of my compartment lock broke, on the driver side I was getting a loud howling noise. On the passenger side the top of the arm rest just came apart.

We couldn't also get no hot water in the rear bathroom the shower part. In the kitchen down below that wooden grill was also broke, and maybe a few other small things nothing too bad. Most of it is done it just that they had to get the okay from Jayco to move on with some of the fixes.
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Old 02-01-2023, 06:30 PM   #27
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Yes you must have 22.5" diameter wheels....(lug nut torque: 19.5" wheels = 150 ft lbs, 22.5" wheels = 450 ft lbs) ...suggestion ( maybe not a good one with your bad back!) leaving the wheels on... is to lift the coach up as high as you can WITHOUT lifting the wheels off the ground....I would still use some jack stands to support the frame/coach from a safety standpoint. Then try and bend over the wheels to start your layout and drilling process (not fun). Back in the day I have used torque multipliers before in the diesel engine arena, but it usually required two people to make it to the required torque (one on the torque wrench and one on the multiplier) ...only suggestion I can make is to find a truck repair shop and see if they have a torque wrench that you could borrow/rent...it would have to be a very long wrench to give you the needed leverage for that torque. ( or borrow a torque multiplier and "wedge" it against the ground while you tighten the lug nut with a torque wrench - chk out Amazon for a multiplier ( https://a.co/d/0B32LDI)
Vegas is lot like Death Valley...visit after Halloween or before Easter!...or its too hot!
hope this helps... good luck with the surgery

Awesome, thank you sir, maybe I might have to go to plan B and plan B is to remove the factory bump stop and just install some Timbren for the rear with the Timbren theirs no drilling I just remove the factory bump stop and install the Timbren. I agree that this will be a big job for me since I will be going tomorrow morning at 5:00 AM to get my back surgery done.

It might not be a good idea to go at it right now anyway because of my back I think that I will look into more with the Timbren in the rear and yes my rear wheel is 22.5".
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Old 02-02-2023, 08:02 AM   #28
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Oh just a few things, I had a water leak which they took care of and I had two shades that came down when we were driving, one of my compartment lock broke, on the driver side I was getting a loud howling noise. On the passenger side the top of the arm rest just came apart.

We couldn't also get no hot water in the rear bathroom the shower part. In the kitchen down below that wooden grill was also broke, and maybe a few other small things nothing too bad. Most of it is done it just that they had to get the okay from Jayco to move on with some of the fixes.
Dang, sounds like ours, so many little issues. Now We have a leak in the main slide that I can't figure out, it's driving me crazy.
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Old 02-06-2023, 09:18 PM   #29
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Dang, sounds like ours, so many little issues. Now We have a leak in the main slide that I can't figure out, it's driving me crazy.
I had that same leak also, what did is on the outside at the bottom tip there is that one cap they removed it and find that it wasn’t seal. So if you start there and work from there you might find the same problem. Remove the bottom cap that is near the door mines wasn’t seal and I can almost bet you will the problem there.
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Old 02-06-2023, 09:29 PM   #30
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Yep, I had to go back and look at the video take that front bottom cap off and reseal it.
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Old 02-07-2023, 06:49 AM   #31
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Yep, I had to go back and look at the video take that front bottom cap off and reseal it.
I think ours is leaking around the outside channel/frame under that cap. They didn't seal the whole frame very well at all. I just ran a bead of clear caulking around the whole thing yesterday so hopefully that will stop the leak.
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Old 02-07-2023, 07:52 PM   #32
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I think ours is leaking around the outside channel/frame under that cap. They didn't seal the whole frame very well at all. I just ran a bead of clear caulking around the whole thing yesterday so hopefully that will stop the leak.
Let’s hope so, hopefully we will have all of ours issues worked our about time we all go camping at the first sign of good weather. Let me know if that work out for you, we want to take care any water leak.
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Old 04-16-2023, 08:05 AM   #33
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Let’s hope so, hopefully we will have all of ours issues worked our about time we all go camping at the first sign of good weather. Let me know if that work out for you, we want to take care any water leak.
Well, so far so good. We have had a few heavy rain days and no more water leak. Looks like it was leaking from the top right corner cap on the big slide. I guess they didn't seal under there at all. I sealed all around it and no more leaks.
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