2018 Jay Flight 24RBS Mods

[Rustic Eagle]

Decided to install the Micro-Air 'EasyStart' that I purchased last fall to optimize my Yamaha EF2400iSCH performance since I do a fair amount of boondocking. The Micro-Air comes with all the connectors and a small length (6") of extra wire. I didn't think it would be enough wire so I picked up an extra 2ft........, and I did use some of it due to routing requirements with my model A/C.

Micro-Air: https://www.microair.net/products/ea...nt=30176048267

Installation was fairly straight forward and completed the install while camping at a State Park with 30amp shore power at my site. I have the Dometic 13,500btu, Brisk II series A/C. I used the following Micro-Air installation guide:

Installation Guide (Dometic):https://www.micro-air.com/support-do...ily_RV_ACs.pdf

A/C cover removed prior to Micro-Air install.......



View with 'run capacitor' electrical cover removed and Micro-Air wires landed/spliced in. I ran the Micro-Air wire bundle in from 'behind' the electrical enclosure with the existing wires.



Top half of black foam cover removed, then spliced in black wire from Micro-Air unit....., this black wire was the 'extra' wire length I used.



Run capacitor cover re-mounted, foam cover installed, and mounted the Micro-Air unit with (2) extra long zip-ties to the side of the A/C plastic base shroud (thru air slots).



Went through the required programming procedure with 30amp shore power..., then tested it with my genny. My generator at idle started the A/C fan without rpm change, when the compressor kicked in the genny's rpm increased was half as much as it did prior to the Micro-Air install . The genny rpm transition from idle to compressor start was smooth.

Happy camper

Bob

[lroyson]

Here is what I did to store my sway bars and hitch. I added a bolt on receiver to install the hitch and a piece of 3" pvc pipe (wish I would have used 4") with a screw on cap. Notice the cap is white, that's because I left the first one on the bumper. So the new one never got painted black. now it has a small cable connected to it so I can't lose it.

[10yearsbehind]

Great stuff here. We just spent our first night in our new to us 24rbs (driveway test run).

Simple but important to me, have you come up with a good mounting spot for a paper towel holder/dispenser? I am considering mounting to the bottom of the cabinet above the KS. To the left of the window.

Thanks for taking the time to post all your work

[daveswanson]

Paper towel holders get jerked a lot . Be sure to use nuts & bolts instead of screws to mount it.

[Rustic Eagle]

10yearsbehind,

Welcome to JOF

Originally Posted by 10yearsbehind

snip....... have you come up with a good mounting spot for a paper towel holder/dispenser? I am considering mounting to the bottom of the cabinet above the KS. To the left of the window.....snip

I still keep my paper towel on the sink counter, then lay it behind the stove top during travel. Your location would be about the best, plus close to the door for convenience. As mentioned, the thin cabinet panel material doesn't fair well with screws as an attachment means.

Bob

[10yearsbehind]

Bob, thanks for the welcome. My name is Scott, I guess I don’t have enough posts for my signature to work? Or it does not work via smart phone?

I noticed the cabinet bottom is very thin. I will cut and lay a 1/4” piece of wood in the bottom of the cabinet and drill through using nuts and bolts. I have other mods in mind, I wish I had your motivation. I will start a thread, eventually, maybe...

Thanks y’all

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by 10yearsbehind

Bob, thanks for the welcome. My name is Scott, I guess I don’t have enough posts for my signature to work? Or it does not work via smart phone?

I noticed the cabinet bottom is very thin. I will cut and lay a 1/4” piece of wood in the bottom of the cabinet and drill through using nuts and bolts. I have other mods in mind, I wish I had your motivation. I will start a thread, eventually, maybe...

Thanks y’all

Welcome to the forum, Scott. I see your sig.

Like RusticEagle, our roll of paper towels ride next to the stove on the road and usually stands on the countertop. BUT they are often needed on the table, outside or .... With 2 dogs and grandkids they move frequently from where they are at to where they needed most.

[Rustic Eagle]

Scott,

Originally Posted by 10yearsbehind

snip..... I guess I don’t have enough posts for my signature to work? .......snip

Working now

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

Recently there have been a couple JOF threads on the subject of moisture being forced into aluminum siding cap joint-seams during rain showers while in-tow.

I haven't experienced any interior/exterior witness marks of moisture intrusion but decided to be pro-active with my TT's aluminum cap joint-seams...., applied a some Dicor caulk as recommended by others.

Prior to Dicor application......





After Dicor application (caulk setback slightly from aluminum edge).....



I cut a small 'angled' opening on the caulk tube tip making it easier to feed the caulk into the joint. I had a cup of soapy water handy for finger dipping and then smoothed out the caulk along the seam....., then removed the tape.

The three aluminum cap joint-seams are completed...., diamond-plate cap joint-seam next on list.

JOF thread reference: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ing-72738.html

Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

Hi Bob,

How would someone like myself go about buying that 1-ish foot extension you put on the water heater drain. I am sanitizing today and now remember what a pain in the ass that plug is and don't intend to use it ever again!!

I don't know what to search up and I have no idea how to make one of those (if a build is required), so I don't even know where to start.

I have a nipple already that has 1/2 NPT, so i just need to connect a hose just like yours, ideally with a shutoff attached so I don't have to even use that OEM plug again.

Thanks
John

[Rustic Eagle]

John,

The pics you attached in your post aren't my drain mod, the pics represent that of JOF member "01tundra' who posted his drain version in this thread (post #50).

Refer back to Post #56 for pics of my drain version, and Post #60 for the detailed parts list.

Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

John,

The pics you attached in your post aren't my drain mod, the pics represent that of JOF member "01tundra' who posted his drain version in this thread (post #50).

Refer back to Post #56 for pics of my drain version, and Post #60 for the detailed parts list.

Bob

Sorry--I had read through this thread the other day when you pointed me here but didn't remember there were TWO sets of pictures by different people!! Thank you for pointing me to these posts. I have very little experience with in home plumbing, so it's a bit of a learning curve doing this with the RV! I will get the parts and install tomorrow. Thank you again.

John

[jhaan]

Any thoughts on drilling a center hole for a single, center hole fixture? It would obviously be easier than drilling through ceramic, but I'm concerned I could crack the counter top.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by jhaan

snip..... but I'm concerned I could crack the counter top.

Not something I've done but imagine it's doable with the proper sharp drill bit(s) for the material in question. To keep the drill bit from slipping on the smooth surface use some masking tape and then mark your drill point location.

Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

Not something I've done but imagine it's doable with the proper sharp drill bit(s) for the material in question. To keep the drill bit from slipping on the smooth surface use some masking tape and then mark your drill point location.

Bob

Any idea what that material in question might be? Seems like plastic huh? (On top of wood of course.)

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by jhaan

Any idea what that material in question might be? Seems like plastic huh? (On top of wood of course.)

That would be my guess...., a thin, inexpensive piece(s) of laminate (plastic) glued to a piece of wood.

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

jhaan,

I have a questions for you......

As you know I have a 2018 24RBS built in September 2017. I've been having some issues with my furnace (presently dealing with) and curious if your 2019 24RBS's furnace installation setup under the jack-knife sofa looks like mine.

I question if the furnace as it's installed is getting enough 'intake' air due to the wood box placed over it with only the front of the box has an inlet opening, top of wood box heats up, and the confinement under the jack-knife sofa. The wood box provides about 2" clearance around the furnace outer metal frame.

The black spot in the upper left of the box top I cut a small opening for access to the furnace "off/reset" switch.



There is less than 2" between the wood box top and the bottom of the sofa when closed.....



Wood box removed, and there isn'y any air flow through the front of the sofa.....



Back (following pic) of jack-knife sofa is really the only obvious air inlet area.., but the rear furnace vents are are blocked by the top of the wood box, and the only wood box vent is up front.



Your feedback would be appreciated.

Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

jhaan,

I have a questions for you......

As you know I have a 2018 24RBS built in September 2017. I've been having some issues with my furnace (presently dealing with) and curious if your 2019 24RBS's furnace installation setup under the jack-knife sofa looks like mine.

My 2019 built in 12/18 has exactly the same setup (as far as I can tell without removing the wood box). I never looked into it, but it definitely seems wildly inefficient, unless that ducting to the outside is actually what is pulling air in? (Also inefficient though.)

Our nights only drop to 40 anywhere we camp at this point, so the furnace is typically "too much" for us if anything. But what is your concern? Not enough air flow in?

[Rustic Eagle]

jhaan,

My concern is that due to the furnace installation confinement (under jack knife sofa) doesn't allow for adequate 'in-coming' air (restricted return air supply) thus compromising the output efficiency of the furnace.

I'm going to contact Dometic-Atwood tech support and forward some pics.

I've been having furnace 'sail switch' issues which brought the in-coming air issue to my attention...., thus leading me to possibly a 'high temperature limit switch' issue.

Bob

[jhaan]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

jhaan,

I'm going to contact Dometic-Atwood tech support and forward some pics.

Keep us posted! On another topic any suggestions on switching out the overhead lights with warmer colors (or blue light filters)? Finally unscrewed one last week and it looks more complex than a traditional light bulb!!

Thanks