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Old 09-20-2017, 05:23 PM   #21
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Craig,

I use a razor knife for cutting/trimming the tape, and depending on the size of the project may have to change out the blade.

As far as surface prep, I usually start out with a good Dawn soapy wash with a brush/cloth, rinse, and let dry. After washing, and prior to applying the sealer tape, you can use a Eternabond Prime product. I have used lacquer thinner applied sparingly to a clean rag wiping over the roof/cap surface following immediately with a clean damp (water) cloth....., let the surface dry.

The key to the application of the sealer tape is "roller pressure" over the tape, this is what activates the adhesive. This is the type of roller I use:



I found the 4" wide tape manageable and I work it over the surface with my fingers to minimize air pockets. Also, cutting the tape to length prior to application helps.

I personally haven't seen the need to run Eternabond along the length of my TT's in the past, I just maintain a good bead of clear silicone caulk along the top edge of the gutter rail.

But, my BIL mentioned last week that he intends to apply a 4" wide Enternabond run the full length (both sides) of his FW using the top edge of the gutter rail as his tape application contact guide. His reason is to protect the radius roofing material from tree branches due to the height of FW's.

Bob
Thank you, Bob! I am going to run the length on both sides like your BIL as well as the rear wall/roof seam and the slide out roof edges. I just want the extra protection. I also plan on doing the refer vent, t.v. antenna, bath fan, and sky light. I know some do not do these areas because it can be a bear to get the Eternabond off if you need to work on any of these items, but I think that I am going to go for it after I install a MaxAir and an upgraded skylight.
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Old 09-20-2017, 06:19 PM   #22
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Eternabond tape is a great product. So far I've done the front seam, both rear seams, radio antenna, rear ladder, and the fridge vent. I've got 3 vents and the skylight left to do. I prepped similar to Bob, washed the area down with Dawn, let that dry and used the Eternabond cleaner before application. I used 4'' in all applications and found it very easy to work with. A quality roller is a must. Don't forget to run a bead of Dicor self leveling lap sealant along all edges of the tape. As far as the roof edge just above the gutter I ran a bead of non leveling Dicor all the way down each side. Seems to holding up nicely.
Edit: By the way Bob, I measured the distance between the table and couch and unfortunately I don't have the room to put the recliner in there. Rats! I was hoping it would work.
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:21 PM   #23
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snip...... and the slide out roof edges.....snip
On my 2018 TT I noticed Jayco uses a 'thin' black sealer tape running the length of the slide roof over the screw heads/flange joint. On my 2005 retired Jayco provided what looked like EternaBond sealer tape over the slide screw heads/flange joint, and when it was time to replace this original sealer tape I had to use a hair dryer to remove the tape (some screw heads started coming through).

I plan to apply EternaBond on the slide roof, just have to decide if I should remove the OEM black sealer tape, tape over it, or hold off for awhile...., will look more closely at the area next week.

Bob
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Old 09-21-2017, 04:28 AM   #24
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On my 2018 TT I noticed Jayco uses a 'thin' black sealer tape running the length of the slide roof over the screw heads/flange joint. On my 2005 retired Jayco provided what looked like EternaBond sealer tape over the slide screw heads/flange joint, and when it was time to replace this original sealer tape I had to use a hair dryer to remove the tape (some screw heads started coming through).

I plan to apply EternaBond on the slide roof, just have to decide if I should remove the OEM black sealer tape, tape over it, or hold off for awhile...., will look more closely at the area next week.

Bob
I am in the same conundrum about the black tape. It is adhering very well at this point. With the slide topper, it receives very little exposure. I think that I am going to leave it and run the Eternabond down the slide out "roof" edges (left and right sides). The factory black tape should last a long time under the topper. I used the Geocel clear caulk everywhere else on the slide out wall seams and over the exposed screws.
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:29 AM   #25
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Unlike my retired '05' Eagle the Jay Flight 24RBS under-the-bed storage is open to the pass-thru storage area. Also, the retired Eagle's plywood bed platform hinge point wasn't all the way to the front of the platform, it was closer to the center of the platform and the plywood was thicker.

It was obvious that the Jay Flight being supported "only" around the perimeter of the plywood platform lacked adequate center support for the long-haul. Purchased some 2x2 (1 1/2") and fasteners and went to work.

Installed one horizontal 2x2 supported by three vertical 2x2 supports...., now the three OEM platform 2x2's are supported as well. I haven't decided if I will close off the under-the-bed storage area yet (leaning to close it off), but will decide before I insulate the top surface area with some Reflectix Insulation (5/16 thick).





Bob
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:20 PM   #26
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Tackled closing off the bed storage/pass-thru storage and added insulation. The intent of the insulation was to cover those little open areas (to the bedroom) and provide some cold air protection.

Closed off area that also adds support under the three Jayco bed platform 2x2's.....,



The three exposed OEM 2x2's are the Jayco installed "stiffeners" attached to the plywood bed platform......,





Bed platform hinge area......,



View with bed raised in bedroom......,



Bob
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:50 PM   #27
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You know, I have the 2017 24rbs and was getting confused that you bought a 2018, but I just figured out that when I choose California on the pull down menu under Floorplans and Prices, my choices for a 2018 Jay Flight are not the same as they are from your location in Michigan !!! That being said, love the way you changed it!

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Old 10-02-2017, 06:26 AM   #28
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Plan on ordering the Marinco detachable cord kit today. I noticed a metal box is part of the kit. What is this metal box used for? Is it needed?

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Old 10-02-2017, 10:35 AM   #29
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Plan on ordering the Marinco detachable cord kit today. I noticed a metal box is part of the kit. What is this metal box used for? Is it needed?
The metal J-box (not needed) is an optional installation means in lieu of the preferred flush mount over an RV's outside wall mouse hole.

Bob
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Old 10-02-2017, 03:51 PM   #30
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Thanks again for your help. Ordered the kit this morning from Amazon.

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The metal J-box (not needed) is an optional installation means in lieu of the preferred flush mount over an RV's outside wall mouse hole.

Bob
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Old 10-02-2017, 04:54 PM   #31
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Decided to install a water line on/off valve at the toilet yesterday after noticing the connection looked a little 'stressed' due to poor PEX line install.



Upon removing the connection I found that the seal was trashed, future leak waiting to happen.......



There wasn't enough space behind the toilet for a in-line steel braided hose connection, installed an elbow to make the connection........



Also installed (from retired Eagle) my TriMetric battery system monitor today.., slow process routing the wiring.......



Bob
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:37 PM   #32
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Installed a drain hose on the pressure relief valve thus keeping water off the LP ignition, flume, and associated electrical hardware.



Plan to dig through my plumbing supplies and see what I can come up with for an open/close valve for the HWH tank drain since I drain my tank often. Seen a couple installs by others.

Bob
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Old 10-05-2017, 05:57 AM   #33
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Very nice, that’s a good idea on the pressure relief valve I may do that myself. I installed one on the tank drain by using a short braided line with a valve like the one you installed on your toilet.
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:55 AM   #34
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snip.......I installed one on the tank drain by using a short braided line with a valve like the one you installed on your toilet.
I also thought about using a braided hose/valve, may end up going that way if my present in-house parts inventory fails me

Bob
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Old 10-07-2017, 04:00 PM   #35
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Enclosed underbelly

Hey Rustic. I also have a 2018 24CRB. While inspecting the underbelly I noticed that mine is open on both sides just behind the front stabilizer bars. It’s about a 10 inch gap. Wide enough to stick my hand in to. There are slots cut there like it was left that way on purpose. Again it is the same on each side.

Is yours this way too?
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Old 10-07-2017, 05:55 PM   #36
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Yes, mine has the same cutout flap, but mine laid fairly flat across the bottom surface of the I-beam, but did have about a 1" opening. I used some black Gorilla tape to close my openings on both sides of the TT.

You may want to consider using some self drilling screws to hold down the cutout flap....., Jayco could have done a better job.

There was a number of areas underneath that I used the Gorilla tape to close up little openings that mice could get in.

Bob
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Old 10-07-2017, 06:24 PM   #37
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Noticed the inside of the rear corner wardrobe closet gets extremely warm with the sun beating on both the side and rear corner walls. Also concerned about potential for condensation (BIL experienced it under same conditions). Added a simple plastic open/close vent...., and it made a notable difference.

I cut a 4" diameter hole and used one screw to hold the vent in place. The entire outer face of the vent rotates to open/close air flow.

I considered using various standard flush mount floor vents, ruled them out for various reasons.



Bob
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Old 10-10-2017, 02:35 PM   #38
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What size is that damaged cone seal? 3/8"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
Decided to install a water line on/off valve at the toilet yesterday after noticing the connection looked a little 'stressed' due to poor PEX line install.



Upon removing the connection I found that the seal was trashed, future leak waiting to happen.......



There wasn't enough space behind the toilet for a in-line steel braided hose connection, installed an elbow to make the connection........



Also installed (from retired Eagle) my TriMetric battery system monitor today.., slow process routing the wiring.......



Bob
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Old 10-10-2017, 04:09 PM   #39
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What size is that damaged cone seal? 3/8"?
There are different style/size cone seals, but if I had reused the same 90 degree swivel connector connection I would used a new swivel cone seal that measures approximately 3/4" OD x 1/2" ID x 3/8" H.

Damaged seal, new seal.....,



New cone seal placed in removed 90 degree swivel connector........,



I keep a few spare cone seals around...., couple different sizes.

Bob
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Old 10-11-2017, 02:50 AM   #40
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Thanks for the help.

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There are different style/size cone seals, but if I had reused the same 90 degree swivel connector connection I would used a new swivel cone seal that measures approximately 3/4" OD x 1/2" ID x 3/8" H.

Damaged seal, new seal.....,



New cone seal placed in removed 90 degree swivel connector........,



I keep a few spare cone seals around...., couple different sizes.

Bob
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