2018 Jay Flight 24RBS Mods

[lroyson]

So if I understand you added 3 new vents or air intakes. One on top of the furnace box, one on the side of the furnace box facing the entrance door and one in the bedroom on the wall that backs up against the furnace.

[RichCarter]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

Yes, last winter (2019/2020) I put to rest my concerns about the elevated operating temperature of the furnace...
Bob

Nice mod and great info. I've added this to my list. Thanks for the posting.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by lroyson

So if I understand you added 3 new vents or air intakes........snip

You're correct.

Since you own a 2017 24RBS, you may find the only cold air return opening is located between the jackknife sofa frame-base and the narrow horizontal panel (seen in photo) mounted over the wood box enclosure. NOTE: The narrow horizontal panel was not shown in my post #220 photos (removed to access/remove wood box enclosure, but was re-installed).

I located the two wood box enclosure vents near this cold air return 'opening'.



There isn't any 'opening' between the furnace compartment and the small storage area (to right of furnace) under the jackknife sofa.

The addition of the bedroom wall vent was too specifically address the condition when the jackknife sofa was positioned/used as a bed thus blocking the only cold air return opening.

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

The following photo is a screen-shot I took yesterday from a RV dealership youtube video of a new 2021 24RBS.

I've not been able to confirm what the added wood framed detail is mounted on the top panel (rear of) of the wood box furnace enclosure..... (a vent???)



Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

Installed a "HyperVent" Mattress Pad today under my upgraded mattress which provides an air gap between the mattress and plywood platform.

I haven't had issues with condensation under my previous RV mattresses, but I've run across more stories recently about the resulting mess when condensation develops under an RV mattress.

The HyperVent product is a little pricey, but I see it as an insurance policy when considering the cost investment of a good upgraded mattress. The HyperVent stays in place once the weight of the mattress is applied, and the plastic webbing doesn't 'compress' even with the added occupant(s) weight.

View of HyperVent installed under my full queen mattress.....



HyperVent: https://www.hyperventonline.com

Purchased from: https://www.fisheriessupply.com

Another nice thing about the product it can be removed and placed in the next RV purchase

Bob

[Crabman]

Bob, you have been busy during your Winter quarantine!

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Crabman

Bob, you have been busy during your Winter quarantine!

Yes..., I visit the RV storage lot weekly, severe case of cabin-fever this winter



Staying at home base this winter kept me clear of the recent nasty winter storm in Texas...., but I did have contact with my Texas RV friends sharing their challenging experiences during the storm.

Bob

[Jay2504]

Bob, thank you so much for the write up of the furnace mods. That is way better than my simple idea of just a vent put in the lower vertical panel of the couch. A couple of questions. When the furnace (or at least the blower) is running, can you feel air being drawn in through the vent in the bedroom wall? Do you think that the hot air coming out of the bedroom floor register is far enough away from the new cold air return so that the air doesn’t just “short circuit” from the floor register to the cold air return. That was one of my concerns with my couch vent idea, the new vent that I was thinking about putting in would be too close to the register by the couch. Jay

[Rustic Eagle]

Jay,

Originally Posted by Jay2504

snip........ When the furnace (or at least the blower) is running, can you feel air being drawn in through the vent in the bedroom wall?

Yes......, while the furnace was running I preformed the certified HVAC 'tissue' test:



NOTE: The standard vent cover I used is larger than the wall opening I created (could have been smaller) to expose the blower louver area, and it was apparent that the vent slots directly across from the blower louvers was the cold air path.

Originally Posted by Jay2504

snip..... Do you think that the hot air coming out of the bedroom floor register is far enough away from the new cold air return so that the air doesn’t just “short circuit” from the floor register to the cold air return.....snip

Dometic/Attwood specifications recommend a 24" distance between floor registers and return air vent openings. If my memory serves me correctly I was possibly a couple inches shy of the 24".

The cold air return opening location was next to the outer wall, and it appeared to be drawing air from the floor along the outer wall...., and the warm air flow exiting the bedroom floor register (110-126 degrees) didn't seem affected at all.

IMO the added bedroom wall return air vent and the added return air vent located on top of the wood box enclosure were the two main game changers.

Bob

[Jay2504]

Wow! That bedroom cold air return pulls way more than I thought it would. Thanks for the additional pictures and information. I haven’t had mine apart yet, is there any part of the wooden box that has to be cut away for the bedroom vent? I don’t even know if there is wood on that side of the box. Looking at what you have done has moved this a long way on my list of mods to do when I get the unit out of storage in a few days. Jay.

[Rustic Eagle]

jay,

Originally Posted by Jay2504

snip..... is there any part of the wooden box that has to be cut away for the bedroom vent?

Nope..., the wood box is totally open against the bedroom wall, just the outer wood frame piece is screwed to the bedroom wall (one screw, reference post #220 pic).

It was very apparent the blower motor was starving for air.

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

Noticed for the first time a few days ago that there was two ground wire connections landed in the rear wheel well of my TT......, exposed to all the elements and tire debris. It appears these two 12V ground wires originated at the 120V breaker/12V fuse box spaghetti factory.

I haven't had any issues with my 12V system (other than the GM 12V integrated brake system), but the connections were in dire need of cleaning, which I did.

Location within wheel well, and cleaning completed......



Location on opposite side of I-beam entering through underbody material..., no comment.



Fortunately the ground wire entry location was to the right of my slide motor access opening. Also found that my slide motor was a 'tad' loose so snugged down the two small motor flange bolts......



Sealed up some potential mouse entry points around the LP hose and blue ground wire housing tube at the sub-floor covering.



Easy task, and possibly saving a future 'unwanted' 12V issue.

Bob

[Rick H]

Ok,so I saw this and purchased the parts. Didn’t think for a second that the heater is different on the 2021 24rbs. The relief valve is higher on the left, and the pipe opening is horizontal about 1cm from a plate so unable to connect there. The main drain is a plastic cap that goes over the drain hole as opposed to a plug that goes into the drain hole. Also it is to far forward to put any extensions on. Has any one else got the newer heater and any suggestion. Can’t even find a spare cap to put in the spares bag, all seem to be plug type online. Iuk

[itsaJayco]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

missey365,

Removal of the original fan was straight forward, and I was glad to see it go.

Installation of the new fan was also non-eventful, but a 3rd hand would of come in handy

Bob

I asked wife for help, needed that 3rd hand. She sends youngest who while standing on the toilet still couldn't reach. What should have taken 5 minutes to install took 20... It super easy for any novice DIYers.

[Rustic Eagle]

Unexpected Mod:

On a trip north a few weeks ago I lost my trailer brakes (100%) during the last 150 miles of a 200 mile trip. The use of a multi-meter and jiggling a few TT brake wires at my campsite confirmed the brake wire-pair running through the 'rear' axle tube were shorting out.



I've been experiencing intermittent "Check Trailer Wiring" alerts from my TV's integrated braking control system the last couple years and recently made some minor upgrades hoping to eliminate these alerts......., they didn't work.

Reference JOF thread: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...t-77238-2.html

It's apparent that the brake wiring routed through the axle tubes can over time become compromised due to wire movement within the axle tubes.

Temporary Campsite Fix:

Using the same wiring, I taped-up the exposed wire and remounted the wiring on the outside of the axle tube. Confirmed with multi-meter at the TT's 7-pin connector that my amp resistance was good again.



During the trip back to home-base I had two "Check Trailer Wiring" alerts, each lasting one second, a whole lot better than 'no brakes' like the prior week! I plan to remove the wires from the 'front axle tube, then install new wiring "outside" both axle tubes hoping the "Check Trailer Wiring" alerts disappear.

NOTE: Upon removing the "existing" wiring from the "front" axle tube, I did find two spots were a wire strand was just breaking through the insulation.

Permanent Storage Lot MOD Fix:

I ran 16 ga. wire through each PEX tube (72 1/2" lg.) with 12" of wire hanging out each end of the PEX tube prior to mounting to the axle tube. I utilized the same color wiring as the old wiring (red/black) for ease in cutting the old connections and making the new connections.

I attached the PEX tubing to both axles using 3-hose clamps and 4-zip ties per axle. The location of the PEX tubing was centered on the 'back-side' of each axle tube, thus minimizing potential road debris contact while in-tow.

Four (4) new 3M waterproof connectors at each axle for required wire connections were used.



I used 3/8" split wire loom tubing inserted (snug fit) into the ID of the PEX tubing thus keeping the wire from rubbing against the PEX ID radius edge. I trimmed back the new wiring to-suit, and after cutting away the old connectors reconnected the new wiring as required.



Using 1/2" split wire loom tubing to cover the end of the PEX tubing and all exposed wiring, insuring wire & connectors can't come into contact with the axle tube hardware and/or brake assembly back plate.

I plan to come up with a simple protective cover over the new connectors.



I haven't preformed a road test yet, but did connect the TT's 7-pin connector to my TV and the welcomed "Trailer Connected" was displayed and "didn't" fault over to the "Check Trailer Wiring" alert.

Material Used:

* (2) 10ft long 1/2" PEX tubing
* (6) Hose clamps
* (8) 3M Scotchlok IDC Connector 314 (connects 2 or 3 wires)
* (20ft) 16ga 12V DC stranded red wire
* (20ft) 16ga 12V DC stranded black wire
* (1-lot) Zip Ties
* (1-lot) 3/8" & 1/2" split wire loom tubing

Bob

[16WhiteColly]

Nice job. You should be ok with the connectors as they are. No need to cover them.

[Jay2504]

That looks very good. I am going to rewire all of my brakes along with the rest of the wiring under the camper. Luckily, I don’t have an enclosed underbelly, so I get to see what a big mess that the whole underneath wiring is. Jay

[Jay2504]

I agree with 16 WhiteColly, if the conectors are waterproof, there is no need to put on a cover. Jay

[Rustic Eagle]

With the on-going NHTSA safety recall on the Winnttec model 6020 LP regulator within the RV Industry, I decided to be pro-active in installing a new Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253 Regulator. I'll deal with my RV dealership once I receive my official recall notice..., which I suspect will be a long drawn out process.

I reused the existing Winntec regulator mounting bracket (I preferred over Marshall bracket) and all four (4) clearance holes lined up perfectly with the Marshall regulator's four (4) threaded holes. The Marshall regulator is positioned a little higher than the prior Winntec regulator, but still plenty of clearance below the LP tank cover. I did however have to 'bend' the LP tank rack "wing-nut ears up" a tad to clear the top of the Marshall regulator.

I elected to go with a pair of new 15" long pigtail hoses in lieu of the standard 12" long hoses, thus reducing the tight hose radius's. The longer pigtail also reduced the tension at the crimped hose ends, especially at the regulator connections (prone to leak). I rotated the LP tanks as required, and the hoses also clear the inside of the tank cover.

When I took delivery of the TT back in late 2017, the LP regulator was located facing the TT cap..., it was at that time I relocated the original regulator facing the TV which I find more user friendly.






Purchased Material:

* (1) Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253, 2-Stage Auto Vertical Bulk Regulator

* (2) Marshall Excelsior MER425-15, 1/4" Male Inverted Flare, Type 1 Pig Tail, w/Green Nut

* (1) Marshall Excelsior MEGR-862 Regulator Cover (cover not shown in photos)

IMPORTANT NOTE: I didn't purchase the Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253H (High Flow) model regulator..., note that this model regulator requires the Marshall Excelsior MER425H-"X" length, 1/4" Male Inverted Flare, Type 1 Pig Tail, w/Red Nut.

Bob

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

snip.......I haven't preformed a road test yet........snip

Road tested completed:

Arrived at campground (150 miles) yesterday and didn't experienced any "Check Trailer Wiring" alerts. Also, the TT brakes did their job, this must be another good sign



Bob