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Old 12-18-2015, 12:49 PM   #51
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Setup is looking pretty nice! Now I have to make sure mine is up to the same standards when I install solar next year.

Been working on my battery monitor software/hardware lately. Finally got my shunt in, only took two weeks to get from BC to ON, could have got it from China sooner.
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Old 01-01-2016, 09:21 PM   #52
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To fix the issue (i hope) with the stranded wire in the 40A breaker, i bought a piece of copper bar on Amazon. 12"x1"x0.125" i think. Quickly cut it with a hacksaw... not perfect... and drilled a hole. I think this will work out pretty well.



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Old 01-01-2016, 09:30 PM   #53
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I also picked up the batteries. Props to Steve at American Battery Corp in Colorado Springs. He doesn't normally stock the CR-260 but added them to his last order for me.

I think two batteries would have been fine for us. But I like that i can lose a battery now and still have 12V power. And for the extra $350 at this point in the project it was worth not having to worry about it down the road.

I'm still not sure about the box. Its nice plastic and the batteries obviously fit. But I still think i might look for an aluminum truck toolbox that might offer me a little bit of storage space. Either way i'm glad to have a workable option and i can return this one to Home Depot if i go another direction.

Either way the box will be mounted on the tongue unless for some reason there isn't enough room behind the propane bottles.

This is the box: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Buyers-Pr...2230/204338334



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Old 01-01-2016, 09:39 PM   #54
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Final update for the day... I have a VIN! We ordered on 11/24. I called Jayco and left a message for them. Hoping they will let me know where it stands in the manufacturing process and expected ship date.
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Old 01-08-2016, 06:15 PM   #55
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Some days only bring a little bit of progress, but its better than none!

I'm using the shunt as a terminal block, and with three beefy ring terminals stacked up, the stock bolt (5/8") wasn't long enough. It may have worked if I pulled off the lock washer, but i was able to find the right bolt at Fastenal today.

3/8-16, 1", brass, hex head



It worked great. A 7/8" would have worked, too. And maybe even a 3/4".
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Old 01-27-2016, 10:55 AM   #56
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Just a quick update on this. I was trying to figure out a good way to terminate the DC connections to the solar panels and also to the trailer's DC panel. I wanted something that was covered to protect the terminals. I bought a couple of cheap ANL fuse blocks and simply didn't install a fuse. Nice screw down terminals with a plastic cover. I did have to cut holes for the cables to enter the sides (versus the end) but that worked very well. This should make it very easy to terminate those connections once the board is installed in the trailer.

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Old 01-27-2016, 11:24 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMC View Post
Just a quick update on this. I was trying to figure out a good way to terminate the DC connections to the solar panels and also to the trailer's DC panel. I wanted something that was covered to protect the terminals. I bought a couple of cheap ANL fuse blocks and simply didn't install a fuse. Nice screw down terminals with a plastic cover. I did have to cut holes for the cables to enter the sides (versus the end) but that worked very well. This should make it very easy to terminate those connections once the board is installed in the trailer.

Smart idea!
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Old 01-27-2016, 01:58 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMC View Post
Just a quick update on this. I was trying to figure out a good way to terminate the DC connections to the solar panels and also to the trailer's DC panel. I wanted something that was covered to protect the terminals. I bought a couple of cheap ANL fuse blocks and simply didn't install a fuse. Nice screw down terminals with a plastic cover. I did have to cut holes for the cables to enter the sides (versus the end) but that worked very well. This should make it very easy to terminate those connections once the board is installed in the trailer.

Man, that's nice!

Just so I understand:

Solar input (+ & -) goes to ANL Fuse holder without a fuse (protected lug) in lower left?

Green lines at the bottom to chassis ground?

The left breaker box, left side, is your breaker in the line between the panels and the charge controller?

The left breaker box, right side, is your breaker in the line between the charge controller and battery?

Red disconnect on left side is a disconnect between charge controler and battery?

The bottom center ANL fuse holder with fuse?

The top left ANL fuse holder without fuse to the camper charger/converter?

Right disconnect to disconnect power to Magnum inverter/charger?

Right breaker box for 120 out of inverter to what ever you wire it to?

Do I have it right?
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Old 01-27-2016, 02:32 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdash View Post
Man, that's nice!

Just so I understand:

Solar input (+ & -) goes to ANL Fuse holder without a fuse (protected lug) in lower left?

Green lines at the bottom to chassis ground?

The left breaker box, left side, is your breaker in the line between the panels and the charge controller?

The left breaker box, right side, is your breaker in the line between the charge controller and battery?

Red disconnect on left side is a disconnect between charge controler and battery?

The bottom center ANL fuse holder with fuse?

The top left ANL fuse holder without fuse to the camper charger/converter?

Right disconnect to disconnect power to Magnum inverter/charger?

Right breaker box for 120 out of inverter to what ever you wire it to?

Do I have it right?
Yep, you basically nailed it!

Red disconnect on left side is a disconnect between charge controler and battery? This is just a general purpose battery disconnect from the rest of the system.

The bottom center ANL fuse holder with fuse? This is a 300A T fuse for the inverter. Recommendations are to have one as close to the inverter as possible.


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Old 01-27-2016, 03:08 PM   #60
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Yep, you basically nailed it!

Red disconnect on left side is a disconnect between charge controler and battery? This is just a general purpose battery disconnect from the rest of the system.

The bottom center ANL fuse holder with fuse? This is a 300A T fuse for the inverter. Recommendations are to have one as close to the inverter as possible.


Not seen here, obviously, is that there will be another 300A T fuse located inside the battery box.
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