29BHDS solar

[JMC]

Got the AC wired up to the inverter and sub panel. I wanted everything inside the panel to be wired before installing into the trailer. Just makes it easier to do and keep clean. So i added a junction box where i'll pull the 20A interter input circuit and the outlet circuits from the trailer load center. This way I will just need to wire nut three circuits together once everything is installed in the trailer. Much easier than trying to wire the subpanel at that point when this thing is installed under the bed.

[Fairenatic]

Originally Posted by JMC

Got the AC wired up to the inverter and sub panel. I wanted everything inside the panel to be wired before installing into the trailer. Just makes it easier to do and keep clean. So i added a junction box where i'll pull the 20A interter input circuit and the outlet circuits from the trailer load center. This way I will just need to wire nut three circuits together once everything is installed in the trailer. Much easier than trying to wire the subpanel at that point when this thing is installed under the bed.

I was going to put everything under the bed, including the batteries but I am having second thoughts about the inverter. Some of them can make more noise than one would like. What do you think?

[Mustang65]

VERY NICE JOB!!!!
Don

[JMC]

Originally Posted by Fairenatic

I was going to put everything under the bed, including the batteries but I am having second thoughts about the inverter. Some of them can make more noise than one would like. What do you think?

I believe the Magnum's are basically silent. I think I've read that from some others. The alternative is for it to still be in the front storage compartment, which connects to the under-bed storage. So its only a few feet difference...

[Fire_Instructor]

Are you doing an automatic cut-over that shuts-off the inverter feed if/when you plug the trailer into shore power? On my old unit, I installed an outlet, fed exclusively by the inverter, right next to the shore-power connection, and I would do this manually, by plugging the trailer into itself....

[JMC]

Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor

Are you doing an automatic cut-over that shuts-off the inverter feed if/when you plug the trailer into shore power? On my old unit, I installed an outlet, fed exclusively by the inverter, right next to the shore-power connection, and I would do this manually, by plugging the trailer into itself....

When plugged into shore power the Magnum unit will pass AC through to my sub-panel... and will simultaneously run in converter mode to charge the batteries.

I think the difference is that my inverter isn't powering the whole trailer. I'm pulling just the wall outlet circuits into a subpanel behind the inverter.

[JMC]

Max wire size into the Morningstar is 2 AWG. Its a tight fit...



Ran 6 AWG ground wires to inverter, solar controller and solar breaker box.

[JMC]

Breakers for the solar controller circuits are finished. Wiring the 2 AWG to the 80A circuit was very easy. The wiring terminal on the 40A was too tight, and I had to pull back some of the copper strands and cut them before it would fit.

I'd actually like to find the add-on terminal and a strip of solid copper stock like is used on the 80A and add it to the 40A. Much cleaner and a more solid connection. But I can only find the part on sites like Alibaba with minimum orders of 1000 units...

[Mustang65]

NICE!
One of the things you need to keep an eye on regarding the thin wire welders cables and connections where only a screw is tightened into the wire, is that they WILL come loose, due to temperature changes and vibration. What I did originally was to take the crimp type lug and cut off the wire crimp end cut that in half and slid it under the screw to give it a wider area to compress the thin wire. The connections stayed tight after that. The object is to put a flat piece of metal between the screw and the wire so that all the pressure on the wire is coming from the inserted piece of metal.

REAL NICE JOB!!
Don

[JMC]

Thanks, Don. Glad you called that out as an issue, as its the first thing on the project that i'm just not happy with. More to come once I get it worked out.

[PlayersZ28]

Setup is looking pretty nice! Now I have to make sure mine is up to the same standards when I install solar next year.

Been working on my battery monitor software/hardware lately. Finally got my shunt in, only took two weeks to get from BC to ON, could have got it from China sooner.

[JMC]

To fix the issue (i hope) with the stranded wire in the 40A breaker, i bought a piece of copper bar on Amazon. 12"x1"x0.125" i think. Quickly cut it with a hacksaw... not perfect... and drilled a hole. I think this will work out pretty well.

[JMC]

I also picked up the batteries. Props to Steve at American Battery Corp in Colorado Springs. He doesn't normally stock the CR-260 but added them to his last order for me.

I think two batteries would have been fine for us. But I like that i can lose a battery now and still have 12V power. And for the extra $350 at this point in the project it was worth not having to worry about it down the road.

I'm still not sure about the box. Its nice plastic and the batteries obviously fit. But I still think i might look for an aluminum truck toolbox that might offer me a little bit of storage space. Either way i'm glad to have a workable option and i can return this one to Home Depot if i go another direction.

Either way the box will be mounted on the tongue unless for some reason there isn't enough room behind the propane bottles.

This is the box: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Buyers-Pr...2230/204338334

[JMC]

Final update for the day... I have a VIN! We ordered on 11/24. I called Jayco and left a message for them. Hoping they will let me know where it stands in the manufacturing process and expected ship date.

[JMC]

Some days only bring a little bit of progress, but its better than none!

I'm using the shunt as a terminal block, and with three beefy ring terminals stacked up, the stock bolt (5/8") wasn't long enough. It may have worked if I pulled off the lock washer, but i was able to find the right bolt at Fastenal today.

3/8-16, 1", brass, hex head



It worked great. A 7/8" would have worked, too. And maybe even a 3/4".

[JMC]

Just a quick update on this. I was trying to figure out a good way to terminate the DC connections to the solar panels and also to the trailer's DC panel. I wanted something that was covered to protect the terminals. I bought a couple of cheap ANL fuse blocks and simply didn't install a fuse. Nice screw down terminals with a plastic cover. I did have to cut holes for the cables to enter the sides (versus the end) but that worked very well. This should make it very easy to terminate those connections once the board is installed in the trailer.

[jaycojls]

Originally Posted by JMC

Just a quick update on this. I was trying to figure out a good way to terminate the DC connections to the solar panels and also to the trailer's DC panel. I wanted something that was covered to protect the terminals. I bought a couple of cheap ANL fuse blocks and simply didn't install a fuse. Nice screw down terminals with a plastic cover. I did have to cut holes for the cables to enter the sides (versus the end) but that worked very well. This should make it very easy to terminate those connections once the board is installed in the trailer.

Smart idea!

[Cdash]

Originally Posted by JMC

Just a quick update on this. I was trying to figure out a good way to terminate the DC connections to the solar panels and also to the trailer's DC panel. I wanted something that was covered to protect the terminals. I bought a couple of cheap ANL fuse blocks and simply didn't install a fuse. Nice screw down terminals with a plastic cover. I did have to cut holes for the cables to enter the sides (versus the end) but that worked very well. This should make it very easy to terminate those connections once the board is installed in the trailer.

Man, that's nice!

Just so I understand:

Solar input (+ & -) goes to ANL Fuse holder without a fuse (protected lug) in lower left?

Green lines at the bottom to chassis ground?

The left breaker box, left side, is your breaker in the line between the panels and the charge controller?

The left breaker box, right side, is your breaker in the line between the charge controller and battery?

Red disconnect on left side is a disconnect between charge controler and battery?

The bottom center ANL fuse holder with fuse?

The top left ANL fuse holder without fuse to the camper charger/converter?

Right disconnect to disconnect power to Magnum inverter/charger?

Right breaker box for 120 out of inverter to what ever you wire it to?

Do I have it right?

[JMC]

Originally Posted by Cdash

Man, that's nice!

Just so I understand:

Solar input (+ & -) goes to ANL Fuse holder without a fuse (protected lug) in lower left?

Green lines at the bottom to chassis ground?

The left breaker box, left side, is your breaker in the line between the panels and the charge controller?

The left breaker box, right side, is your breaker in the line between the charge controller and battery?

Red disconnect on left side is a disconnect between charge controler and battery?

The bottom center ANL fuse holder with fuse?

The top left ANL fuse holder without fuse to the camper charger/converter?

Right disconnect to disconnect power to Magnum inverter/charger?

Right breaker box for 120 out of inverter to what ever you wire it to?

Do I have it right?

Yep, you basically nailed it!

Red disconnect on left side is a disconnect between charge controler and battery? This is just a general purpose battery disconnect from the rest of the system.

The bottom center ANL fuse holder with fuse? This is a 300A T fuse for the inverter. Recommendations are to have one as close to the inverter as possible.

[JMC]

Originally Posted by JMC

Yep, you basically nailed it!

Red disconnect on left side is a disconnect between charge controler and battery? This is just a general purpose battery disconnect from the rest of the system.

The bottom center ANL fuse holder with fuse? This is a 300A T fuse for the inverter. Recommendations are to have one as close to the inverter as possible.

Not seen here, obviously, is that there will be another 300A T fuse located inside the battery box.