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Old 04-18-2013, 08:23 PM   #1
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Adding a second 30 Amp connection to bunkhouse (advice welcome)

In short, contacted several places about having second ac unit installed in bunkhouse. Prices seem too high, and portable ac unit or possible self install of roof unit being considered. I am going to price just having this done, or may attempt myself. Let me link you to the 3 things I will purchase to do this mod. First..http://www.amazon.com/Park-Power-301...ywords=marinco. Second..http://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-30RP...ywords=marinco and third...http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55223-15...xgy_auto_img_z. My bunkhouse has closets on both sides of the back wall. I figured I could come into the bottom of one of those. (Scared to death though to cut a hole in a new TT!) Now is where I get a little confused. I talked to a home electrician, and he said since there is a breaker at the pedestal, I wouldn't need one inside the TT. Yes, no, maybe? Also, for now, I just want to install an outlet inside the closet(he said GFI), until I decide on which type unit. (Heck I can run wire from a roof unit and cover it myself or I can try a portable AC and take it back if the results aren't there). So, once I have the Park Power 301ELRV 30 Amp 125V Standard RV Inlet installed, do I just run wire over to a outlet box and go? If I go with a breaker(20 amp)I guess I would run wire from the back of the inlet to a small single breaker box, and from there to an outlet? Thanks for your advice. I can purchase those 3 things for $130. Probably another $50 on misc. install stuff and be half way there. If I go with a roof unit, your talking at tops probably $900(have seen some Coleman's for around $600). So I could do it for close to a $1000 rather than the $1600 to $1800 price that dealers and techs are telling me. Your thoughts.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:42 PM   #2
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Adding a second 30 Amp connection to bunkhouse (advice welcome)

I would say you would be better off with the roof a/c! I would shop around and watch for sales, my brother just added one to his motorhome and he got a 15k coleman mach for 500.00 on sale. He took his mh in to a repair shop and they installed it for 400 dollars and that included all hardware and cable to hook to the pedestal. Keep doing your research and you will be fine.
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:10 PM   #3
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I'd do roof A/C (low profile type). Not sure if your hear at the beach now r not but Camping Connection in Surfside usually have surplus of parts etc including new A/C units. Cant tell you how much the savings are over CW though.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:06 AM   #4
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The power pedestals in CGs are not like the ones in marinas. You are not going to find many if any at all with dual 30A connections. There will be a 50A, 30A, and in most of the newer CGs, a 20A. So if you are going to add an additional 30A service, you'll have to use an adapter all the thine. If you are going to add an additional AC, I would consider upgrading to 50A service, split it, and have 100A of service, or go add a 20A setup dedicated to the second AC.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:07 AM   #5
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The power pedestals in CGs are not like the ones in marinas. You are not going to find many if any at all with dual 30A connections. There will be a 50A, 30A, and in most of the newer CGs, a 20A. So if you are going to add an additional 30A service, you'll have to use an adapter all the thine. If you are going to add an additional AC, I would consider upgrading to 50A service, split it, and have 100A of service, or go add a 20A setup dedicated to the second AC.
Marinco does make an adapter cord that splits a 50A plug into two 30s, but the last one I sold a customer was around $400.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:12 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Bob Landry View Post
The power pedestals in CGs are not like the ones in marinas. You are not going to find many if any at all with dual 30A connections. There will be a 50A, 30A, and in most of the newer CGs, a 20A. So if you are going to add an additional 30A service, you'll have to use an adapter all the thine. If you are going to add an additional AC, I would consider upgrading to 50A service, split it, and have 100A of service, or go add a 20A setup dedicated to the second AC.
I presently hook up to 50 amp with an adapter. That would leave the 30 amp pedestal connection available for use. My dealers, electric guy told me I could install the power myself. Showed me what I needed, and stressed how easy it is to do. Easy for him to say. Of course then I still have to buy an AC unit and have the vent removed, unit installed, wire run along ceiling and down the wall, and covered with wire molding. Another local dealer I spoke to today, said $1500. He told me that they charge around $1000 to replace a AC unit. He pointed out that in addition to that, he would be removing the vent, running the wire, and covering it, and putting in a power cord just like the one I have. When he puts it that way, the cost doesn't sound too bad. I did check with some local dealers, and they said they charged $150, labor, to replace a unit. Still not sure what I'm going to do. This recent reply from jayco also has me a little concerned....



Thank you for contacting Jayco Customer Service.

I have attached a copy of the roof schematic for your unit showing the locations of the pre-framed areas for vents.

Jayco can not give any recommendations or provide any information in regards to modifications for your unit. As you can see in the roof schematic that I have attached all the vent openings are framed the same way. With that being said adding a second A/C to your unit is considered a modification and will be at your own risk. If you should install the second A/C and any damages occur to that area of the trailer your Jayco Limited Warranty would be voided to that area of the unit.

If you need further assistance please contact Jayco Customer Service
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:05 PM   #7
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You did say "Advice welcome" and "Your thoughts" in the first post.

FWIW I agree with Bob Landry. You will not always find opportunities to connect two separate 30 amp services to one campground power pedestal. If all you need is one stand alone additional (supplemental) rooftop A/C unit then a 50 amp service or two 30 amp services is overkill and a waste of money.

As Mr. Landry mentioned, to suit your purpose you should be prepared to utilize what the typical campground pedestal provides. Typically that is one 30 amp 120 volt receptacle and a 20 amp 120 volt (possibly only 15 amp) duplex receptacle.

Your supplemental rooftop unit will run on a 20 amp 120 volt receptacle feed just fine. It will likely run on a 15 amp, but that depends upon the BTU's of the unit.

Were I you, I would add a 20 amp 120 volt capability dedicated to the additional (or supplemental) A/C unit. That way you can be fairly certain that you wil be able to plug into the common campground pedestal units provided.

As to whether you need a main breaker. The pedestal should have a 30 amp breaker to protect a 30 amp receptacle and a 20 amp breaker to protect a 20 amp receptacle. Those breakers should adequately protect a properly sized service cord to your trailer.

There may be an older rule in the NEC which could apply to your additional service. That rule requires you to have a panel main breaker or disconnect unless all power can be shut off with six motions of the hand. So if you have less than 6 power breakers in total you should not need a main breaker. That said, having two power services to a travel trailer is an unusual situation. Most technicians would assume that all 120 volt shore power to the trailer is off when the 30 amp cord is disconnected. It might be wise to post a warning sign stating that unplugging the 30 amp service may not remove all 120 volt electrical power to the trailer.
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Originally Posted by krackeer View Post
...


Thank you for contacting Jayco Customer Service.

I have attached a copy of the roof schematic for your unit showing the locations of the pre-framed areas for vents.

Jayco can not give any recommendations or provide any information in regards to modifications for your unit. As you can see in the roof schematic that I have attached all the vent openings are framed the same way. With that being said adding a second A/C to your unit is considered a modification and will be at your own risk. If you should install the second A/C and any damages occur to that area of the trailer your Jayco Limited Warranty would be voided to that area of the unit.

If you need further assistance please contact Jayco Customer Service
"any damages occur to that area of the trailer your Jayco Limited Warranty would be voided to that area of the unit"

The way that I interpret that statement is that IF the supplemental A/C unit causes a problem then THAT specific problem will not be covered. They are not saying that your entire warranty would be void.

If you really need the supplemental A/C unit to make your camper comfortable then I wouldn't let that "cover their azz" warranty statement stop you.

As an aside. If you do add an additional or supplemental A/C unit it would be wise to keep in mind that when it comes to A/C cooling bigger isn't always better. One of the critical aspects of comfort air conditioning cooling is dehumidification. A properly sized unit will pull the moisture out of the air as it cools down the temperature. If too large a capacity unit is installed then the room air is cooled too quickly and the moisture is not removed from the air. This can result in an uncomfortable clammy feeling even though the temperature is at setpoint. A small unit is likely all that you will need for supplemental cooling. FWIW. vic
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:30 AM   #8
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Your question was about an additional service, but the real question might more be why do you need more A/C capacity? The OEM A/C unit should be sized for your trailer. You may have more a problem with localized temperature than you do with A/C unit capacity. In homes that problem is often more evident at night when the setback temperatures are bit higher, doors are closed, and the lack of sun loading causes the A/C unit to cycle less frequently. Some thermostats have a built in automatic periodic fan run feature (independent of thermostat setpoint vs actual temperature) which helps prevent the air stagnation and localized warmer areas.

If you have a constant fan setting for the A/C you may find that running the fan all the time will make your space comfortable. Sorry that I didn't think to include this thought in my first reply. vic
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:03 AM   #9
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Your question was about an additional service, but the real question might more be why do you need more A/C capacity? The OEM A/C unit should be sized for your trailer. You may have more a problem with localized temperature than you do with A/C unit capacity. In homes that problem is often more evident at night when the setback temperatures are bit higher, doors are closed, and the lack of sun loading causes the A/C unit to cycle less frequently. Some thermostats have a built in automatic periodic fan run feature (independent of thermostat setpoint vs actual temperature) which helps prevent the air stagnation and localized warmer areas.

If you have a constant fan setting for the A/C you may find that running the fan all the time will make your space comfortable. Sorry that I didn't think to include this thought in my first reply. vic
If I am not mistaken, I think my fan has 3 settings, on, off and automatic. Sounds like an idea worth trying. I have a 15K BTU unit. For some reason it seems that bunkhouse TT have a difficult time cooling the bunkhouse area properly. I am also considering buying 2 Vornado under cabinet fans, and mounting the on the ceiling, one facing each set of bunks. I think that might help as well.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:49 PM   #10
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Moving air with a couple fans should help. Some people find that a breeze is uncomfortable. Personally I don't find it a problem at all.

You may find that you only need to put the fan on constant run for night operation. During the day the sun loading on the trailer will cause more frequent A/C on cycles and the bunkhouse area is likely not occupied during the day.

I hope this works out for you. As you said, it's worth at least a try before spending the amount of money you listed in the estimates. vic
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:09 PM   #11
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Moving air with a couple fans should help. Some people find that a breeze is uncomfortable. Personally I don't find it a problem at all.

You may find that you only need to put the fan on constant run for night operation. During the day the sun loading on the trailer will cause more frequent A/C on cycles and the bunkhouse area is likely not occupied during the day.

I hope this works out for you. As you said, it's worth at least a try before spending the amount of money you listed in the estimates. vic
I have come up with an idea to try. First, I am going to replace the duct cover with one that blows in opposite directions. The oem with the Jayco, only blows air in one direction. This way I can have airflow going directly towards both sets of bunks. Secondly, I plan on purchasing 3 Vornado under the counter air circulators. They fold up and down and rotate 360 deg, I will place 2 of them in the center of the ceiling. One facing each set of bunks. I will connect the power cords into one cord and run that on the ceiling under a wire cover and down the wall to the outlet. When not in use, I can unplug and fold up. Each uses about .3 amps. The 3rd fan I plan on installing on the ceiling just outside the door way and facing into the bunkhouse. It can draw air from the living room, which is always more than comfortable, and push it into the bunkhouse. Not sure yet as to how to run that cord, but I do have an outlet in the corner of the dinette. I figure I can get it to there somehow. Hope 3 air circulators going will help to keep it cooler. Bed Bath and Beyond sells the Vornado's for $40 each. With a 20% off coupon, its only $32. So for around $100, I may solve my problem. It certainly can't make it worse can it?
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:34 PM   #12
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Re: Adding a second 30 Amp connection to bunkhouse (advice welcome)

I can't wait to hear how this works out...
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:47 AM   #13
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Received one fan yesterday. Now I have to figure out how to mount to ceiling. It is made for under cabinet, so the mounting bracket doesn't detach. I'm going to have to come up with a mount of some type. Project for the weekend.
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:53 AM   #14
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Received one fan yesterday. Now I have to figure out how to mount to ceiling. It is made for under cabinet, so the mounting bracket doesn't detach. I'm going to have to come up with a mount of some type. Project for the weekend.
I'm not familiar with the fan units. 120 volt? Not too heavy? Could they be adapted to track lighting attachment? That will supply power and give multiple position selection. Just remember to detach and stow the fans before heading down the road. I doubt that track lighting components would take the bouncing with fans attached. Just thinking out loud. vic




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Old 05-10-2013, 07:47 AM   #15
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I just added a 3rd A/C unit to my 365 BHS in the bunkhouse area. My problem was airflow in the bunkhouse and with 4 boys in the area, it was hot! I walked out at 1,000 dollars for the whole deal. The new unit has it own thermostat and really cools it down. It also helps with the living area also, because I shut off the vents in the bunkhouse. I have a new 20 amp cord for the 3rd A/C and I can plug into the 30 Amp or the two GFI plugs at the post. Great mod for the money!!!!!!
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:38 PM   #16
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I just added a 3rd A/C unit to my 365 BHS in the bunkhouse area. My problem was airflow in the bunkhouse and with 4 boys in the area, it was hot! I walked out at 1,000 dollars for the whole deal. The new unit has it own thermostat and really cools it down. It also helps with the living area also, because I shut off the vents in the bunkhouse. I have a new 20 amp cord for the 3rd A/C and I can plug into the 30 Amp or the two GFI plugs at the post. Great mod for the money!!!!!!
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If I could get it done for that price, I'd do it as well!
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:35 PM   #17
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I can't wait to hear how this works out...
Quick update. Since fan is made for under cabinet, I had to find a way to attach to ceiling. I attached 2 pcs. of 2 inch wide wood about 1/4 inch thick to the ceiling mount. Each pc. spans 2 bolt holes(and still turns 360.). Bolted those in place using the supplied bolts. Left enough over hang to attach to the ceiling. My plan there is to find a stud as close to the doorway opening as possible and screw one set of the wood into the stud, the use toggle bolts to attach the other piece. It would be great if another stud was exactly where I need it, but I feel sure that won't happen. As for powering the fan, I was going to splice an extension cord into the supplied cord, but decided against that. I also didn't want to plug into a second extension cord on the ceiling either. Felt it would look tacky. So, I bought a 15 foot extension cord, cut the end off of it. I took the fan apart, and removed their cord(black), and replaced it with the 15 foot white cord. I also bought some small command strips to route the wire on the ceiling and down to the plug in the bunkhouse. I may replace that with wire molding if it looks too tacky. This will give me the fan in the doorway, pushing air from the living area into the bunk house. After seeing how this works, I may buy two more for the center of the bunkhouse, one facing each set of bunks. Going down over Memorial Day, so I plan on installing that, as well as the new AC vent cover. Instead of blowing in one direction as the Jayco version does, it rotates and blows in two directions. Going to be busy that weekend. Those two projects as well as my outside LED lighting. I bought a 16 foot power extension for that. Plan is to plug into one end, run it below the lights till centered over fridge vent on side. Bring it down to the fridge vent and inside where I will make my connections, then the power supply cord will come out and plug in at the outside outlet. My RF controller eye will peek out as well so I can use my remote. Probably won't get to washing the roof and the rest of the TT, but thats what the 12 days over the 4th of July can be used for.
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