Auto leveling - Page 2

GraphiteDriver · 06-15-2018, 12:50 PM

Pics of the simultaneous work on the trailer mentioned earlier. In doing the sea trials, I lifted the full weight of the trailer with the jacks. If something was going to bend or break, I'd rather it happen in here, rather at a campground 1000 miles from home. I had the trailer fully supported by the jacks (with jack stands under the frame for safety) for about a week. During this time I did the wet bolts, spring hanger bracing, tire change, and greased the bearings.

nunyadamn · 06-15-2018, 01:38 PM

That is awesome. Very good job on all of that. How did you know you had the lippert frame? Did the kit come with all of the wiring or did you have to buy that on your own? I too have the electric stabilizers that you had. They are a bit of a cheap product. These look like a much stronger well engineered version of those. I have the 32BHDS so I am guessing our frames are very similar. I think you have the third slide where I have the two. My guess is the install would be similar. If I do take on this project, I am going to add a second gray tank while I have the belly pan off.

GraphiteDriver · 06-15-2018, 01:39 PM

Unloaded weight of the trailer is about 10,000 lbs. This includes the 370 lbs the jacks added. The system was wired directly to the battery bank, and protected by a 50 amp auto reset breaker. The 3, 6" PVC tubes in this pic, I added to store sewer lines and a rolled up outside carpet. The end caps are forged aluminum, bought from Amazon. It's the same setup that work vans have on their roofs, just in the opposite location here. I'm going to add a fourth for fishing poles. This trailer sits high enough that my approach and exit angles still allow generous ground obstacle clearance, even with the mods.

Attached is the install instructions from Lippert. They're pretty detailed, so no need for me to restate all of it here. Also, Trailer Life magazine did an article on the install earlier this year, which was helpful.

So, two or more people with the right tools, knowledge, skills and abilities could probably install the leveling in about 20 hours. If you're one person, doing it your driveway, plan on a good 30-35 hours, just to be safe. Our trailer is 38'. A shorter trailer would be a little easier. Pulling/ fishing wires and dealing with the plastic underbelly were the most difficult aspect of the install. You'll obviously need a good set of drill bits. I drilled each hole twice. Once with a small diameter bit, then with the appropriate sized bit. This made drilling much easier. I also used drilling oil so the bits didn't dull. Plan on spending a few hours staring at the trailer, figuring out the best route to run wires or install some aspect of it. Install at an RV dealer can run up to $1500. I spent about $2300 for the system and additional supplies.

All in all, very happy with it. I know the reoccurring thought with adding auto leveling is frame damage. I've had no issue with that, and I've leveled the trailer fully loaded at the 11,000 lb GVWW. I also got under the trailer after the trip and inspected every visible part of the frame for cracks or bends and found nothing. Tread on the tires still looks new after 2200 miles fully loaded, so it's tracking properly. The likelihood of frame damage is significantly more barreling down the highway at 65 mph, hitting pot holes and expansion joints and dips than raising the trailer a few inches from a static position.

Feel free to ask any questions. Hope this helps anyone considering it.

GraphiteDriver · 06-15-2018, 01:40 PM

Instructions.

GraphiteDriver · 06-15-2018, 01:44 PM

The instructions didn't seem to attach; I'll try again.

GraphiteDriver · 06-15-2018, 01:59 PM

The manual is too large to upload, but it can be found here:

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...CD_0001355.pdf

GraphiteDriver · 06-15-2018, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nunyadamn

That is awesome. Very good job on all of that. How did you know you had the lippert frame? Did the kit come with all of the wiring or did you have to buy that on your own? I too have the electric stabilizers that you had. They are a bit of a cheap product. These look like a much stronger well engineered version of those. I have the 32BHDS so I am guessing our frames are very similar. I think you have the third slide where I have the two. My guess is the install would be similar. If I do take on this project, I am going to add a second gray tank while I have the belly pan off.

I found a sticker on the frame, near the front that said Lippert that had the date the frame was made and some other mfg info.
The kit came with everything except plastic zip ties (you'll need a lot), the 50 amp breaker, and it was missing a few mounting bolts. I just bought what i needed at Ace hardware, so no problem. The breaker i got on Amazon. Our frames are probably very similar. I did a solar install and the 2000 watt inverter at the same time because routing wires was easier with a portion of the underbelly open; and I didn't want to have to open it again later.

Magnolia Tom · 06-15-2018, 03:32 PM

Awesome job! Now get out and enjoy your handy work!

GraphiteDriver · 06-15-2018, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Awesome job! Now get out and enjoy your handy work!

Thanks! Yeah, we're taking it out again next weekend

nunyadamn · 06-15-2018, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GraphiteDriver

The corrugated plastic underbelly was the biggest pain of the whole install. It was difficult and time consuming to remove and re-install. I had to remove the spare tire to roll the plastic back far enough to gain sufficient access to everything. The front jacks are mounted as far forward as possible. I mounted them in the same general area where the electric stabilizers were. Holes had to be drilled into the frame rail to bolt on the mounting brackets; 4 holes per bracket. I opted to weld the rear brackets on. Welding was actually easier. Vice grips were used to hold the brackets in place for marking the hole locations on the frame rails.

What made you want to weld the rear brackets on? You said it was easier, but did something make bolting them on in that location a pain? I was just wondering if something was in the way for the drill or if drilling through the frame was pretty painful?

GraphiteDriver · 06-15-2018, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nunyadamn

What made you want to weld the rear brackets on? You said it was easier, but did something make bolting them on in that location a pain? I was just wondering if something was in the way for the drill or if drilling through the frame was pretty painful?

On this trailer there is a steel track the runs just above the frame rail in several places. The corrugated underbelly runs between this track and the lip of the frame rail. It is this track that the underbelly is screwed into, not the frame rail itself, as on some trailers. On the rear, that steel track was in the way. I would have had to cut a section of that track out in order to accommodate the mounting mounting bolts that locate on the inside of the frame rail. I still ran two bolts in the outside of the frame rail, but welded it too just for extra strength. It can be done without welding, but I didn't want to bother with cutting that channel.

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